BARONS OF BACOLOD AND ILOILO (2/4)

I woke up ahead of my alarm to the sound of chirping birds. Daylight was creeping in as I enjoyed my morning coffee in the cabin 4-D of Mambukal Resort. I just  stepped out to see the avian life amongst the trees when I remembered the evening commentary on the bus that there was a population of bats in the area. I was not disappointed. There were an inordinate amount of bats flying in to roost for the day. It was amazing to watch so I ran in again to fetch my camera and photograph them. I managed to take some snapshots of flying foxes and other species of bats. Apparently there are 4: golden mantled, common island, large flying fox and the endangered golden-crowned flying fox. I also took photos of surrounding areas  and checked out the restaurants for my breakfast. I was going to check out the falls when I bumped into the ladies who were also on their way to see it.

There are seven stops to the summit of the falls, the last one being the most spectacular. The trek was mild and the way was clearly marked out. There were too many photo ops along the way that when we reached the first stage of the falls, it was time to head back to base camp so we won't be late for the 8:30 a.m. call time. The cottage we stayed in was clean and well-ventilated. It had abundant water supply and the bathroom was neat and in working order.The sprawling complex has a total of 23.6 hectares and abundant wildlife to enjoy. Among the facilities are a buttterfly garden, hot mineral baths, a spa, zip line, boating lagoon, wall-climbing, pool, convention hall, canopy walk, villas, cottages and Ishiwata bath house. Mambukal Resort is the gateway to Mt. Kanlaon. I think a second visit is in order...

People have to remember that when they are part of a tour group, they are answerable for any delays they cause while on the trip. That should be taught to millenials. I go by the rule that if you're on time, you're already late! So we waited for more than half an hour to leave because three young men failed to wake up early and pack up ahead of call time. That further delayed our trip to the next stop thus affecting the schedule for the entire day.

We made a stop at Tan Juan Araneta house  in Bago City.  The home is now a general  museum run by the local government of Bago City. Famed as the home of General Araneta whose claim to fame is deluding the Spanish forces to surrender to him using only makeshift canons and 2 guns... that was a stroke of genius! He reclaimed the house for his  family  of twelve to live in until his death in 1924. The family was forced to abandon the house again with the arrival of the Japanese Kempeitai who used it as their headquarters. After WWII, the heirs no longer wanted to stay in the house and the local government made use of it at first as the Bago High School in 1947. By 1972, the Araneta family donated the property to the local government unit. By 1982 restoration had begun with the aid of the National Historical Institue. And in 1991 the museum was underway. It now has different sections from war memorabilia, home implements and furnishings, sugar production and an effigy of a babaylan (shaman).

Our next stop was at the Panaad Stadium in  Bacolod City. Apparently, we arrived a few days late for the Panaad Festival. Thank goodness! Otherwise we would not have been able to see the Kalamay sa Bacolod mini museum. The one stop museum  had a petite collection of memorabilia that deals with the production of sugar: its painstaking, labor-intensive production. It also has a section of dolls in indigenous attire. One was created by artist Solomon Saprid. Then we headed for lunch.

Eron's Cansi House is an unpretentious hole-in-the-wall restaurant that serves a variety of dishes for lunch fare. But since we replied to the query of what we wanted to eat... we wanted cansi for lunch. They brought us here because this was the best place to experience it. We ordered a few side dishes but the focus was the savory thick broth that came with bone marrow and fall off the bone meaty goodness of  cansi. The souring agent for the soup is an endemic ingredient called batwan. It's a green bulb that is boiled together with the thick broth and the bone-in leg and shank of beef. It's their Ilonggo version of sinigang including the gelatinous marrow that melts in your mouth. Honestly, if they didn't serve anything else,  the broth on the rice could save my lunch hunger pangs. So good!!

The Capitol of Negros Occidental is a neo-classic style building following Daniel Burnham's Beaux Art style that had been extended over the decades.  Corinthian columns  support a parapet that has two caryatid figures on each corner along the front colonnade. The facade faces a wading pool in the plaza that is bounded by Filipinized figures done by Guillermo Tolentino.  The provincial capitol tourism office is on the right wing annex of the building. The multi-purpose/social hall is on the second floor of the main building. 

Pressed for time due to our delayed schedule we were given  10 minutes to visit and document the San Sebastian Cathedral in Bacolod City. The church was originally a small chapel built in 1876. The present structure was built upon the initiative of Fr, Mauricio Ferrerro using Guimaras Island corral stone and inaugurated by Fr Manuel Cuenca in 1882.On the 23rd of June, 1933 it was made a cathedral. Msgr. Casimiro Lladoc repaired and improved the church in 1936. to mark the Cathedral's centenary, the church bells were brought down from the belfry and placed on the right side of the church patio in 1976.  Beside it is the Archbishop's Palace started in 1830 by Fr. Julian Gonzaga but was completed only in 1890. It was a refuge of Spanish military and civil officials during the revolution. It faces a small park with a Band Stand in the center. the church property line runs along the center of the park. The crown along the roof of the band stand has the names of  important classical composers. The band stand is adorned in classical black and white contrasting tiles. Fountains have suggestive sensual figures representing male and female genitalia.

By four in the afternoon we were at the port and ready to board a ferry to Iloilo.  Luckily the weather was cooperative and it was an hour and a half of smooth sailing from the Bacolod port to Iloilo. We saw Rocca Encantada but it was too far for any discernible photo from my camera. When we disembarked from the fast craft, the jeepney we rode in struck a bargain with us for a fifty peso/ pax fare from the port to our Go Hotel destination and another ride from the hotel to  our dinner at Kamalig at Atria Ayala. Dinner was superb as usual...I swear I must have gained 5 more pounds from eating on this trip. Tita Dodi Escartin joined us for dinner. She was in Iloilo attending to her father who was sick at the time.

Kamalig Restaurant at Atria Ayala (photo by Pheeyah Salones)

We were so full after dinner, we decided to burn off some calories with a stroll at the Esplanade along the mangroves of  the Iloilo river. The air was barely blowing and when it did, it was a warm night. Fitness enthusiasts were jogging or speed walking along the Esplanade.  It was also nearing the weekend so families were  strolling out at night.It's interesting to see new urban development in an old city but done right. Imagine doing an esplanade along the Pasig River... that would be a 10 mile marathon. Why can't the metropolis pool their resources together to build a jogging path like this?

Some members decided to end their walk at the Esplanade and took rides to their respective hotels. Tita Dodi left her car at Atria and we walked back with her. We then decided to have after dinner coffee at  Madge Cafe at Atria. The staff were friendly and informative. They knew their product and helped us decide what drinks to order. After the drinks, Tita Dodi decided to take us on a night tour of the city. It was a nice drive... no traffic! But it was either I was too tired or my glasses were dirty or that the surroundings were too dark. I could barely make out the palatial homes outlines against a dark street. After that, Tita Dodi dropped us off at our hotels to rest for the night.

BARONS OF BACOLOD AND ILOILO (1/4)

El Ideal

From the 25th -28th of April, 2018 I was travelling all over Bacolod and Iloilo with my Advocates For Heritage Preservation family. The tour was arranged for us by AHP member Emman dela Pena who took great pains in ensuring the tour went smoothly. Tito Encarnacion was the busy bee who acted as the team leader. He is after all, the founder of AHP.

I'm no stranger to Bacolod since I have friends in this province. But normally when I'm there it's usually for an outreach performance of Ballet Philippines from many years past. This trip makes it extra special because aside from the sentimental journey I was about to take, it offered me a relaxed attitude in seeing Bacolod and Iloilo from the vantage point of  being an admirer of heritage and an advocate at that! All those years of going to these provinces have become more meaningful as it provided me the opportunity to reminisce and remember some friends who are no longer with us in the physical world and some who have moved to distant lands and started new lives...

Our trip to these islands also led me to gasp at the lifestyle of the aristocrats... It just surprised me that my friends were/are as normal acting as anyone who didn't have tracts of land nor money to burn. I guess the truly rich in their own humble way are never flashy with their wealth nor as eager to flaunt what they've got.

I was at the NAIA terminal 3 at 1:00 a.m. to be sure I made my flight. There, I bumped into Tito and Aye who were taking a chance in re-booking to an earlier flight. At the gate I saw Alice de Vera Vasquez. Then I saw Noel Panaligan and family with Ness Cembrero across the hallway. Before we knew it, Tito and Aye were also walking towards the gate. Our flight landed in Bacolod at 5:00 a.m. and we got a van share to get us to the meeting place for breakfast in Silay City. El Ideal is a non descript, unpretentious restaurant that has been a land mark in Silay for decades. It's a re-purposed ancestral home with a historical marker out front along the main highway next door to an old school building. They serve great food at reasonable prices and they also have shelves of delicious local breads and delicacies made in the area.  I had Chorizo Pudpud for breakfast which was a good idea. The  sausages are taken out of their casing and fried. The meal is served with garlic rice, sunny side and a dip of local vinegar called sinamak. The protein kept me awake for the morning tour. At 130.00 pesos, that was a good choice.

I also went meandering around the town while the meals were being prepared. They open for breakfast around six but we were let in due to a previous arrangement with Emman. I took photos of old homes along the main highway and went into the San Diego de Alcala church right beside the town plaza. Built over the ruins of the old church, the new edifice was erected in 1920. Some of the ruins remain undisturbed behind the church. It was elevated to Pro- Cathedral status in 1994, the second church to gain that distinction and the only one outside of Manila. The church was designed and built by Italian architect Lucio Bernasconi after churches of his beloved country of origin. Funds were provided largely by Don Jose R. Ledesma, a wealthy sugar baron and the rest were from donations of the community. The church is laid out in a cruciform pattern flanked by two belfries and a rosette window in the facade and a dome on the altar area (the only one in Bacolod).

One by one the participants started to trickle in as their flights arrived. The Manila, Bacolod and Iloilo contingent once completed started to board the bus (a first for AHP heritage tours) and made our way to open countryside towards the Chapel of the Cartwheels in Manapla which was our first stop. Shaped like the typical salakot ( a wide-brimmed hat used to shield workers from the searing sun), the chapel's roof is made of slats of old wood to form a conical shape. Most of the walls are made up of old discarded wheels of carumatas  (wooden carts) that transported freshly harvested sugar cane from the fields to the milling area. Even the image of a crucified Christ is mounted on an old cart wheel emphasizing the significance of the chapel's thrust to reach out to the farm hands. Pews are made frown hewn hardwood and assigned to the family that made it. Lighting fixtures use re-purposed steel plates from tilling machines that draw furrows during planting season. A centuries old boulder brought to the area by workers serve as the main altar, while an image of the Madonna with butterfly sleeves stands off tangent to the altar. During construction, Msgr. Gaston dissuaded his father to see the church and upon completion, presented it to his father who thought it was unsightly. The individual parts of the chapel are pregnant with ecclesiastical meaning which was lost on the aesthetic sensibilities of his father.

Hacienda Rosalia

It seemed as though it was a joke considering the chapel is within the grounds of Hacienda Rosalia. The three story mansion sits amidst lush gardens with a tennis court on the side and a playhouse which is an ode to the nursery rhyme of the old lady that lived in a shoe. The sparkling white mansion is punctuated by brilliant hued flowers and a fountain in the front. This ancestral home is used by the descendants of the Gaston family and was used by Peque Gallaga (who is married to one of the daughters) for the award-winning film Oro, Plata, Mata. They actually opened its doors to welcome us and allowed us entry into the recibidor. All around it are the sugar cane fields where the family gained its wealth and prominence. Manapla is 44.5 km north of Bacolod City and may be reached via public transport or van hire.

Our guides Raymond Alunan and Cidni Mapa (take note of their family names) made commentaries along the way engaging us with stories of  the powerful and mighty hacienderos whose property lines reached out to as far as the horizon line.  They spoke of how the wars affected the way of life of the rich and mighty landlords and how their loyal workers would shield them from Japanese atrocities if they had treated their workers fairly. This was how the haciendas that remain were spared from commandeering by the Japanese Kempeitai and how the families managed to hold on to their baronies. The stories were animated enough to include the quirks of the rich and famous and the workers who pandered to their little  whims for fear of getting their ire.

The sun was getting high  and we reached our next stop at another chapel that was built for the workers. This one was recently featured as another model for art conservation.  Perhaps the newest among the churches in Bacolod, the Chapel of St Joseph the Worker in Victorias, is right smack in the heart of the Victorias Milling Co. and one needs special permission to see it. I was here many years ago for the 75th anniversary of Victoria Sugar Central. It grabbed my attention then as it still does now. The chapel is a composite work of modernity amidst a busy factory and sugar mill. Done by Ossorio family in 1948, the modern church features mosaic artwork in the baptistry on the baptism of Christ  and some panels in the altar and facade made of bits of colored soft drink bottles.

The piece d' resistance is the mural of the last judgement with the gargantuan image of the "angry" Christ dominating the mural. The artwork was a collaboration between Alfonso Ossorio ( son of Miguel Ossorio) and Ade de Buthune, a Belgian born American artist. The fresco remains the focal point of the altar with  brilliant colors that seem to leap out from the walls. It is hard to maintain as it requires a particular pigment, carbon chromium carbide ethyl silicate no. 40 to retain its brilliance. Around the chapel are images of saints in Filipino attire and style. Ergo it was featured in Life Magazine and Liturgical Art Magazine for its  first Filipinism in ecclesiastical art.

It was past noon when we got to our lunch venue at Edgewater  restaurant. It sits literally at the edge of the ocean. Edgewater offers  fresh, abundant seafood at very reasonable prices. For our meal, we feasted on garlic fried milkfish, kilawin with gata (ceviche with coconut cream), KBL-kadios, baboy langka (beans, pork and jackfruit),  sisig, calamares and a basin full of fresh oysters and streamed rice. All of that for two hundred pesos per pax. Beat that!

Our next stop was at the Hofilena Museum. We were a bit late for our appointment because lunch was a bit slow but so worth savoring,  but sir Ramon Hofilena was a most gracious host. The museum is actually their ancestral home  and he actually lives there.

Sir Ramon is a sprightly 84 year old that can still deliver a punchline to enliven sleepy guests. A former swimsuit model, artist, athlete, thespian and former golden boy of High Society, his activities were side-swiped when he had a temporary paralysis from head to toe. Thankfully,  he recovered! His well appointed home is replete with memorabilia of an esteemed family that was used to travels abroad and stately dinners at home. Walking from room to room, I was constantly amazed at his collection of fine china, artwork, books, photos and curios from various ends of the globe. He will even sign prints of artworks and memorabilia one can purchase at the museum.

Next item on our itinerary was the Victor Fernandez Gaston Heritage House or the Balay Negrense. The home was donated to the local government by the Gaston Family as a showcase for culture and the arts. There was formerly a dance studio on the ground floor but is now an exhibit area of furniture and costumes some of the rooms are now showcases of family portraits and escudos of the family's noble past.  The wooden balusters of the two-pronged staircase lead to an open floor plan on the second level where groupings of furniture  are set purposely to encourage conversation among guests. Nothing beats the charm of gleaming old wood! The floor boards are wide and polished to a dark sheen. And the front windows are arched tall enough with ventanillas underneath to give it an inviting open  facade.

On our way to our last stop for the day, we passed many other heritage houses and our guide Raymond would break into story-telling of many tragic romances that left us feeling a little sad. One such story was that of Adela who was forbidden to see  Rudy, (a man who courted her) because he was below her station. Given that she was duty-bound to listen to her parents' will, Adela and  Rudy made a vow to wait for each other. Adela still tried to reach out to him through letters sent through her friend, Emma. Apparently, Emma and her beloved Rudy fell in love  and were eventually married. Adela, refusing to accept her fate becomes a recluse and locks herself up in her room. She shuns the company of her  family and lives her life in utter solitude. And because every time she wakes up in the morning  and rises to the sight of her married friends home (one house away from hers), her last act upon inheriting the home from her parents was to lop off the second floor of the house where she lived and stayed on the ground floor. She passed on in September 2,  2011.

Before Sunset we made our way towards the Balay ni Tana Dicang in Talisay.  I had to tell the sad love story of Adela because our next stop was at a home of a strong-willed empowered lady. The house was owned by Efigenio Lizares and Enrica Alunan. Tana is the diminutive for kapitana referring to the matriarch of the clan. The house sits on a 6,000 sq.m. property and done in the traditional Bahay-na-Bato style. The exterior is made of corral stone (coquina) and brick with a palitada of lime. The  ground floor was where the boys rooms were stationed. This was so the boys could protect the women on the upper floor. A total of 18 rooms make up the whole house. On one side of the house was formerly a street that Tana Dicang had closed off to discourage unwanted male admirers of her daughters. That side of the house has iron grill works protecting the windows while the street side has none. Venatanillas are present everywhere and above that are sliding capiz windows. The callado and balustrade of the escalera principal are decorated in thorn-like patterns while rosette patterns soften the theme. On one side are masculine almost phallic motiff  and the sala has  a more feminine motiff. Tana Dicang was eventually widowed and she had to raise all her children on her own, She rose to such prominence that statesmen would make an appointment to solicit her influence. At the same time, she ran the affairs of her hacienda with a trusty Thompson (shotgun) by her side. In order to keep the property within her family she willed that only the daughters could inherit her property.

Raymond Alunan playing the piano at the sala of Tana Dicang

The sun was going down  and it was time to head for dinner and a place to rest after a long day. We drove up to Mambukal Resort in Murcia which is 32 km from Bacolod City. Spread over 23.6 hectares, Mambukal is a nature sanctuary and water park with natural hot springs fed from the vents of Mt. Kanlaon.  We got our room assignments for the night and unloaded our gear in the cabins. At P1,200.00/night for 4 pax, it was a good deal.  Our dinner was at the reception area of the Ishiwata Baths where we dined on KBL, pancit, fish, chicken and fresh fruit for dessert. But before we could make it to the hot spring dipping pool it was about to be closed for the evening. I didn't mind. Freshening up after dinner, I drifted off to slumber land...

KUDOS TO BALLET PHILIPPINES

Ballet Philippines, being the oldest classical and contemporary dance company in the Philippines has the distinction of having the most number of artists who have made a name for themselves either here or abroad. Sure, other companies can claim that some of their dancers have moved to bigger companies elsewhere... Some remain and move on to other disciplines. Others get married and lead seemingly mundane lives outside of the glitzy dance world, but BP dancers tend to return and lend a helping hand to the company that molded their mettle as artists either as teachers or choreographers or staff.

The best proof of a company's achievements is when the company and/or its artists are recognized by its peers. The Philippine Legitimate Stage Artists Group, Inc. (Philstage) has often awarded the company and its dancers for its outstanding performances through Gawad Buhay. Established in 2008, the award- giving body is composed of a jury of 16 independent members who has the enviable task of giving out 40 trophies across 23 categories.

In March of this year, Gawad Buhay cited Ballet Philippines for its production of Rama Hari.

Ballet Philippines’ (BP) “Rama Hari,” adapted by Bienvenido Lumbera from the Indian epic “Ramayana,” is the most nominated and most awarded production in Gawad Buhay history, winning 14 of its 22 nominations in 2012.*
 - Inquirer.net, 24 March, 2018

photo from tumblr.com

Another multi awarded production is Encantada. 
BP’s “Encantada” remains the only production to have swept all four design awards in a single year, for Salvador Bernal’s set and costume designs, TJ Ramos’ sound design and Batalla’s lighting design in 2011.*
-Inquirer.net, 24 March, 2018

This brings our attention to its choreographer... former Artistic Director and now Natatanging Gawad Buhay awardee - Agnes Locsin. I've had the privilege of  being taken under her wing as a dance scholar and have performed for some of her choreographies. I remember dancing for her in Dabaw while she was making her way as a newbie choreographer... Perhaps the most difficult that I have been able to perform in was Encantada. Agnes' choreographies stand out because of its historical, ethnographic, and cultural themes as well as its iconic dance language that isn't hard to miss... She has a body of works that remains among the top draws of Ballet Philippines repertoire. If you ask me, this award 's taken too long.

*photo screen grab from Facebook

*photo from Astig.ph

Ever the recluse, Agnes typical reaction upon hearing of the award was embarassment instead of surprise. She abhors public adulation... much like another awardee - Sarah  Anne Alejandro. Sarah took dance classes with Agnes Locsin as well. What makes Sarah different is that she is an MD by profession... yes, she is a medical doctor! Sarah's award comes in the heels of her outstanding performance in Amada. Choreographed by Alice Reyes, Amada is an adaptation of a folktale dealing with the occult in which a cloistered Spanish lady takes a fascination for a local ritual when women reign supreme. Sarah was cast as the Tadtarin, the ring leader of the community who passes on her persona to the reticent Amada. For all her lady like demeanor and shy manners, Sarah is transformed into a wild shaman that leads the town into a frenzy of witchcraft and reincarnation. And so, it's a no-brainer why she was bestowed the award. 

*photo from Facebook

Another BP alumni who received a citation was PJ Rebullida for his choreography in the musicale Newsies. The show had its run at the Solaire in Manila to sell out crowds for a few months. PJ  started training with STEPS Dance Studio and then danced for Ballet Philippines for a few seasons. He then succeeded in moving to Germany where he performed contemporary dance pieces. He came back to Manila and did the rounds of dance schools sharing the expertise he learned in modern and contemporary dance abroad. PJ is one of the many dance artist alumni who continually touches base with Ballet Philippines... 

I'm currently waiting to hear from the others out there... throw me a line and let me know what you're up to. We'd really like to know!

MOTHER EARTH

Boracay was closed to the public effective 26th of April, 2018. This was a long time coming... It really needs to be left alone for sometime in order for it to regenerate. Some operators and tourism insiders are now on the edge of their seats as to which island will be closed soon. Tourism has got the better of us. Yes, we're thinking if only we can draw tourists to visit our beautiful country... but at what price?

Other islands in Asia have followed our example. Thailand has closed off Maya Bay. California has also closed off Coronado Bay after sewage contaminated run off from Tijuana river brought in pollution. The top five countries currently polluting our oceans are: China, Indonesia, the Philippines, Vietnam and Sri Lanka. It's a pity really... we're on third spot even if we have some of the most magnificent beaches in the world. We also happen to be the center of the center of endemicity in the entire planet. The island of Luzon has been found to have the most number of mammals endemic to our country and are yet being discovered by researchers and scientists.

dance performance from Fo Guang Shan

We already know so much of these facts and yet, we continually ignore them and put our country at risk environmentally. We relegate the responsibility of caring for our country on the back burner. We aren't alone either. Humanity has to be mindful of the damages we cause on our planet. It doesn't have to be an all consuming task by one country. We can all work together on this.

Today, I visited the Arroceros Forest Park right  smack in the heart of Manila for the Earth Day Celebrations. What a fitting venue! Last year, the Dakila'ng Pamana ng Lahi and Advocates for Heritage Preservation were amongst other groups were in the park to protest the cutting down of trees in order to make way for a new Gymnasium to be built by the city government of Manila. Thankfully, the mayor listened and put a stop to the proposed plan.

Ms Bambi Lamoglia Harper, Mabelle Tenorio, the author, Dennis Dy Ko, Lino Atienza, Mye Atienza

I expressed interest in the gathering today, so I went to have a go-see and I was pleasantly surprised at the attendance. A lot of organizations joined the event to express their support in saving Mother Earth. The celebration started at 9 a.m. with a hodgepodge of activities from dance performances, pranic healing, yoga and meditation, vegetarian food sampling to chanting and singing odes to the forests and story-telling for kids. Some notable celebrities were there to show their love for nature and the planet.

Joem and Emy Emy Emerald

Members of Pamanlahi and Advocates for Heritage Preservation were there as well. It's a pity the celebration was not well publicized as it would have been interesting for millenials and families to spend a Sunday promoting love for nature and the planet. They would have learned a lot!

vegetarian pansit

The common notion is that in order to care for the planet, one has to live an ascetic lifestyle, free from preservatives, everything vegan, nothing goes to waste. It can be daunting for one who wants to start showing concern for the earth. You needn't go extreme! For starters, just adapt one practice and commit to it! I started by bringing my own recyclable water bottle everywhere I go. that prevents me from using those awful plastic cups. A friend gifted me with my own recyclable drinking straw... washable, reusable and kinder to the ocean. Then I discovered core-less toilet paper... start with small steps. You'll be surprised at how far you can go...

free healing session

I hope many other Filipinos pick up on these activities... the more responsible we are, the less likely we'll ruin our natural resources...

THE RELIC

I am blessed! Truly blessed!!! How many people can claim they have seen a saint in their lifetime? I have... on both of his visits to the Philippines! Karol Wojtyla then ensconced as Pope John Paul II came to the Philippines in his capacity as head of the Catholic Church first in February of 1981 to beatify San Lorenzo Ruiz; and second in January of 1995 for World Youth Day in Manila. 

At both occasions the pontiff stayed at the Papal Nuncio near the Quirino Avenue and Taft which is approximately 3 blocks away from my house. How lucky can I get? During both visits of the Pope, though security was tight, the faithful flock could get near the gate of the Apostolic Nunciature. Many stayed until the wee hours to get a glimpse of His Holiness. Perhaps knowing he had a huge crowd waiting outside, he would step out on the balcony to give his blessings. On one instance after bestowing his blessing, he told the crowd over the microphone... I blessed you now, go home... much to the delight of the Filipinos. Sometimes, they would serenade him with religious songs and he would stay a few minutes to listen to them sing praise songs and then bless them before retiring for the night or praying in the solace of his room.

People stood along pathways, road islands, curbs and whatever space was left to them just to get a picture of His Holiness or to watch him wave back from his pope mobile. They weren't disappointed. He had such a serene countenance and he always exuded an aura that indeed this man was God's representative on earth. Such was my recollection of Pope John Paul II prior to his canonization. He had such a profound influence on the Church and that wherever he went, he could group together leaders of different religions without any preference or prejudice. And so, it was not a big surprise that Pope Francis would declare him a saint on the 27th of April 2014. Even before that was accomplished, miracles were already being credited to the new saint.

With great anticipation, I attended Mass for the public veneration of St. John Paul II at the Manila Cathedral in Intramuros on the 7th of April, 2018 at nine in the morning. There was a considerable number of people already inside the church when I arrived so I had to improvise by staying directly outside of the dedicated area for media right by the altar on the left side. Where his portrait was prominently displayed. I didn't move away as I knew his relic was to be deposited at the dais that was beside his portrait.

Listening to your inner critic pays off when you know that the relic was to be ensconced at the elevated pedestal. The Mass was all about his contributions to the church. His biopic produced by CNN was to follow after the Eucharistic celebration. I managed to get close shots of the relic because I was at arm's length. Those who came a little later or were seated at the end of the knave had to contend with lining up to get to pray by the relic. That would have taken all day. Easily!

Since I already had the photos I needed and my prayers accomplished I stayed behind to watch the documentary produced by CNN on St Pope John Paul II. It moved me! Cures have been attributed to his intercession and knowing that, his influence grew ever more than when he was alive. Experts who studied the medical cases of  healing of two women could only report it in disbelief. Both would have been fatal. Both were completely healed.

There was a mass to follow at 12:15 and the long line towards the relic had to be moved to the sides so as not to disrupt the next celebration. I didn't have to wait around for another miracle to happen...