I have always had fond memories of Baguio. I used to go to the summer capital quite often when I was a kid. Two of my elder cousins studied there and my dear grandmother would gather all of us cousins and head for Baguio to check on her favorite grandchildren.
Recently, my cousin Alice arrived and she had the bright idea of taking her American husband to see Baguio first-hand. Apparently, she too, had fond memories of Baguio and had told Jim (her husband) stories of how she spent vacations there. So upon her invitation, I tagged along for a weekend there. She had an invite to stay at the Baguio Country Club and she and Jim stayed there while I and the driver stayed at the El Cielito Inn a stone's throw from SM City Baguio ( yes, there's one there now too).
I was surprised by the speed of which we got there. We cut the trip to at least half the time thanks to the modern day convenience of the NLEX and SCTEX which cuts through the face of Northern Luzon. Before it took 6-8 hours to get to the city of pines... nowadays, it takes 4-6 hours. Incidentally the SCTEX also cuts through the Hacienda Luisita ( owned by PNoy's family) and you get a sense of the wealth and power of landed families from the Spanish times to the present as they hold sway over the common Filipinos.
The purpose of the trip was R&R and to show Jim around what the Americans built to make the location a place of refuge and to remind them of home when they were getting bored and home-sick in Manila. Because truly, the city remains far removed from the heat of the rest of country. It's as if you were trasported to a different country while you're here.
When I was a child I stared in awe of the beauty that surrounded me as I craned my neck to see the deep ravines along Kennon Road. At the foot of the mountain one gets a whiff of fresh mountain air. No longer. You only get that now whe you're near the city proper. The rest of the climb all you see is the degradation of Kennon Road and the smell of smoke emissions from the busses that ply the Baguio-Manila Route.
There is so much urban development in Baguio now so much so that there are traffic jams along Session Road ( where we used to do most of the sightseeing and eating) and there are areas where traffic is re-routed one way. The side of the Baguio Cathedral along session Road has so many tall buildings now it has all but obscured the Gothic Baguio Cathedral from that side. I remember eagerly running up the steps to the cathedral and counting the hundred and plus so steps to the top. Pine trees that used to surround the historic church have been sawn off. there's a walkway and fountain that now obscures the faced of the Cathedral.
Thankfully, the sites that make Baguio unique are still there but I can't tell whether it has become a tourist trap or a sign of progress... I guess it's a matter of looking at different perspectives. The observation deck at Mine's View Park has been totally over-run by stall upon stall of curio shops and Photo-ops with dogs and horses. It takes a while before one gets to the view. Apparently there have been a lot of complaints from tourists and there is now a move to re-locate the merchants from the view deck. Igorot Kids used to hang around the cliff face to scrounge around for coins tossed by tourists. The practice has now been stopped. Rightly so, as it has cost the lives of some children falling off the cliff clambering for loose change.
The vista of Baguio remains as spectacular as ever but now, homes are precariously constructed along ridges. Old colonial homes are left derelict or up for sale. Hotels, motels, inns, pension houses, bed and breakfasts have sprung up like mushrooms due to the heavy influx of tourists during the summer. But the landmarks of Baguio remain as enduring as its glorious weather. At two in the afternoon, the clouds set in. Usually, it rains in the afternooons this time of year so don't forget your raingear. It isn't as cold as I remember it to be. But the flood of memorieshas made this trip a very sentimental one for me... and my cousin as well...
Here are some of Baguio's Must See's:
Baguio Country Club ( see the marker for its history)
Camp John Hay- built as an american military facility, the camp is now open to the public with all the great amenities and spectacular views. a certain area now has a row of dining and outlet stores.
Mine's View Park - need I say more?
Burnham Park - named after Daniel Burnham of Manila and London fame... he was responsible for the gridiron lay-out of the city of Manila. Baguio has the same lay-out.
Baguio Cathedral-(see photo)
Lourdes Grotto- we used to run up and down the stairs when I was a kid. Now it's a location for a TV commercial for body pain relief pill.
Mansion House- built as a summer residence for the presidents of the Philippines. Located across the entrance of Wright Park
Teacher's Camp- I stayed at the Teacher's Camp year ago for an Art consrvation and Preservation Seminar conducted by the National Museum. The place is famous for the Urban Legend of "white Ladies" and ghost stories.
Baguio Convention Center- Designed by National Artist for Architecture Leandro Locsin, the convention center is situated right across the UP Baguio Campus. I recommend you visit the Tourism office there to ask for maps of Baguio City.
Wright Park- Pony ride, anyone? I used to ride the sturdy mountain horses when I was a kid. I got a "kick" (pardon the pun) out of it everytime.
Botanical Garden- When I was a child i remember putting my nose on a rose to sniff it and my face was totally covered in pollen.
Mount Sto Tomas
Tam-awan Village- Artist Ben Cabrera is credited for re-creating an Ifugao village with his personal funds and creating a complete arts center with a gallery near Quezon Hill.
Philippine Military Academy- West Point style military Academy that trains the future military leaders of the country. I remember attending a PMA graduation when I was a kid. It was for the graduation of tito Alexander Aguirre who was top of his class. The academy has accepted women plebes a few years back.
Asin Hot springs
Loakan Airport- now closed for commercial air transport. Sea Air now has flights to La Union complete with busses that ferry passengers from La union to Baguio City
Bell Church
Heritage Hill- Site of Baguio City Hall. It houses American Colonial Buildings that are still in use.
Easter Weaving Room- site for local weaving. the most famous weaver that broke into international fame is Narda Capuyan. She popularized the Igorot weave in Europe and the americas
Wood Carver's Village
Baguio City Market- Ever popular place to look for bargains, especially fresh strawberries
Maryknoll Sanctuary
Yes they're still there. But you better go see Baguio before everything completely changes before your very eyes. Getting around isn't a problem as there are jeepneys that go the routes of these sites and taxis are cheaper (guess what? no aircon). there's even a fly-over now that leads from the city to the Marcos Highway that's as smooth as it can get...
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