SAN MIGUEL DE MAYUMO

Bahay na Pula ruins in San Ildefonso, Bulacan

The closest province north of Manila is Bulacan. Mention it to local residents and you'd be mildly surprised that it is not the go-to destination for long weekends nor holidays. People only troop to Bulacan for Holy Week for Visita Iglesia or to purchase the usual pyrotechnics for New Year's Eve.  

San Miguel Church

San Miguel de Mayumo is a town on the north-eastern tip with Nueva Ecija and Pampanga on its boundaries. Formerly annexed by the town of Sto. Rosario, San Miguel came into its own as a third class municipality when people started moving into the area. Once an agricultural town, most of the agrarian land have been converted into industrial sites.

Naturally rich in geographical features, its rivers caves and forests serve as a magnet to high profile development attracting multinational corporations to set up operations in the area. Thanks to the residents' political will and determination, strip mining was stopped in the area. The prominent families of San Miguel still manage to keep the town in a quasi pristine state despite efforts to divide the area by then first lady Imelda Romualdez Marcos. It was through her initiative that the Dona Remedios Trinidad municipality was created. Since then, some areas, particularly the Biak-Na-Bato Nature Park have been subdivided and placed under the the jurisdiction of Dona Remedios Trinidad and San Miguel.

Gilbert Dino in the green shirt

Lakad Pamana, organized by Gilbert Dino does local tours of the province of Bulacan. Born and raised in San Miguel and now a resident of Bustos, he makes it a point to bring local tourists to experience what Bulacan has to offer. I wasn't disappointed! All it cost me was a few hours of sleep (due to the early morning drive) and P1,200.00. The van ride, breakfast, lunch and merienda were included. For this round of tours, we visited Biak-Na-Bato Nature Park, Banal na Bundok and Madlum Cave. Prior to that, we walked around the neighborhood appreciating the heritage homes that still survive to this day.

me on the river bank

Breakfast was at this nondescript restaurant called Olive's. Olive herself was on-hand to see to it participants to the walking tour were well-fed with local breakfast fare of either boneless milkfish, barbecued pork or local sausage. I had the garlic longganisa and some garlic rice. From there we had a short ride to Biak-Na-Bato. After a short orientation by the park guides we went straight to the trail.

Pahingahan cave

We first arrived at the Pahingahan cave (where Katipuneros either rested from a long journey to hide in the caverns or to convalesce after having been wounded in the skirmishes with the American forces. For some, and this is apropos, it had become a place of final repose if Trinidad Tecson didn't get to aid them with her healing hands. From that vantage point, one can already see the Aguinaldo cave across the river. 

Aguinaldo Cave

As you go higher up the trail, one ends up in a view deck where a huge gaping mouth of the Paniki cave can be seen. Literally thousands of bats have settled in the cave and they fly out at dusk. you'l know when you reach the viewdeck... the pungent smell of guano wafts up towards the rocks. Since the hanging bridge is in disrepair, we had to trek down to the river floor only to climb up the steps again to the historic rock of Biak-Na-Bato where the urban legend of Bernardo Carpio comes from. According to folk tale, strongman Bernardo used brute strength to prevent the rocks from closing the pathway.

Biak-Na-Bato

Next  down the trail was the "cathedral" when we reached the cave floor through makeshift bamboo walkways. The cavern has crystal clear water running through and it opens up in the other end for a picturesque backdrop. Photo ops were maximized and then we headed back up towards the paved walks to have lunch by the river's edge. After lunch of grilled milkfish and rice we proceeded to Banal na Bundok where a larger than life sized Via Crucis was mounted along a hillside. The top of the 14 stations affords one a magnificent view of Mount Suso'ng Dalaga. Then we descended to the Marian Collection featuring an open air chapel right in the heart of meandering walkways that have strategic stops in images of the Virgin Mary.

Paniki Cave cathedral

The last stop was at Madlum Cave. at least a ten minute drive from the Via Crucis, we reached the Madlum cave area which was at the other end of the cave systems of Biak na Bato. It was obviously popular among young mountaineers and trekkers. They have recreational facilities in the area like a hanging bridges and a monkey bridge where young students cross the river suspended on mere cables. Madlum cave is known as the area where the image of San Miuel was miraculously discovered. Contrary to popular belief, San Miguel de Mayumo was initially named after the town's patriarch, Miguel Pineda who started developing the area for agriculture alongside Mariano Puno of Sto. Rosario. Mayumo is a Pampango word for sweet which was added to the monicker as part of the alliance of the gentlemen. Then the "miraculous" discovery of the image of St. Michael the Archangel on a niche in Madlum cave was deemed enough reason to add the title "San". Ergo, San Miguel de Mayumo was born!

open cavern

We headed back for merienda at the residence of Ms Nats Buencamino whose family name is one of the revered families of the town. There was a refreshing coconut sherbet, empananda with creamy white cheese and pan de Karne (bread done french toast style but with minced meat mixed in). I ate so much merienda, I skipped dinner that evening. I'm trying to squeeze in another visit to San Miguel soon before the rainy season starts. Now, if only my schedule will allow it...

Madlum Cave

*Gilbert Dino organizes various heritage tours to Bulacan. Check out his Fb page Lakad Pamana, or San Miguel de Mayumo. He'll reach out to you if you show interest in his tours. 

** You can view my album on my Fb page. I hope you like them!