TWO CAVES, TWO DAMS AND DUMAGATS

Lakad Pamana's recent trip to Norzagaray, Bulacan was an eye-opener of sorts as it made guests experience the province on many levels. It was not only an eco-cultural tour of the eastern side of the province but a socio-civic one as well. Included in the itinerary is a brief inter-action with an indigenous tribe living within an area a mere two-hour drive from Manila. 

Pinagrealan Cave entrance

The itinerary organized by Gilbert Dino proved to be a challenging one: spelunking, Punduhan ng Dumagat, Angat Dam experience... and a river dousing.  Seems like fun? Add to all that a historical revelation and  gastronomic experience as well... Okay,  we started out early so that we were at the Pinagrealan Cave by seven or eight in the morning.  Once we were in the site, obligatory pictures were taken and guides provided participants with crash helmets at some flashlights. Some guests brought their own headlamps for the caves. I was armed with my lamp and a camera to take shots within the cave.

*courtesy of  Ibarra Jr C de Castro

Formerly known as Minuyan Cave, Pinagrealan has a deep history within its caverns. No less than Emilio Aguinaldo slept in one of its biggest chambers when the Katipuneros were fighting against the Spaniards for Philippine independence. Pinagrealan's name may be strange and it sparked a thread of discussion as to its nomenclature. Gen Sinforoso dela Cruz and Col. Ambrosio de la Cruz established an encampment in the cave where injured Katipuneros could be treated and where everyone could be safe from the prying eyes of the Spanish forces. It was fairly easy to traverse the cave's inner sanctum. There is a part that has an inner pool. water's cold there. Breakfast was the next order of the day so we headed out and took more photos outside before taking a seat near a spring fed swimming pool.

balinsasayaw (swift) navigating the caves through echo location

Breakfast was simple fare of hot steaming rice, daing na bangus (fried milkfish marinated in vinegar), longganisa (local sausages) from Sta. Maria, Bulacan, chopped tomatoes, sunny-side eggs, coffee or tea and various local delicacies such as: cassava cake and rice cakes made of gelatinous rice (kakanin). So you see, there's a culinary component involved in the trip. (more later...)

cassava cake

kakanin

daing na bangus

longganisa

There were two vans so we drove to our next stop - the Punduhan ng Dumagat ( Dumagat reserve). Along the way, we passed a viewdeck  where the Ipo Dam could be seen from the ridge. Ipo dam is part of the Angat - Ipo-La Mesa water system that delivers water to the residents of Metro-Manila. the Spillway is around 101m high. it's around 7.5km further down from the Angat dam water system which was exactly where we were headed after our Dumagat encounter. By then it was nearly lunch time.

Ipo dam

Within the span of fifteen minutes we were at the Punduhan ng Dumagat, a reserve that was exclusively for the  indigenous people living in the area prior to its development as a hydroelectric plant protected area. We had a short orientation conducted by the administrator of the reserve: Brother Martin Francisco who was responsible for their education, and livelihood. The location was placed under the stewardship of the National Power Corporation (NAPOCOR) together with the Sagip Sierra Madre Environmental Society, Inc. (SSMESI).

Bro. Martin Francisco

                

Monte Cristo

There are numerous cave systems within the 10 hectare area. All of these systems are accessible depending on the skills of the spelunkers. Mountaineers, experienced ones at that, need special equipment to visit all these caverns... half a day is not enough. The Lungga ng pitong demonyo caverns require advanced climbing skills as cave enthusiasts have to rappel five storeys down to get to the interesting areas. As we were a rag-tag group of visitors, we kept to the fairly easy systems and at Monte Cristo that had an uncanny formation resembling the face of Christ.

boodle fight set up

We arrived with our donation of pre-loved clothing, school supplies, seeds and some food items. After the class picture with Monte Cristo as the backdrop, we headed to the schoolhouse for a sumptuos lunch of Dumagat cuisine prepared for us by the community. 

sinabawon

Sinabawon is a sour soup of chicken and cabbage that is unique in that it uses the young leaves of a particular tree called alibangbang as a souring agent.

Sinampit is a simple dip made of finely minced bird's eye chilli that they use to flavor either the soup or fish

sinampit

Binangkat is roasted fish encased (in this case, tilapia) in gored bamboo poles giving it a fresh smoky flavor. served with slices of tomatoes and calamansi (local lime) and soy sauce.

binangkat

binangkat on open flame

The Dumagats are a peaceful indigenous tribe living in the forested area of the Angat dam until urban development started to creep in. They are also known as Agta (a possible derivative from aeta). They have their own language known as bulos which they use to communicate with each other. They do, however, speak and understand Tagalog so interaction with them was not at all difficult. As a matter of fact, the term Dumagat comes from the bulos acronym : dumag means naked people, gubat means forest. Now, you'd be hard-pressed to find Dumagats walking around in their birthday suit. 

Dumagat kids

They are so simple... still living in huts made os sawali (woven rattan) and pawid (straw). Their way of life has changed immensely since the dam was built. Ancestral lands where they used to hunt and forage for food have become a main source of water and energy for the more"civilized" lowlanders living in Manila. They now live in huts gathered into different communities and centered around multi-purpose halls that serve as classrooms and reception halls for visitors who bring donations for their basic needs. 

Dumagat kids as cave guides

As urban development slowly creeps in, the Dumagats are being displaced from the areas where they were born. The burgeoning metropolis has also caused encroachment on their territory in terms of urbanization and of human traffic. At this point, there has been intermarriages between Dumagats and new residents (dayo) in the Angat Dam area. It is no longer an exclusive domain of their people. There is now a distinction between the kulot (curly) and the unat (straight). These terms are a direct reference to their hair, of course. Kulot are the original Dumagats as characterized by their curly hair while the unat are the half-breeds born to a Dumagat mother/father and a lowlander partner.

Angat Dam

After a great lunch and some songs presented by the kids we went to the dam's view decks and drove up to the spillway guided by Bro. Martin.  What's interesting about the songs presented by the kids were that they were all original. No rap music here!!! They sang of  freedom to use the resources of the mountains of Sierra Madre, and love for the environment accompanied by the lonely strumming of a guitar. Rhyme and rhythm were not measured in studied terms but of a feeling bourn of longing and loneliness to  be who they are. the mountains and the lives of Dumagats are inextricably linked. 

Tariktik forest trail

Along the way we got invited to merienda  after visiting the Angat water system. From the viewdeck, we proceeded to the dam's embankment. This serves to irrigate 28,000 hectares of farmland in Bulacan and Pampanga and 90% of Manila's water needs. Photos galore were taken and then it was to the Napocor office for merienda. After all, our visit coincided with a town fiesta honoring St. Joseph the Worker. By the time the meal was consumed, we didn't have enough time to visit Bitbit River. We'd have to forego swimming in the river another time...

confiscated horses used for illegal logging and drugs roam around the watershed

AHP GOES TO RIZAL

AHP family

The Advocates for Heritage Preservation recently went on a heritage tour of six of Rizal's churches. People are somewhat amazed when a horde of individuals all wearing golden yellow AHP shirts descend on a particular town and  file into these old buildings. Some of these people are armed with dslr's, some with ipads, and some with their go-pro's... all of them passionate about admiring and enjoying antiquity.

This entry not only provides a run-down of an entire day of fun for us members of AHP but also vital information on the places we visit. On this trip, we visited six churches in the province of Rizal that are noteworthy for their historical significance and also for their aesthetic value. Our first stop was at Antipolo (Nstra. Sra. dela Paz Y Buenviaje)  then we drove to Pililia (St. Mary Magdalene). We stopped for lunch at Tabi ng Lawa restaurant before we sped on to Tanay (St. Ildefonsus). The next stop was at Baras (San Jose); after which we visited Morong (St. Jerome) and finally, Binangonan (St. Ursula).

Nstra. Sra. dela Paz y Buenviaje

Let me give you a little bit of information on these six churches for you (dear readers) to appreciate the photos  I have posted here as well:

Antipolo Church

Antipolo (Nstra. Sra. dela Paz Y Buenviaje)*

This church was first built from 1630-1633 by Jesuit Father Juan de Salazar, burned during the Chinese uprising of November 1639 to March 1640, rebuilt by Fr. Salazar in 1637 but was destroyed during earthquakes of 1645, 1824 and 1863. The present church ws reconstructed by Monsignor Francisco Avendano and was declared a national shrine by the bishops of the Philippines in 1954. This modern church, built on the site where the statue of the virgin was discovered leaning against the trunk of a tipolo tree, has a  circular layout topped by a huge dome and has three main entrances. Gothic influence is seen from the triangular windows and mouldings. It houses the image of Nstra. Sra. dela Paz y Buen Viaje ( Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage)., 

The statue was brought over to Manila from Mexico by Gov-Gen Don Juan Nino de Tabora in 1626 and entrusted to the Jesuits at Antipolo. Declared patron saint of the Manila Galleons, it made eight successful roundtrips across the Pacific to Acapulco without any mishaps in 1641, 1643, 1645, 1646 (on the San Luis), 1648 to 1649(on the Encarnacion), 1650 (on the San Diego), 1651 to 1653 (on the San Javier), 1659 to 1662 (on the San Jose) and in 1746 to 1748 (on the Nstra. Sra. del Pilar). The image was canonically crowned before 100,00 people on 26, November 1926 by Manila Archbishop Michael O'Doherty in Luneta.

St. Mary Magdalene

Pililia (St. Mary Magdalene)*

This church, first built in bamboo and nipa in 1583, was rebuilt in wood by Franciscan missionaries from 1670-1673. The altarand convent were repaired in 1848 and the church was again repaired from 1962 to 1976. Pililia is located 58.44 kilometers from Manila.

Mary Magdalene side chapel

San Ildefonso de Toledo

Tanay (St. Ildefonso de Toledo)*

The best-preserved church complex in the province, this church, in Bgy. Plaza Aldea, was first built in Nipa and bamboo in 1606. It was rebuilt in 1680 but was demolished due to its deteriorating condition. The church was built and completed in 1783 by Franciscan Father Ildefonso Fentanes with good local stone from  the Tanay quarry. The convent was started in 1640, repaired in 1773, finished in 1783 by  Fr. Fentanes and was repaired and improved in 1851.

The church's massive Early Renaissance, adobe-faced facade features superpositioned columns topped by carved pineapples, semicircular arched main entrance and windows and a pediment with a statued niche framed by an order. Inside is a long nave, five ornate retablos with Rococo design, a silver plated main altar and celebrated 200-year old bas-reliefs of the fourteen Stations of the Cross (Via Crucis) along the nave's walls which were indigenized from Western styles. On its left is its for-storey octagonal bell tower and on its right is the convent ant courtyard. The church is now listed as a National Cultural Treasure.

St. Joseph

Baras (San Jose)*

This church, along San Jose Street, is located on a low mound just off the main highway and is approached by a flight of steps. It was first built by the Franciscans in 1595 but was transferred by the Jesuits, after a fire in 1635 to Ibayo in 1636. The town was returned to the present site by the Franciscans in 1682 and the present adobe church was was built here from 1682 to 1686. The church ceiling was removed during a renovation in the 1960s, exposing the rough wood beams supporting the ceiling. Tiles used for the restoration of the floor were taken from ruined structures in Intramuros. The convent is located beside the church (** now an escuela).

Windows are limited to the facade and one side of the church and the sanctuary is divided from the nave by an arch. The church has simple but well preserved interiors. The altar and lectern are stone artifacts unearthed beneath the church during the 1960s renovation. The altar, divided into stories, appears to have been intended to be a stone sarcophagus. Both the main altar and the two side altars are in the Plateresque style.

St. Jerome

Morong (St. Jerome)*

Located in Bgy. San Jose, this church was built by Franciscan friars in 1612 opposite of its present location. After it was destroyed by fire, it was rebuilt with stone and mortar by Father Blas de la Madre in 1615 using China craftsmen. The facade was designed by Don Bartolome de Palatino of Paete between 1850 and 1853. The four storey (100 foot), octagonal bell tower was also built from 1850 to 1853 by Father Maximo Rico.

The church's elaborate, exquiitely carved three-storey Baroque facade has superpositioned Doric columns, a semi-circular arched main entrance and an elaborately decorated segmental pediment with carved cornice and tympanum. Horizontal string courses with decorative mouldings and balustrades identify each level. Chinese influence is seen at the two Chinese lion sculptures at the steep entrance driveway (it is 30 feet above the town). Above the main entrance is its landmark single bell tower (characteristic of European churches) with its statue of St. Michael the Archangel on top and ornamented with floral and scroll designs. The church is one of the splendid examples of tropical Baroque architecture in the Philippines.

St. Ursula

Binangonan (St. Ursula)*

This centuries-old church, at the poblacion, was first built by Franciscan friars as a chapel in the late sixteenth century to gain access to native settlers around Laguna de Bay. The present church, started in the seventeenth century and completed in 1800, has a lovely three story moss and lichen-covered belfry (**now restored and cleaned)

St. Ursula image

By the time the AHP vans decided to head back to Manila, it was dusk. Those who attended the heritage tour to these six churches had  a lot of fun over a rustic lunch at a non-descript restaurant which was literally sa Tabi ng Lawa (beside Laguna Lake). The afternoon merienda was in a small Halo-halo place in Binangonan. For those who didn't join this trip, a part two is scheduled in May... We hope to see you then!

* information on the"six Rizal churches lifted from
"A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Churches"
by Benjamin Locsin Layug; New Day Publishers, 2007

** my update on the current state of the churches

MINALUNGAO'S MYSTIQUE

I went out on another eco- cultural trip with Gilbert Dino's TROPA'NG GALA to this supposedly mystical river in Gapan, Nueva Ecija. It was a two-pronged tour that saw people from all persuasions and age groups on a heritage cum nature trip a few hours from Manila.

* photo courtesy of Leah Barcinal

Mr. D picked me up a little past five at the Bonifacio Monument in Caloocan City so I joined Leilani Concepcion, Dennis Dy Ko and Mr. D to pick up Ms Rheeza Santiago Hernandez and hubby Jonathan and their friend. There was another van that was stationed at Trinoma to pick up the group of Rence Chan, Pheeyah Salones, Allan Pardilla Martinez, Jon Gorme, Phillip Reyes, Mafe Dajalos, Ofie Palma, Igor Golubev, Jeffrey Estalilla and partner, Michael Valdez Candelaria and Aiz Dl, Leah Barcinal ... Hope I didn't miss anyone...

breakfast at Arki's Tambayan with Pheeyah Salones, Mafe Dajalos, Ofie Palma and Leilani Concepcion

The first stop was at Arki's Tambayan in Bulacan. This unpretentious little restaurant is owned and operated by the husband and wife tandem of Ervin and Kat Garcia. They served steamed and fried rice, fried eggs over easy, smoked sardine (tinapang galunggong), dried salted fish (daing), beef tapa and fresh carabao's milk to douse over the rice or use as cofee creamer. needless to say, it was delish!!!

del Rosario heritage house

The first component of the tour was a visit to Gapan's remaining heritage houses. AHP Gapan organizers Louie Ramirez and Ramon Valmonte accompanied us around town to noteworthy homes. We were warmly welcomed at the Del Rosario home and at the Cuison Mansion. and the photos are more than reminders of how much fun the group was having. Unfortunately. part of the del Rosario home fell prey to a road widening project a large part of the backyard/ azotea was lopped off in the guise of progress. 

The next noteworthy visit was at the Divina Pastora church:

Built in the 1800's by Augustinian friars with Gapanense forced labor, the brick church has withstood natural and man-made calamities including the 1896 Philippine Revolution, World War II and the Great 1990 Earthquake.

The Gapan church is a pilgrimage site for two miraculous patron saints -- the Three Kings whose feast day continues to be celebrated ever January 6, and the Divina Pastora every May 1.The Gapan church has been declared the National Shrine of the Divina Pastora.* (Lakad Pamana page*)

Minalungao National Park is fast becoming a popular destination in the area. operated by the Department Of Environment and Natural Resources. It's a post-card pretty area that offers something for everyone. Visitors have a variety of activities to engage in: ziplining, swimming, spelunking, rafting, trekking or simply lazing on the river banks to take in the raw beauty of nature and the fresh breeze that caresses the gigantic monkey-pod (acacia) trees that provide shade from the relentless summer sun. There was a dearth of cottages for rent owing that we visited on a holiday (Araw ng Kagitingan) so we had to wait a while until suitable shade was made available for our group.

This prompted horticulturist Rence Chan to take note of vegetation  that was not endemic in the area. Rence continued to rant on the planting of fox tail palms much to the delight and laughter of Tropa'ng Gala. Really, DENR should be more conscientious in their attempt to landscape the place

Arki's again served a sumptous lunch of prawns drenched in crab fat, grilled pork belly (liempo), grilled aubergines, pickled green papaya, bangus ( milkfish), green mango salad, and lemon cucumber juice or watermelon juice to quench our thirst.

prawns in crab fat

griilled squid

Arrangements were made for spelunking activities so we walked in single file to follow our guide... a 13 year old boy named Niko who was trying to work his way through summer break. He knew every nook and cranny in the cave we visited as he waited patiently for us to finish our photo ops. we crossed the hanging bridge to take the 1000 steps up the slope across the river. More photo ops on the summit and then we started descent. I managed to find a shoer stall and quickly changed before heading back to Manila. But Arki's wasn't done yet... they served dinner of hot steaming Bulalo before the vans made their way back to Manila.

hitting the summit to 1,000 steps
photo by Leilani Concepcion*

Incidentally, Minalungao has a bad reputation of having a high rate of visitor deaths, disappearances. Apparently when visiting, one must not make too much noise or make a rucus, otherwise spirits/elementals  snatch you as you're having a dip in the river...  Either that, or you're too gorgeous that spirits supposedly take a fancy to you. No such thing happened on our adventure. I'm still here, aren't I?

** my Minalungao album is posted on my Fb page feel free to browse.

GOD'S CHOSEN PEOPLE FLY EAST

Ayalon guests*

Israeli's are supposedly the chosen people. The mere mention of their race inspires great awe and you wonder if they fall into the stereotypical image of very conservative, robe covered people roaming in the vast dessert. NOT!

Three rabbis and two guys*

On a recent assignment organized by FLYEAST PHILIPPINES, I had the great opportunity to interact with a group of 80 Israelites who came to the country for ten days of fun.  FLYEAST is an Israeli owned and operated company based in Makati City. Their guests this time around are the top sales agents of an insurance company Ayalon. To make things interesting, Flyeast owner/operator Yoav Goran was hands-on with preparations making sure everything goes on smoothly as well as cooking up activities which the guests will experience for the very first time.

Loving couple going to crater island*

They arrived on a late afternoon flight from Hong Kong and spent the first night at the Manila Peninsula. The next day we toured them around the Metro. What's interesting about this group is that they are composed of  sales agents spanning a wide age group... and three rabbis. So, ok, they were out to have fun but they won't let the worship part just slip by.  Their tour was gonna hit a Sabbath so they came prepared. 

Heading to Taal crater*

The second day saw the two busloads of revelers en route to Taal Volcano island. Jump off point for the ferry was a simple lakeside resort in the town of Talisay, Batangas. Guests were ferried to Taal crater island on small bancas and once on the island they went up to the crater on horse-back. Crater island was full of tourists that same day so it wasn't surprising to have "traffic jams" on horses up the trail. I nearly fell off my horse on the way down when my horse bucked along the trail... ahhhh... the occupational hazards I face...

boarding the bancas*

The next day was even more fun... They were scheduled to go to Pagsanjan. Along the way they had a stop at a community along Calamba, Laguna where they were treated to trolley rides along a seldom used railway. The residents know exactly what time the trains pass along their area. They got to experience a slice of the "home along phenomena". They had refreshments of coconut water prior to the ride.The guests the boarded the bus and moved to the Pagsanjan kick off point. Guests had the time of their lives shooting the rapids. 

shooting te rapids*

We had a short stop at the Manila Peninsula prior to dinner so the guests can freshen up. What a blast they had when on the way to dinner at People's Palace in Greenbelt, we loaded them all into jeepneys. Everywhere they went, they were treated to Israeli food and for some of the guests, they had specific food requests for Kosher food. 

hamming it up*

Little did they know there was more fun in store the next day as they were taking an early flight to Boracay... I didn't tag along but judgin from the photos... I'd say it was epic...

enjoyig the beach*

*photos from Flyeast Philippines