PULO NG IILAN (PULILAN)

Mention Pulilan to friends and family and you mostly get a blank reaction from them. This  town isn't really top of mind when it comes to prime tourist destinations and fun havens. Yet, this may come as a surprise to people looking for a quick weekend get away or a road trip on your spare time.

AHP members viewing the doll house collection

Nestled on the northern tip in the province of Bulacan, Pulilan is located 46 kilometers north of Manila and is about a two and a half to three hour drive depending on weather conditions and traffic along the North Luzon Expressway. It is bordered on the north by Apalit, Pampanga, on the west by Calumpit, Bulacan, on the south by Plaridel, Bulacan and on the east by Baliuag, Bulacan. 

painted carabao heads in the museum

The name of Pulilan is derived from the contraction of three words ( see title). The area was formerly inhabited by a select few families whose main occupation was agriculture owing to its rich, fertile soil and abundant source of irrigation. The Hagonoy estuary,  Angat river and parts of Candaba swamp provide ample sources of clean water that flood the town during the monsoons and allow for the growth of wooded areas and plantations of rice and other produce.

Pulilan traces its roots back to a glorious past of civilized polities with a structured hierarchy and cultured  society. The oldest recorded reference to Pulilan's existence is its mention in the Laguna Copperplate (the artifact is now at the National Museum). In the inscription, it mentions the Lord Kasumuran of Puliran was present at the emancipation of Namwaran and his heirs from slavery after paying for a debt of gold to chief Dewata.

As part of the Advocates for Heritage Preservation's first tour for the year, interested members motored up to Pulilan on the 27th of January, 2018.  With the help of Pulilan's tourism office and individual initiatives of Andrew Alto de Guzman, Jose Benigno Salvador,  Tito Encarnacion, et. al., the tour of Pulilan was, arguably, one of the more memorable trips we've taken.

ITINERARY:

1. CASA BALBINA -  Our rendezvous for the convoy was at this privately owned ancestral home.  On that rainy morning, we were treated to hot steaming coffee  and arroz caldo and a bun that had dulce de leche in its indented center. The historical marker doesn't say much. But we were warmly welcomed by Ms Malou who is one of the progeny of the Castro family. Lovingly restored by the heirs, the home boasts of the largest balconaje (veranda) and at least a hectare planted to Mango trees in its backyard. Painted ceilings, a baby grand in the sala, four poster beds and framed baro in canamazo adorn the interiors of this jewel of an ancestral home. They have opened the home for private gatherings on a select basis. 

                                     

2. MUSEO DE PULILAN - 

Formerly a Gabaldon used for public school education, the local government deemed it necessary to convert the building into a mixed use facility to preserve its structure. Now housing a courtroom for small claims and the museum of Pulilan, the building has been divided into sections featuring artifacts from the town's glorious history, contemporary art, the contributions of famous sons of Pulilan and their contribution to society and Philippine history.

The building has a view deck on the third floor annex housing the museum overlooking the town plaza and local government buildings and a view of the church.

3. MUSEO SAN ISIDRO - an adjacent facility featuring the town's religious life,  the museum is a repository of religious images and ecclesiastic art culled over centuries of worship of the locals. The convento boasts of the largest and widest doors of any of its kind in the country*(Martin Imperial Tinio)

4. SAN YSIDRO LABRADOR PARISH AND CAMPO SANTO

Father Vicente de Villamanzaro, an Agustinian friar declared the settlement of the town of Pulilan on the 20th of January 1796. The church was built and dedicated to St. Isidore the  Farmer and his wife Sta. Maria de la Cabeza  painting of which may be seen at the convento.

The church was damaged in the 3-June , 1863 and 19- July 1880 earthquakes and was rebuilt by Father Miguel de Celis. The facade is divided by pilasters into a main rectangle and topped by a triangular pediment with the Augustinian seal. On the left side is a three tiered belfry that has a balustrade on the second level. The church has the original cemetery behind the  belfry.*(Benjamin Locsin Layug; Philippine Churches, 2007)

The saint and his wife are honored during the town fiesta on the 15th of May, where a parade of carabaos are trained to kneel in front of the church of St, Isidore as thanks for the blessings of abundant harvest.

5. HERITAGE DOLL MUSEUM AND PULILAN BUTTERFLY HAVEN

The ancestral mansion has been converted into a multi facility area where one can view historical dioramas in its Doll Museum,

Commune with nature in its Butterfly Haven or  

pique your interest in local weaves where you can purchase hand woven products. There's also a resort behind the butterfly haven with a free-form pool that looked inviting to jump into.

6. KALIPAYAN NATURAL FARM

Lunch was al fresco at this organic farm. The local government of Pulilan wanted to strike a healthy balance between an industrial community and an agricultural one, taking great advantage of what the area has to offer- its rich arable land (with kudos to the Mayor). Ergo, its enterprising owner decided to bring back age old traditions in farming with no pesticides, herbicides and no tilling and chemical fertilizers. 

Honestly, I was only able to experience the menudo they served and the veggies. All the food disappeared faster than you can say "Kalipayan". I enjoyed the halo-halo dessert too. Maybe a second trip won't be too far into the future.

7. CASA SAN FRANCISCO HERITAGE HOUSE - a multi function gallery, events venue or plainly a chillax place for groups and families, the restored mansion boasts of a who's who collection of objets d'art.  AHP members' eyes meandering into the halls of this huge converted home bulged with delight over a fabulous collection of Imaos, Saprids and Tolentinos. 

The piece d' resistance for me was a 16-seater  glass-topped dining table with bas relief from Abdulamari Imao.

8. CAFE PULILAN ART GALLERY - Next door to the San Francisco home is a nondescript cafe that can accommodate at least 30 patrons. This unassuming cafe also sells Pulilan Golden Rice in small packs for take-away. The walls are mounted also with artwork by various visual artists.

9. CASANOVA-AGUIRRE HERITAGE HOUSE- Unfortunately, on this day of our visit, the owners of the mansion had a family emergency to deal with so we were not able to take a tour of this beautiful ancestral home. Nonetheless, we took photos of the exterior with its gracefuliron grill work and colonnade and gabled roof. a fountain and pockets of seating areas dot the wide expanse of garden

10. CARINDERIA NI ENTENG - as hunger pangs for merienda (afternoon snack) was beginning to set in, we dropped by this open air carinderia (eatery). We were treated to cups of guinataan'g halo-halo (soupy coconut creamsnack) which was thick and creamy with plenty of  kamote (sweet potato) and saging na saba (banana).

11. PASALUBONG CENTER-  Unfortunately, I have no photos of the shop as I was busy procuring the coffee table book on Pulilan which is a treasure trove on information. The store has all sorts of delicacies from Pulilan and neighboring towns. It is situated along the highway facing a picturesque view of the river.

As a side note, there is an old home beside the Carinderia ni Enteng that opened its doors to some of us who passed by. The home is also more than a hundred years old and is quaint amidst flourishing bougainvilleas and greenery. There is also a small chapel across the Carinderia that is dedicated to the (said to be) miraculous image of the Nstro. Sr. de la Paciencia. From the closed iron grill doorway of the chapel one (if you were sensitive enough) could feel the energy emanating from the religious image. 

AHP members went back to the vans with bags of delicious Bulacan products and snacks and went home fully sated and happy. It was one long, wet, fun-filled day!

AHP TRACING BONIFACIO'S END

The site of the Tejeros Convention

It took me a while to write this entry. For one, I wanted to present a balanced view of events as a historian. I also wanted to ask the opinion of friends who happen to be related to the main protagonists of this narrative so that I understand where the characters stand and what their point of view would be. It's. never easy writing an entry with a historical background so I will try to present them in such a way that you, yes YOU, my dear readers can decide and analyze for yourself the reasons why things happened as they did.

The Advocates for Heritage Preservation family went to re-visit the province of Cavite. It was an early start for the AHP caravan as we had a lot of ground to cover since Cavite is a huge province. At seven in the morning, we were at the site of  where the Tejeros Convention was held. Looming large at the site is a re-imagined Spanish Colonial influenced multi-purpose building that serves as a meeting/events/convention/performance art venue. Sadly, the original gargantuan Iberian style  Casa -Hacienda residence where the Magdalo and Magdiwang factions met is long gone. The tunnel that leads to the river bank, however, remains. The city government of Cavite has installed a historical marker to signify the importance of the locale.

As a refresher, on the 22nd of March 1897, the Magdalo and Magdiwang factions of the Katipunan met at Tejeros, a barrio of San Francisco de Malabon,  to iron out kinks in the Katipunan leadership. The Magdalo council was under Emilio Aguinaldo's leadership while The Magdiwang Council was headed by Andres Bonifacio. At the time of the meeting, Aguinaldo was on the front line of a campaign against the Spaniards in Pasong Santol in Imus. Bonifacio and his supporters had moved to Tejeros specifically to settle an issue on who was to be supreme leader of the revolutionary government. As in their first meeting in Imus, there was no clear direction of the meeting. Purportedly, the meeting in Tejeros was to discuss a line of defense for the province of Cavite against the Spanish forces. However, Bonifacio was prevailed upon by some members of the convention to preside over an election of officers of the Supreme Council under whose banner both the Magdiwang and Magdalo factions were fighting.

Pinagbarilan site, Indang, Cavite

The election result was uninspiring for Andres Bonifacio as he ended up being elected Director of the Interior. The results ended up thus: 

President	Emilio Aguinaldo
Vice-President	Mariano Trias
Captain-General	Artemio Ricarte
Director of War	Emiliano Riego de Dios
Director of the Interior	Andres Bonifacio

The Supremo must have taken the results badly since it was obvious he had been ousted from power as even the Magdiwangs did not elect him as president. To rub the proverbial salt into Bonifacio's wounded ego, Daniel Tirona moved that since Bonifacio was not "educated"*, a lawyer must be in charge of Interior affairs and suggested Jose del Rosario for the position.  Resident AHP mentor and SME (subject matter expert) Martin Imperial Tinio quashes the oft-accepted notion that Bonifacio was a complete boor. According to Sr. Tinio, Bonifacio did receive a proper education and was  actually fluent in French, being able to read and translate works of some of the French liberalists and free thinkers of their time. So simplifying the squabble between factions into a class struggle was just not the case.

Addel de Dios Lapira, Myself, Pheeyah Salones, Bhel Ezquierdo Asinas, Jocelyn Cabrieto, Vica Tigno, Jerry Piunzalan Sagmit photo by Addel de Dios Lapira

This did not sit well with Bonifacio and he declared the election null and void and left in a huff with his men to establish a front away from the Magdalo faction. The next day, Crispulo Aguinaldo informed Emilio that he had been elected president and prevailed upon his brother, Emilio to proceed to Santa Cruz de Malabon (now Tanza) for the oath taking. Emilio left the front lines to take his oath of office as President upon the assurance that Crispulo will defend it until his last breath . Crispulo did as promised. They were defeated in Imus by the Spaniards.

make-shift stockade in Naic Elementary School where the Bonifacio brothers were imprisoned

In the meantime, Bonifacio and 45 of his men returned to Tejeros where they drew up the Acta de Tejeros. In the document they stated their reasons why they can not accept the results of the previous elections and they believed that they had been railroaded to accept a lesser role in the revolutionary government. They then proceeded to Naik to be as far away as possible from Agunaldo's supporters. Bonifacio and his men drew up another document, the Acta de Naic or Naik Military Agreement, in which they stated the need to establish another government free of and independent from the one established at Tejeros. This document was also signed by Artemio Ricarte, Pio del Pilar and Severino delas Alas.

Nstra. Sra. de la Asuncion, Maragondon, Cavite

On his part, having learned of the Supremo's disgusto over alleged rigged elections (sound familiar?), Aguinaldo sent a small delegation to salve Bonifacio's ego and convince him to go back to the fold and accept the results of the election. Seething in anger, Bonifacio refuses Aguinaldo's reconciliatory gesture and refuses to work under Aguinaldo's leadership. The latter then orders the arrest of Bonifacio and his men for treason under the new government. Aguinaldo's men pursues the ragtag group of Bonifacio until they reach the hilly area now known as Indang, Cavite where the Supremo's Pinagbarilan monument now stands. There, they capture the brothers Andres and Procopio after a skirmish which renders both wounded and defenseless. The brothers are kept in a pantry converted into a stockade where they continue to bleed profusely from wounds inflicted by the arresting soldiers. From Naic, the prisoners are moved to Maragondon where they await trial at a holding room at the Assumption Church temporarily converted into the military headquarters of the supreme command. Tried by a military junta in a nearby house and found guilty of treason, the Supremo and his brother are led to Mount Nagpatong, near Mount Buntis where both are excuted on May 10, 1897. It is still unclear whether Procopio was barely conscious or was in fact already dead when they reached Nagpatong. Bonifacio was believed to have been hacked to death. in which case, both had met their bloody end.

Bonifacio Monument in Mount Nagpatong, Maragondon, Cavite

The AHP Cavite Tour Part 2 was ably organized by Bhel Ezquierdo Asinas assisted by daughter Bea Asinas and her partner with approval from AHP founder Tito Encarnacion. Johnson Bernardo took care of over all arrangements of the transportation.  Our thanks also goes to the tourism offices of the local governments of Indang, Naic, Maragondon, Cavite. The next heritage tour initiated by Tito Encarnacion is on the 27th of January, 2018 in Pulilan, Bulacan... Join in on the fun and learning!

The AHP Family

INDIGENOUS ATTIRE (AHP PARTY 2)

the AHP family by Uan Latayan*

When the Advocates for Heritage Preservation (AHP) family decide to have a party, it is normally done with grace and aplomb! Our second year as an advocacy group was no different since it was held in the Intramuros area at Barbara's restaurant. No one actually said it was going to be a dressed up dinner. It was never announced. However, since all of the members are heritage advocates, those who decided to attend the Christmas Party came dressed to the nines in Filipiniana outfits.

Dennis Castanos, Gema Gonzales, Lito Ligon, myself,  Annie Obeya, Johnson Bernardo, Mafe Dajalos, Alice deVera Vasquez, Aye and Tito Encarnacion. Photo by Annie Grace Nicandro Obeya*

Now let me clarify things, since the proclamation of the Indigenous Peoples' Rights Act of 1997, indigenous communities have been promoting the use of their attire for the right reasons. They disdain the term indigenous costume, which has a negative connotation or perception among those who do not hail from their community. And they are right! Costume denotes pretense... fun! what they wear on a daily basis is an indication of their true identity. Their clothes are literally and figuratively, the very fiber (pun intended) of who they are as Filipinos. What they wear is almost sacred to them.

all smiles... photo by Ofie Palma*

So when the AHP holds a party, we showcase Filipiniana outfits to its truest, most basic form without the frivolity nor the freedom to interpret indigenous attire according to our whims. Yes we do have fun and we make it a point to do so without disparagiing these clothes like some do in festivals and in street dancing competitions.

family portrait by Lito Ligon*

The AHP Christmas Party set another record as far as attendance was concerned. Almost a hundred members were present at the buffet dinner organized by no less than AHP founder Tito Encarnacion, assisted by Fritzie Ramos and Aizah Basuel. To make the party more exciting, some members donated fabulous prizes for the raffle. Among the favored raffle prizes were bags and water bottles (from Bhel Esquierdo Asinas) rare books (Jose Benigno Salvador, Gema Gonzales, Addel de Dios Lapira), commemorative coins (Lito Ligon), gift items (Annie Obeya), valuable paintings (Noel Panaligan, Noel Bueza, Joel Aldor and another lady artist whose name I can not recall).

photo by Fritzie Ramos*

The Titas of AHP did not disappoint! Pheeyah Salones came as a Carnival Queen complete with tiara. Bhel Asinas costume in baro't saya came complete with diken and palayok. Lea Amante Villapando's full T'boli attire was encrusted in beads. Vica Tigno, Maricar Anatalio were in Ifugao dress. Febe Sevilla was in Ifugao dress with a pasiking to boot. Some of the ladies came in patadyong and Maria Claras. Some came in mestiza dress and terno. All the women came dressed to the hilt. Jocelyn Cabreito was in a glittering terno. Gema Gonzales was in a pineapple fiber shawl wrap. Fritzie Ramos was in  Maria Clara with a hand-painted panuelo.

Friends and family. Photo by Mafe Dajalos*

The men were not to be ignored, however. Jigs Medina came in a rajah outfit in turquoise and gold brocade complete with a fez. Dennis Roland S. Castanos was dressed as General Luna in rayadillo. Addel de dios Lapira was in a barong and 18th century gilded salakot and an alampay. Lito Ligon was a gobernadorcillo in a top hat and baston de mando. Ace Burwell sported a sarimanok headdress on his head. Dominic Benedict Santos-Viola Faustino was a regal southern datu. The San Pablo contigent composed of tito Naning Esguerra, Earl Esguerra, Mark Fule, Erico Brion Gapangada, Faviola Torres Hidalgo and Mike Asinas were all dapper in their barong tagalog and black trousers - so elegant! Pio and Elma Luistro were in updated his and hers Filipino attire with top hat for him and parasol for her.

The gentlemen of AHP. Photo by Allan Pardilla Martinez*

The big winners for the evening were Ness Sembrero who won a Noel Bueza painting of koi in a pond. Ace Burwell won two paintings one by Noel Panaligan of a street scene and another was a landscape by a Malolos artist donated by Jose Benigno Salvador. Joel Aldor's donation of  a ceramic plate with a Madonna and child done by National Artist Jose Joya went to the gregarious MC, Jose Benigno Salvador. I actually went home with nothing but I had a great time. Let's wait for next year, I may actually take home a prize...

Gema Gonzales, Ferdi Bolislis, myself, Dennis CAstanos, Jogs Medina, Jose Benigno Salvador, Febe Sevilla. Photo by Allan Pardilla Martinez*

Thank you to those donors who I have not been able to mention, I may have forgotten your names but it doesn't mean your generosity this Christmas season went unnoticed. Meantime,  enjoy what remains of this wonderful time and have a brilliant 2018!!!

Myself, Bhel Esquierdo Asinas, Dominic Viola Faustino. Photo by Febe Sevilla*

DRESSING UP OUR LADY

Elaborately embroidered cape of the Sorrowful Mother

I can not let October pass without paying homage to our Blessed Mother.I happened to be on tour assignment at the time and experienced this exhibit by chance. Sometimes I do get lucky when I'm working. The tour group I was with was gob-smacked at this assemblage of Marian images specifically focused on the Sorrowful Mother- our Mater Dolorosa.

Our Lady of Lasalette

Escultura Religiosas Filipinas is an online group that was established in 2007.  Their main aim is to assemble enthusiasts who have a deep affection for religious images and to share expertise on the maiantenance and upkeep of their prized possession.  Now on its tenth year, this group of devotees put their resources together in mounting a special exhibit focusing on the various incarnations of Our Lady centering on the Dolorosa. The exhibit opened on the 21st of September and lasted until the 1st of October just in time for the month of the Holy Rosary.

Mater Dolorosa la Macarena

The images were presented in detailed fashion. No expense was spared in the execution of the exhibit. The various tableau for each image were festooned with flowers both fresh and artificial. Silver candelabras and "ramilletes" which are bas relief of flowers embossed on silver plates and used as adornment for altars. However, it was the vestments that stood out in the curating of the exhibit.(not to forget the precious stones) that encrusted the  golden crowns and "potencias" on the virgins' heads and the daggers in her heart.

San Agustin's convento proved to be a fitting venue to showcase. The halls of the monastery with its high ceilings were more than enough to accommodate the canopies of some of the images as well as the carozas included in the collection. the hallways were also wide enough to fit in the magnificently embroidered cape done in "inuod" style (raised embroidery in satin stitch).

The older images were obviously in ivory. Some of the statues were made in wood but done in ivory finish (encarnado). I can discern the hand of Willie Layug in  some of the images that are more contemporary. I find that I have a predilection for embroidery done in gold thread. I think because gold thread is hard to come by these days. Nevertheless, even the vestments embroidered in silk thread must have cost a pretty penny.

There's still a few more hours before the month of October ends. As I continue with my daily rosary to honor the Blessed Virgin Mary, I look at these photos for inspiration. I hope you, my dear readers, realize that the rosary may be prayed anywhere, at any time of the day, for any purpose whatsoever with or  without these  meticulously designed religious images. I'm just glad, though, that centuries of our devotion to our Mother has not waned...