Mention Pulilan to friends and family and you mostly get a blank reaction from them. This town isn't really top of mind when it comes to prime tourist destinations and fun havens. Yet, this may come as a surprise to people looking for a quick weekend get away or a road trip on your spare time.
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| AHP members viewing the doll house collection |
Nestled on the northern tip in the province of Bulacan, Pulilan is located 46 kilometers north of Manila and is about a two and a half to three hour drive depending on weather conditions and traffic along the North Luzon Expressway. It is bordered on the north by Apalit, Pampanga, on the west by Calumpit, Bulacan, on the south by Plaridel, Bulacan and on the east by Baliuag, Bulacan.
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| painted carabao heads in the museum |
The name of Pulilan is derived from the contraction of three words ( see title). The area was formerly inhabited by a select few families whose main occupation was agriculture owing to its rich, fertile soil and abundant source of irrigation. The Hagonoy estuary, Angat river and parts of Candaba swamp provide ample sources of clean water that flood the town during the monsoons and allow for the growth of wooded areas and plantations of rice and other produce.
Pulilan traces its roots back to a glorious past of civilized polities with a structured hierarchy and cultured society. The oldest recorded reference to Pulilan's existence is its mention in the Laguna Copperplate (the artifact is now at the National Museum). In the inscription, it mentions the Lord Kasumuran of Puliran was present at the emancipation of Namwaran and his heirs from slavery after paying for a debt of gold to chief Dewata.
As part of the Advocates for Heritage Preservation's first tour for the year, interested members motored up to Pulilan on the 27th of January, 2018. With the help of Pulilan's tourism office and individual initiatives of Andrew Alto de Guzman, Jose Benigno Salvador, Tito Encarnacion, et. al., the tour of Pulilan was, arguably, one of the more memorable trips we've taken.
ITINERARY:
1. CASA BALBINA - Our rendezvous for the convoy was at this privately owned ancestral home. On that rainy morning, we were treated to hot steaming coffee and arroz caldo and a bun that had dulce de leche in its indented center. The historical marker doesn't say much. But we were warmly welcomed by Ms Malou who is one of the progeny of the Castro family. Lovingly restored by the heirs, the home boasts of the largest balconaje (veranda) and at least a hectare planted to Mango trees in its backyard. Painted ceilings, a baby grand in the sala, four poster beds and framed baro in canamazo adorn the interiors of this jewel of an ancestral home. They have opened the home for private gatherings on a select basis.
Formerly a Gabaldon used for public school education, the local government deemed it necessary to convert the building into a mixed use facility to preserve its structure. Now housing a courtroom for small claims and the museum of Pulilan, the building has been divided into sections featuring artifacts from the town's glorious history, contemporary art, the contributions of famous sons of Pulilan and their contribution to society and Philippine history.
The building has a view deck on the third floor annex housing the museum overlooking the town plaza and local government buildings and a view of the church.
The church was damaged in the 3-June , 1863 and 19- July 1880 earthquakes and was rebuilt by Father Miguel de Celis. The facade is divided by pilasters into a main rectangle and topped by a triangular pediment with the Augustinian seal. On the left side is a three tiered belfry that has a balustrade on the second level. The church has the original cemetery behind the belfry.*(Benjamin Locsin Layug; Philippine Churches, 2007)
The saint and his wife are honored during the town fiesta on the 15th of May, where a parade of carabaos are trained to kneel in front of the church of St, Isidore as thanks for the blessings of abundant harvest.
5. HERITAGE DOLL MUSEUM AND PULILAN BUTTERFLY HAVEN
The ancestral mansion has been converted into a multi facility area where one can view historical dioramas in its Doll Museum,
Commune with nature in its Butterfly Haven or
pique your interest in local weaves where you can purchase hand woven products. There's also a resort behind the butterfly haven with a free-form pool that looked inviting to jump into.
6. KALIPAYAN NATURAL FARM
Lunch was al fresco at this organic farm. The local government of Pulilan wanted to strike a healthy balance between an industrial community and an agricultural one, taking great advantage of what the area has to offer- its rich arable land (with kudos to the Mayor). Ergo, its enterprising owner decided to bring back age old traditions in farming with no pesticides, herbicides and no tilling and chemical fertilizers.
Honestly, I was only able to experience the menudo they served and the veggies. All the food disappeared faster than you can say "Kalipayan". I enjoyed the halo-halo dessert too. Maybe a second trip won't be too far into the future.
7. CASA SAN FRANCISCO HERITAGE HOUSE - a multi function gallery, events venue or plainly a chillax place for groups and families, the restored mansion boasts of a who's who collection of objets d'art. AHP members' eyes meandering into the halls of this huge converted home bulged with delight over a fabulous collection of Imaos, Saprids and Tolentinos.
The piece d' resistance for me was a 16-seater glass-topped dining table with bas relief from Abdulamari Imao.
9. CASANOVA-AGUIRRE HERITAGE HOUSE- Unfortunately, on this day of our visit, the owners of the mansion had a family emergency to deal with so we were not able to take a tour of this beautiful ancestral home. Nonetheless, we took photos of the exterior with its gracefuliron grill work and colonnade and gabled roof. a fountain and pockets of seating areas dot the wide expanse of garden
10. CARINDERIA NI ENTENG - as hunger pangs for merienda (afternoon snack) was beginning to set in, we dropped by this open air carinderia (eatery). We were treated to cups of guinataan'g halo-halo (soupy coconut creamsnack) which was thick and creamy with plenty of kamote (sweet potato) and saging na saba (banana).
11. PASALUBONG CENTER- Unfortunately, I have no photos of the shop as I was busy procuring the coffee table book on Pulilan which is a treasure trove on information. The store has all sorts of delicacies from Pulilan and neighboring towns. It is situated along the highway facing a picturesque view of the river.
As a side note, there is an old home beside the Carinderia ni Enteng that opened its doors to some of us who passed by. The home is also more than a hundred years old and is quaint amidst flourishing bougainvilleas and greenery. There is also a small chapel across the Carinderia that is dedicated to the (said to be) miraculous image of the Nstro. Sr. de la Paciencia. From the closed iron grill doorway of the chapel one (if you were sensitive enough) could feel the energy emanating from the religious image.
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