Pasay City In Its Perfect Past

I went to school in Malate. Like it or not, a majority of my classmates then would come from the neighboring cities of Paranaque or San Andres or Nichols, but a good number lived in Pasay City. So it came as no surprise to me when the AHP Family had a walking tour of Pasay City that our dear friends from the Advocates for Heritage Preservation got a glimpse of Pasay's glorious past.

Raffi Chavez organized the  AHP Pasay Tour

My pick up point was at Buendia Petron Station at supposedly 5:30 in the morning. Surprise! Some participants were late...seriously, people? In any case we got to the Cuneta Astrodome at 6 a.m. and we waited a while as the venue was still closed. (Does it still surprise me? Yes!) The other vans started trickling at the parking area by half past six and some participants came in their own private vehicles.

Now, I'm familiar with the Cuneta Astrodome. I haven't been in it, but I know it's location. As a teener, my friends from the volleyball team would hang out there on weekends as there used to be a playground in the area equipped with a volleyball and basketball court. In nearby Libertad and Roxas Boulevard was the Lozada Swimming pool where I learned to swim one summer. That area long gone now, has been replaced by a huge gymnasium and the compound of workers of the US Embassy (strictly guarded 24x7).

So while waiting for the key officers of Pasay's tourism office, we were offered some drinks and coffee and piping hot pan de sal whilst the butter filling melted inside the buns. I went on to check out the brochure/vicinity map that the office usually hands out to guests. There are some points in their backgrounder that perplex me:  1) that their city is named after Princess Pasay daughter of Rajah Soliman, and 2) the city was established around the 1870s. These two points need to be researched on. I have earlier on believed in another story, one taken from the book on Sta. Ana where the Rajah of Namayan sires an illegitimate daughter by a Bornean slave and upon his death he bequeaths a parcel of land to his illegitimate daughter. The name of the city takes its name after her. And 2, that being the case, then Pasay would have been established much earlier on as it would have been a part of the arabales that was to be settled in by Spanish friars for their missionary work. The extent of Namayan Kingdom was so vast it covered the areas as far south as what is now known as Bay in Laguna and to the west in Manila Bay. The seat of its government was in Sta. Ana de Sapa.

In any case after the introduction of Pasay City tourism office have been made, the story of Pasay City progresses. During the Spanish colonial period, the Franciscans made their way to Pasay. But the Franciscans went further south towards Paete and Pakil. Eventually, in 1727, the Augustinians started evangelizing the locals and prominent families began donating to the church for "a room in heaven" (talk about pre-selling). On her deathbed, it was said that Pasay donated the land she owned to the Augustinians and her vast land came under the friar estates of which the prominent families could purchase as well. It was at this time that Pasay's name was changed to Pineda, after Don Cornelio Pineda, a Spanish horticulturist who frequented the area collecting a native plant with an exotic aroma called Basaw. By 1862, upon the request of prominent families in Pasay, the petition to have a self governing community was granted by civil and ecclesiastical authorities, thus Pasay became a pueblo.

2680 F B Harrison compound

During the waning Spanish period, America had acquired the Philippines as a colony and subjugation of the Filipino insurrectos (rebels) by the American forces was the main thrust of Commodore George Dewey's campaign. He was stationed in HongKong. Eventually Dewey would be immortalized with the main road connecting Intramuros to  Pasay carrying his name. Avenida Mexico was named after William Howard Taft. By 1902, the Americans buckled down to teaching Filipinos the rudiments of Democracy. They instituted reforms, built schools, public utilities, healthcare institutions, roads, artesian wells and recreational facilities. Friar estates gave way to subdivisions. 

 After WWII's chaos subsided, Pasay was burned to the ground. President Sergio Osmena dissolved the local governments of Manila and placed its jurisdiction under the province of Rizal. Ignacio Santos Diaz filed for a petition to change pasay's status from a town into a city. The bill was signed by President Manuel Roxas on June 21, 1947.  Congressman Eulogio Rodriguez filed a bill to revert to the city's original name. The bill was signed on May 31, 1950 by President Elpidio Quirino , who was once a resident of Pasay as well.  It was at this time that Pasay was trying to rebuild it former glory from the ashes of war. The Manila Polo Club was built  on the land now occupied by the Cuneta Astrodome. Francis Burton Harrison settled along the coastline on Dewey boulevard. The American consular offices were right next to his home. US embassy personnel were housed in a row of apartments done in early Americana style - two great examples of which are the Wilson compound and what is now the Henry boutique hotel. 

The Henry Hotel Manila

By the late 1960's, Pasay had gained notoriety as nightclub row. But Mrs. Imelda Marcos had become increasingly involved in Marcos' state of affairs. She reclaimed part of the Manila Bay and started her "edifice complex" in the area, Thus, on 8 September, 1969 the Cultural Center of the Philippines was inaugurated. After that, the Folk Arts Theater  for the Miss Universe Pageant in 1974, the Philippine Center for International Trade Exhiibits (PHILCITE and which is now Starcity), the Philippine International Convention Center (PICC), the Westin Philippine Plaza (now Sofitel Hotel), The Coconut Palace and the notorious Manila Film Center (MFC). All these buildings have become icons of modern Philippine Architecture.

Philippine School for the Deaf

Our Pasay visit consisted of the following site visits:

The Philippine School for the Deaf - started in 1907 by Dr  David P. Barrows, the American Director for Education for the Philippines. He invited teacher Delia Delight Rice to tsart the school with 3 pupils: 2 deaf and 1 blind. From Ermita, they transferred to its current location to a two-storey semi concrete building said to have been donated by an American Lady.

Gallery 11/13 -  located at 2680 F B Harrison Street, Gallery  11 is an unpretentious home/lifestyle store of one-of-a-kind, unique items. Owned and operated by Eric Paras, the store sells flat ware, dinner ware, candelabras, chandelier, decorative vases, coffee table and other furniture that one will instanly fall in love with.

Jojie Lloren's Atelier - Haute coutoure designer and grand prize winner of an international competition in Paris, France does his best designs at his atelier within the Henry Hotel's compound. To match the post colonial American structures of the apartments in the area, Jojie's studio is decked out in retro period furniture evocative of the 50's. Too bad he wasn't around when we visited.

Galleria Duemilla - Perhaps, the longest running art gallery in the Metro, Galleria Duemilla is Syvana Diaz' own home cum art storage/gallery. Acollector and art impressario, Sylvana is wife to visual artist Ramon Diaz (brother of Ms Gloria Diaz and mother to celebrity/model/entrepreneur Illyach Diaz.

Tomas Mapua home - Thomas Mapua was an architect, educator, and businessman. He was the first registered professional  architect of the Philippines and was responsible for the foundation of the Mapua Institute of Technology. He created a lovely eclectic style home with early Americana, Philippine and oriental touches. The much lived in home was opened specifically for the enjoyment and admiration of the AHP Family. As a sign of respect for the family, i refrained from taking photos as they have maintained their privacy for years.

AHP family having fun

Pablo Antonio home - Pablo Sebero Antonio Sr.  was born in Binondo on January 25, 1901. Orphaned at the age at 12, He supported himself in order to continue his high school studies at night. he studied architecture at Mapua School of Technology but had to drop out of school. Ramon Arevalo architect in charge of the Legislative Building, funded his studies at the University of London; a five year course which Antonio finished in three years. Pablo Antonio is foremost proponent of Philippine modern architecture for this he was awarded as a National Artist for Architecture. His private home is an oasis in the small busy streets of Pasay now converted into a by appointment only restaurant operated by fashion designer Malu Antonio Veloso.

AHP Abaniko ladies

Sta Clara de Montefalco church- 2360 P Burgos Street, Pasay City. Very little is known of the Sta. Clara de Montefalco church. What is interesting are the carved doors on the entry. Five arched windows frame stained glass vignettes on its facade. The church has vaulted ceilings and gilded metal scroll work on its pillars. a wide marble altar features the image of Sta Clara on the right side on the altar and the crucified Christ dominates the Altar. Interesting are the tiered belfry on the right side with graduated church bells.

Jose Burgos Elementary School - the first public school building of Pasay City was constructed after the passing of Republic Act No.1801 in 1907 otherwise known as the Gabaldon Act appropriating funds from the American treasury for the construction of school buildings. The first school building was semi permanent which consisted of  4 big rooms and one small room in the middle. wooden boards were used for the flooring and windows were made of  sliding capiz panels. The school was ordered closed during the Japanese Occupation but was re-opened after WWII with its first batch graduating in November 1945. 

P Burgos Elementary School

FB Harrison compound- situated along Roxas Blvd., the old home occupied by no less than Francis Burton Harrison is no longer recognizable as it has sadly, been converted into a spa. right behind the lot covered by a high wall, one can see the wide expanse of wooden structures with iron grill work that used to serve as the US embassy and its consular offices.

former US consular offices

Lopa home - The mansion is located on Roberts street. Unfortunately, we were not given permission to enter the premises. But from the gate, we could see the well manicured sprawling grounds with the Bavarian style home nestled in the center of its greenery.

This was an eye-opening walk as it made Pasay City relevant again in the eyes been the birthplace of of heritage advocates. Normally no one looks at Pasay City as a destination. It's one of those convenient cities that play host to the Mall of Asia, the Carnival grounds of StarCity, a cultural hub or what not but it shares a glorious past and has cradled ersatz unsung heroes. Before the sun went down all the participants went home with a fresh perspective.