I didn't want to miss the second part of Advocates for Heritage Preservation's Pampanga tour so I confirmed my participation weeks in advance. This time, the areas to be explored were Mexico and San Fernando. Naturally, I didn't want to miss the food lovingly prepared by long time friend and doyenne of Pampango heritage cuisine Aching Lillian Borromeo. I had brought some tourists on a culinary tour of Pampanga to her home to savor all the delights she would lovingly prepare in her kitchen. November 26th was no different.
As early as half past four I was at the appointed rendezvous in Buendia and Makati Avenue. There I met up with Ace Burwell and Bhel Esquierdo Asinas. Later on we were joined by Mike Asinas (our San Pablo host) and his friend Ed and Alice deVera Vasquez. We waited a little longer until Del Nuqui arrived and we were off to Pampanga. This time it was Johnson Bernardo on the steering wheel.
 |
| St Monica's relic |
We made a roundabout route by exiting on the Mexico ramp along the North Luzon Expressway so we had to back-track through wide open expanses of rice fields and quaint communities around Mt. Arayat until we reached Sta. Monica church. Located 71 km north of Manila, Mexico has had many changes over the years. One such "victim" of this change is the church. Fortunately, it was not through human intervention or neglect that caused the destruction but an earthquake in July 19, 1880. The church was badly damaged and never restored. The original belfry and convent, however, remained intact.
 |
| original belfry |
The belfry now is in a fragile state; parts of it crumbling and so, out of sheer necessity a carbon copy is being constructed a few shorts steps to the left of the church. The tourism office of the town of Mexico was on hand to orient and give and audio-visual presentation while we were there. But the bonus was we, as guests, were given permission to enter the cloister of the Benedictine convent. This allowed for some, a clearer understanding of the contemplative order. Silence and introspection are necessary to drown out ambient noise in order to hear the voice of God in praise and adoration.
 |
| Old photos of Sta. Monica |
It was a cloudy (rainy?) day so the next stop wasn't a walk in the park. The Hizon ancestral home was a welcome discovery despite the rains. I learned that the upkeep and maintenance of the home is currently being undertaken by Dita Sandico Ong. Famous for her extensive use of native diaphanous material in barong jusi and pina fibers which she fashions into wraps and shawls, tops and skirts the house sits as a testament to her artistic background in fashion. I have, on occasion, brought guests to her atelier in Wilson street, Greenhills. This was before she closed shop and moved to somewhere in New Manila.
This ancestral home sits on a huge lot surrounded by fruit trees and has a kamalig ( rice warehouse) at the back of the house. Her silong (ground level quarters) has been converted into a costume exhibit area where some of the AHP members tried on various head gear and shawls for photo ops. I stayed in the upper level to take photos of the well-appointed home where the callado (carved wooden valences indicated the initials of the former owners and the date in which the home was built (1927). The dining area featured huge plateras (serving trays) and pewter candelabras, a punkah ( indian inspired, manually operated fanning mechanism) and a collection of deer antler on the wall.
The Kusina (kitchen) was just as huge. the prepping table dominated the space with a paminggalan (food storage) on the side wall. The kusinilyas (open fire pit/stoves) were on the far end complete with palayok (earthenware pots) and banga (earthenware water jar) were by the banggera (dish rack). Beyond it was the azotea (rear balcony) where the banyo and latrina (bath and toilets, literally) were located.
 |
| the undisputed Queen of Pampango heritage cuisine |
The piece de resistance of this trip was a lunch stop at the home of Aching Lillian Borromeo. Her usual, bubbly self, Aching Lillian welcomed us into her improvised kitchen cum exhibit/demo area. This time around, I noticed a lot of improvements in her compound. For one, there is now an upper floor in the kitchen. It used to be just a wide open fenced in area in the bakuran (garden area) with her century old cooking utensils within easy reach of curious onlookers and guests. We were given cucumber flavored welcome drinks to begin with then the cooking demo was underway. Tito Encarnacion (our dear founder/ motivator/influencer) introduced Aching Lillian to the other guests and the panecillos de San Nicholas (St. Nicholas cookies) demonstration took on a comical turn when she was assisted by Maestro Jose Benigno Salvador and Ace Burwell. Jerry Punzalan Sagmit also did a demonstration of another version of empanada. This was unlike the empanada kaliskis (scaly empanada) of Malolos. This empanada uses a pillowy soft dough that Jerry lovingly crimps by hand using a dying technique and is baked in the oven.
 |
| Jerry Punzalan Sagmit preparing heritage empanada |
Lunch was one for the books! Pako (edible fern) salad, chicharon (crispy pork rind) from Guagua, spring rolls, okoy na kalabasa (squash fritters with shrimps), steamed fish, embotido (meat roll), pork belly), chicken roulade...etc., etc. The food went on and on. I've forgotten some of the viands prepared. To sum it all up, there were 16 of them. I was too full to recall all of them but it was capped off with a dessert of tibok-tibok (carabao milk infused panacotta-like dessrt). After that, bedlam ensued when everybody wanted their photos taken with Aching Lillian and those who bought the second edition of her recipe book of heirloom recipes wanted their copies signed. I have the first edition with her signature on it but i'm looking forward to get the re-print because this one has me in one of the photos. Gotta get my second copy.
 |
| Aching Lillian Borromeo, Maestro Jose Benigno Salvador, Ace Burwell |
Then it was off to their second stop in San Fernando which I wasn't able to go to. I had to be dropped off at the bus station in Robinson's Mall in San Fernando for my trip to Bataan so I could judge the Pawikan Festival the next day....
 |
| Panecillos de San Nicholas mould |
No comments:
Post a Comment