STA. ROSA SOIREE

Sta. Rosa de Lima

The  Covid -19 pandemic has taken its toll on everybody. It's a great equalizer. Families whether rich or poor in whatever community it decides to rear its ugly head  in, has suffered from its fatal effects. Others have been more fortunate to have kept their families intact. For those like me, who has suffered the loss of a dear one, we try our best to live through the pain.

Lloyd, Ness, Febe and me at Nuvali

I have refrained from making blog entries for the past year or so having to cope with my misery. I am glad , however, that an invitation to Sta. Rosa, Laguna came through my heritage -loving friends. Naturally, I jumped at the chance to breathe fresh Laguna air and travel at least 40 kilometers or so away from the city center. However, this seemingly simple act was not without its challenges. One of the invitees from our group suffered a stroke three days prior to our planned trip and had to be confined. Thankfully, through help and prayers, she is currently in stable condition and placed under observation for a week.

party of four at Starbucks photo by Lloyd Rafols

That being said, four of us: Ness Sembrero, Febe Sevilla, Lloyd Anthony Nuestro Rafols and myself met near the City Hall of Pasay for an early leisurely drive to Sta. Rosa.  Lloyd at the wheel, we motored to the Sta. Rosa exit through Greenwood city that leads to the Paseo de Sta. Rosa and Nuvali areas. We ended up at Starbucks in Nuvali. Protocols for dining in were strictly observed as we were ordering our coffee and some baked goodies thanks to Ness. I brought home-made sandwiches and we decided to have our coffee al-fresco. Amidst, peals of laughter and sparkling conversation we were taking groufies with Lloyd's  tripod set-up until we were shocked to realized that our stay there extended to nearly lunch time. Surprisingly, there were no huge crowds typically found on a Saturday morning at Nuvali but because of the time constraints there are no photos of us near the Koi pond nor any other scenic spots in the area.

Facade of Sta. Rosade Lima Church

From there, we went straight to the Sta Rosa poblacion and parked at the designated parking area in the church patio. Since it was lunch time, we meandered around the old Sta Rosa town looking for places to dine but settled for the ever-reliable Jollibee. Again, most of the people were ordering take away and so we settled at two tables. The usual fare  was uneventful and we passed our time with our animated banter until it  was evident that we needed to freshen up and change for the get-together. We made our way back to the church passing through the ancestral home where we were to have dinner.

Lloyd in front of the retablo of the church

We saw the  set-up taking place and the choir practicing but we needed to get dressed for our own photo opportunity.  We asked the church volunteers where we could freshen up and they obligingly showed us the rest room area. At around three o'clock, the four of us friends were dressed in our Filipino attire. Need I say we were making heads turn? People thought there was a wedding about to take place after a funeral cortege had left. That was hilarious! One lady asked if I was picked to light up the Advent wreath during Mass. People were starting to arrive in church for the Mass at 4:30.  True to form, the other invitees were arriving in their finery. We were given a designated section of the church for us to hear Mass together. Ness Sembrero, Febe Sevilla, Lloyd Anthony Nuestro Rafols, Faviola Torres Hidalgo, Locel Tumlos, Arlene Arguel, Willy Bas and Nonia Tiongco in her authentic vintage terno and myself were warmly welcomed by the Cura Paroco Fr. Mario P. Rivera before the final blessing. That settled the thought balloons of the parishioners who looked at us quizzically. Me, I was just thankful to have heard Mass and received the Eucharist after the prolonged quarantine lock-downs lasting two years. I had learned to content myself before that with daily on-line Masses and spiritual communions. Grateful to God for that!

Febe in her black and white finery

For purposes of propriety, no photos were allowed inside the heritage house. It is a well- preserved bahay-na-bato that's much lived-in  by the descendants of the previous builder/owner. Let's just say it shows the privileged lifestyle of generations of one of the city's  founding fathers. Walking through the home with its usual sections, we ended up in the azotea descending towards the garden where our dinner was held. Oh, how we were welcomed by the three Pinoy kings, Johnson Bernardo, Maestro Jose Benigno Salvador and Lito Ligon! It was nice to see familiar faces smiling through the face masks and face shields and plenty of fist bumps in lieu of the beso- besos.

Faviola Torres Hidalgo in a modern Terno pant suit

my OOTD (photo by Lloyd Rafols)

Once guests were comfortably seated, the ceremonies began with a live national anthem  sung by the Primo Vocal Chamber accompanied by the Rosenian Quintet Rondalla.  Maestro Jose Benigno Salvador was the host for the evening assisted by Faviola Torres Hidalgo. The evening was kicked off with door-prizes from the other attendees. There were two rounds of prizes from the generous donations of the attendees. I won a book and nothing else... Others were fortunate to go home with original artworks, books, keepsakes and home decor... I won a book - wait, I said that already! I'm not lucky with winning raffles... Maybe, next year!

Ness in a barong terno blouse and pencil pants set

People had come from all-over Luzon, so when it was getting late, some had to take their leave, but not before Marichelle Santos and the irrespresible Bing Tubid made their dramatic entrance. They had come from a previous engagement. The dinner setting in the garden of the Zavalla heritage house was immaculate with white table cloth and blue carnival glass, gilded cuttlery and blue Ming inspired dinner ware to match the mood-lighting for effect. From time to time the rondalla would play Filipino  music and the choir would break out in kundiman. I wish I had met the other members of the choir. I only know Lemuel Santos and Arwin Arca Arceo who rendered solo numbers but other members were quite vocally equipped as well. I was swooning under the starlit evening when Bituin'g Marikit  was sung... then the clouds moved in by time they got to singing Ang Gabi'ng Payapa. By then the nippy evening breeze was making me sleepy.

Primo Vocal Chamber

Rosenian Rondalla Quintet

Primo Vocal Chamber

Amidst the fine food of Bulaqueno heritage cuisine served by Ferdi Talbenito's Bistro Maloleno and the jovial conversations with friends long-missed, the evening had progressed so fast. There was Tinola which I could not try because of my allergy but I feasted on Bulacan Hamon, Lengua, there was Pancit Buko, a seafood medley and Paella. Dessert was cassava cake and pichi-pichi and  Madam Natz Ocampo's delicate pastillas all lovingly wrapped in the heritage paper filligree called pabalat. We were carefully umwrapping the sweet morsels of candied milk and sugar to preserve Ms. Natz' prized papel-de-Hapon wrappers to be made into bookmarks or framed in shadow boxes. Kape'ng Bigas was being offered after dinner which I declined gracefully.  Tita Cora and Tito Bernie Manimbo were present and later on dancing with Lito Ligon. C'mon, she's not a board member of PBT for nothing... you didn't expect that, or you didn't know? 

Maestro Jose Benigno Salvador, Earl Gamboa, and myself

If it had been under normal circumstances, I'm certain there would have been more people signifying their intention to attend. Notwithstanding this wretched pandemic, this soiree  went beyond anybody's expectations. If anything, it reinforced my dwindling Christmas spirit in these dismal times. I'm still truly blessed  to experience this gathering of a truly Pinoy celebration complete with singkaban parols and native dress. That makes my Advent Season truly significant! 

group photo of guests

MALIGAYA'NG PASKO AT MANIGO'NG BAGO'NG TAON SA LAHAT!!!

* group photos of guests, choir and quintet are not mine and credited to their respective owners

Online Finds

 I got some stuff to augment my calorie deficit nutrition plan to lose the quarantine pounds and I'm so happy about my purchases from friends that will last me a few days. 

Maricar Anatalio sent me her now famous Sinantolan  and Everlasting while Knorr Baldovino brought me Keso'ng puti. Since I want to eat a light dinner,  I made everlasting and keso'ng puti sandwiches. The keso'ng puti was freshly skimmed and wrapped in the usual banana leaf parcels. I like that it's not crumbly but pliant, almost like a buratta, that compliments the Everlasting's savory peppery flavour. 

Now, Everlasting is a pretty common dish hence the name. Made of minced meat, hard-boiled egg slivers, pickle relish, capsicum, carrots, onion and garlic, the dish is arranged in tin oval pans (llaneras) and steamed until it has the consistency of a meatloaf or embotido. So it's other monicker is Marikina meatloaf. Maricar Anatalio's version definitely complements the creamy local cheese from Laguna with its well balanced peppery goodness. The keso'ng puti is the perfect accompaniment  that adds a salty note to the everlasting. 

I wrote about the Sinantolan in a previous post. Santol, a.k.a. as cotton fruit is where the dish gets its name from. The rinds are grated and cooked in coconut cream mixed and sauteed in garlic, onions, anchovy or shrimp paste and a little fish sauce. The dish is cooked until the cream renders it's oil. It was about time I re-ordered.

Tabaron has a humorous etymology. Taba (fat) + chicharon (crispy pork rind). You know you're getting the best of both worlds! This version got the attention of Manila's Yorme Isko Moreno. I tried a few pieces and then I ordered a stash of three more packs. That doesn't mean I'm giving up my calorie deficit, though...

PASIG'S PLEASANT PLACES

I have been remiss with my blogging yet again... It was partly because I have been hogging the social media platform too much and also because I'm getting a bad addiction to YouTube. I know, mea culpa! Fortunately, the Advocates for Heritage Preservation announced the first tour for the year 2020. I couldn't pass up the opportunity to not post anything.

The Department of Tourism got in touch with me to guide for Secretary Berna Romulo Puyat to promote the Pasig River Ferry. Originally, the tour was supposed to be a high-profile tour with three mayors, industry bigwigs and media personalities in attendance. After the initial contact, the tour was postponed for a later date and resumed, thankfully, sans mayors, media and the fanfare that goes along with it. 

We started the river tour  from the San Joaquin station of Pasig and went downstream towards Escolta station after which, we proceeded by way of E-trikes to Intramuros after dusk for Instagramable photos of the walled city, Jones Bridge and some beautiful river-scapes  along the cruise route. This was how I met Jesse de Lara and Quin Cruz, both young and passionate advocates and silent members of AHP.  I initiated exploratory talks with AHP and Quin and Jesse so we can conduct a heritage tour of the City of Pasig with other members. 

I have been going to Pasig as a child and all through my adult years. My relatives had a parcel of land in Santolan where they planted fruit trees and lush gardens tended by my aunt. We would spend important holidays in Pasig where we would play softball in the rice fields, fly kites and swim in the tumana . We would spend Holy Week and Christmas in Sto. Tomas de Villanueva subdivision and go to Montalban or Antipolo to cool off for summer. The house and lot were sold when my cousins migrated to the US. Plenty of memories there... and so it was another  chance to open up my vault of remembrances on a heritage tour but this time in the city proper. Kapasigan they called it!

Situated at least 12km from the city of Manila, the once sleepy town has emerged as a commercial district replete with pockets of recreational facilities, high end establishments and glitzy malls. It is a far cry from the pre-colonial markets established by the Chinese traders who sailed upstream and landed in an wide embankment during pre colonial times. The name Pasig is suggested to have come from the Sanskrit word "Pasegas" which was a sandy embankment where Chinese traders landed and where they brought their products further inland to a market area. Pasegas also means whirlpool or eddy where one body of water flows into another.

Immaculate Conception Cathedral

We arrived in Pasig City at six in the morning. Too early for our 9:00a.m. call time. We went to the church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception and initially parked in the patio. Built in 1575, the present structure was built in 1639 and believed to have been completed before the British invasion of 1762. It was said to have been converted  stables and then re-purposed again at the end of the interlude in 1764. The stone convent was built by Fr. Felix Trillo from 1722 to 1747. The church was restored in 1897 and the roof replaced with galvanized iron by Fr. Simon Barroso. The church facade is done in the neo-classical  and colonial style with triglyphs separating three levels. The first  and second levels have arched doors and windows with small rosette windows on the second level. The third level is a triangular pediment with a central niche and supported by Doric columns and topped by a Renaissance-influenced mini-balustrade lacing the raking cornice. A massive five level belfry is on the left side of the church.* The church is currently under restoration. Major areas of the church have succumbed to "improvements". the grounds have been cemented over in grassy areas.

church patio

Another area that has changed is the Rizal Plaza. Typical of the standard prescribed lay-out of Spanish towns, the elite's homes, the Church and the government buildings revolve around the town square. Given that Pasig is one of the oldest areas established by the Spaniards, the plaza still plays an active role in the Pasigueno's life. This monument honors the memory of our National Hero, Jose P. Rizal and it harks back to the time when Rizal had an  the entire province named after him.  One of the streets  fronting the Concepcion mansion has been elevated and now serves as a multi-purpose area for Zumba sessions.

There was a time when I and a friend worked on a calendar for the San Miguel Corporation. Our Art Director for the project was no less than National Artist for Production Design Salvador Bernal. One of the photos used for the calendar was taken at the colonnaded veranda of the Concepcion Mansion with aspiring actress Vicky Suva as our model. So I had very vivid recollections of the mansion prior to it becoming a functioning museum. Built in 1937 by Don Fortunato Concepcion who also served as town mayor, the mansion was also commandeered by the Japanese and upon liberation on 19 February, 1945 an American Flag was hoisted on the mirador of the famed home. By the 1980's the home was purchased by the local government to be used as a library and museum. Renovated in the year 2000, it was fully devoted as a museum. Fully renovated in 2008, it was renovated and re-opened to much fanfare.

Pasig Museum a.k.a. Concepcion Mansion

The tour group them proceeded to the Collegio del Buen Consejo museum directly across the museum. Built in 1909 under the initiative of Mother Superior Consuelo Barcelo, O.S.A.,  and placed under the supervision of Sr. Theresa de Jesus Andrada. The convent dedicated to Our Lady of Good Counsel and was used as a refuge of those evading the Japanese atrocities of WWII, the convent received considerable damage during the liberation in 1945 and restored in 1948. The school and convent now has a small museum that features memorabilia of the order.

Colegio del Buen Consejo Museum

We then proceeded back to the church across the street that has its own museum on the history and the progress of Christianity in Pasig City.  The long hallway was completely covered in a mural on one side that had an audio commentary of the vignettes included in the mural. Across it were glass panels that included a timeline of the history of Pasig and the church. 

Immaculate Conception Museum

We then proceeded to Bahay na Tisa which is a much lived in Bahay-na-Bato a few block off the church and plaza. How it miraculously survived cataclysms and war is a wonder! The home is 174 years old and done in the style of Spanish Antillean style very evident of colonial homes. Built by Don Cecilio Tech y Cabrera in the 1850s this gem of a home has served many purposes at certain points in time. It was called Freedom House as well since opposite factions were able to use the house as a venue for meetings during Martial Law. Other than an official barangay headquarters, it was also used as art exhibit space and location shoot for period movies. Recently, it was honored by the Pasig City local government and the National Historical Commission with a historical marker citing the house as a cultural treasure. Descendants of  Don Cecilio still take residence in this gem of a home and they actually do small restorations on the  banggera, capiz windows and the persianas.

Kuya Mel

Bahay na Tisa

Tito and Aye

Vica en la azotea

By this time, we had worked up an appetite and we proceeded to Tapsihan ni Vivian  for lunch. This unpretentious restaurant serves up good food for very affordable prices. They have a great variety of Filipino food presented Carinderia style. I was really impressed! Torta congrejo meal with a fried egg, a can of soda and... get this, lato (sea grapes or green caviar) salad was a little less than 250.00 and I didn't even get to use my senior card!  The restaurant has a bright dining area with glass panels and a mezzanine for added tables. It can easily fit a huge number of diners except in the evening when it gets really full, I heard.

Rizal High School museum

By half past one p.m. we all loaded up on the vans and drove to Rizal High School touted as the largest secondary school in the world. The huge campus has its own oval for sports development and a mini museum to honor its roster of distinguished alumni. Current teachers estimate a total of 14,000 students currently enrolled in the school. The Rizal High School now also has the distinction of having the longest mural in one of the buildings depicting the development of Pasig city from pre-colonial times to the present. Unfortunately, the way to the oldest surviving building in the school was locked on this Saturday visit, but one could not miss the numerous additional buildings and halls carrying the names of past mayors and civil servants who obviously want a part of their legacy to be remembered. 

the blue team

The tour would not have been complete without a visit to Dimas-alang Bakery in Pasig. Now owned by Mr. Manolo Lozada, a brother of the famous violinist Carmencita Lozada. The bakery is over a hundred years old. It was established in 1919 and still much patronized by the locals in Pasig. Their baked products have  a distinct old-world reputation. Among the products I personally enjoyed are their brazo de mercedes, di ko akalain, pandesal, ensaymada and bonete. Incidentally, Mr Lozada is a prolific painter and antique collector.  Its location contributed much to its longevity. I remember going to my friend's  (Cata Cruz) house right beside the bakery. Sadly, my friend has passed on and their house is now an ukay-ukay.  AHP members had to stop by the bakery and experience their wares. It was an eyeful to see our tour members carrying brown bags full of steaming hot pan de sal and monay coming out of that bakery. It was one of the tours that ended the earliest since we didn't actually have to travel that far... but it was so well organized and the compact group was easy to manage despite new members and kids tagging along. Thank you to Jesse de Lara and Quin Cruz both heritage warriors of Pasig and Tito Encarnacion, Johnson Bernardo and Lito Ligon for doing the ground work in making the tour a success.

the red team

ADIOS, SONNY!

The Advocates for Heritage Preservation members have suffered a great loss in the person of Martin Imperial Tinio. His passing comes as a sudden blow just when the newly-elected Mayor of Manila has initiated great strides in recapturing Manila's past glory.

Sonny Tinio, to those who do not know him and may have not had the pleasure of making his acquaintance, was a well-spring of knowledge as far as history is concerned. He was a respected authority on heritage in its many forms and permutations and an engaging author and expert on heritage homes and landmarks and monuments.

Enjoying a hot cup of Arroz Caldo in Bu;acan

Born to a life of pedigree and privilege, his commentaries are peppered with knowledge that comes from a background of personal experience as well as years of living the life of the upper crust. He can look unassuming in his simplicity but details in his person will make you look twice. It's in the nitty gritty where he snatches your second glances... a silver ring will serve as a kerchief slide... a walking cane will have a huge globe of tiger's eye as a finial... silver filigree adorns his velveteen alfombra slippers where the ordinary folk only have embroidery... nothing but nothing slips his discerning eye for detail.

Always a favorite guest speaker and subject matter expert in fora and discussions, listeners wait with baited breath for his irreverent but relevant opinions. He is usually forgiven because his observations, more often than not, are correct! There is always something new to learn from the man. And this is why people attend his numerous lectures and book signing. 

Sr. Tinio signing a copy of his coffee table book Ancestral Houses

He is an indispensable resource person as far as the Intramuros Administration and the National Commission for Culture and the Arts are concerned. He has acted as consultant, curator, of many a museum. He is a popular author of coffee table books on architecture, design and art and culture. He is a gourmand and an epicure -an avowed foodie with a discerning palate. His Facebook  posts of food is a great testament to this fact. His tongue in cheek attitude to art criticism is often gleaned from his displeasure at not finding a historical marker to a much touted heritage structure..."Wala'ng marker?... wala'ng kwenta!" after which guffaws and peals of laughter can be heard from his companions.

We'll miss you, Senor!

ALIWAN SA SOX AT MANILA FAME

It was a hectic Saturday morning for me last 27, April, 2019. I was invited by some friends to have a market visit to the Manila Fame Show that assembles manufacturers and exporters of exquisite Philippine products geared for the international markets. 

However, the Manila Fame visit coincided with two other events so I decided to have a go of it all in one concentrated effort. My first stop was at the Department of Tourism sponsored TRY SOX at the activity area of Robinson's Place Ermita. I was at the area around mid-day to experience what the regional event has to offer its visitors. SOX is a diminutive for Region 12 comprised of  three areas: South Cotabato, Saranggani and General Santos.

TRY SOX was a surprising exposition. They had actual members of indigenous communities doing their arts and crafts demonstrations in the center of the exhibits. On sale in the booths were T'nalak cloth, Inaul malongs, tubaws, T'boli beads and belts, B'laan clothing, etc. I meandered around to see what items I could get my hands on. I managed to get some contact numbers from the exhibitors in the event I would not be able to come back to finalize my purchases. In these expos, it would be wise to roam around for good bargains before you shell out your hard earned cash. I did find very finely beaded tops but the seller had gone for lunch and I had to leave for my meet up with my friends at the Manila Fame show. It was nearly lunch time so I decided to get a bite to eat before proceeding to World Trade Center..

Obra Nicolas basket with leather trim

When I got to the lobby  of the Manila Fame Show, I saw Annie Obeya who arrived earlier than me.  At an event like this, it isn't unusual to see celebrities and luminaries in the art, design, showbiz, fashion and even the paralegal industry. Before we even got inside the exhibits, I bumped into Ito Kish, whose home decor has already made a mark in the global market and Atty. Lorna Kapunan, with whom I conducted tour guiding  activities as she hosted international lawyers in the past. Our first stop was at the booth of Tina Campos, jewelry designer and friend of Annie where she gets her fashion accessories from. I purchased a leather trimmed basket from good friend and bag designer Marcelo Alonzo, whose Obra Nicolas booth was swarmed with buyers. His items were a steal owing to the fact that it was the last day of the affair and they didn't want inventory left. 

Marawi fabrics and beadworks

A few minutes later we were joined by Ace Burwell and Lloyd Anthony Nuestro Raffols and Pheeyah Salones. We went roaming around the huge expanse of WTC to soak in all of the lovely items on sale. Unfortunately, I didn't have an unlimited amount on hand to purchase everything I want. It would be a bit of  stretch to say I wanted it all... I actually did! I just couldn't afford it let alone have enough space in my house to store them. I also met Sabrina Artadi whose show, Sabrina's Kitchen I used to follow on TV. I also had a glimpse of Tweety De Leon Gonzalez, Dzee Gervacio and Marie Martinez whose acrylic bags were quite interesting. By the time we had had enough of shopping, my friends had bought clothes, bags, indigenous fabrics, home ware and what not. Davao based fashion designer Edgar Buyan had very eye-catching separates done in digital prints of tribesmen and women and turn of the century paintings emblazoned on shirts, jackets, skirts, pants and shorts. Nothing fit me, unfortunately. 

The sun was setting and we decided to drop by the Aliwan Fiesta next door at the Star City complex. The Aliwan Fiesta is a yearly event which brings together all of the regional festivals. Contingents from all regions congregate in Manila to present their Reyna ng Aliwan Candidates, their parade floats and their street dance performers culminating in a coronation ceremony for the year's winning beeauty queen. There are also food  concessionaires and regional handicrafts for sale in the  Aliwan Market area. We got hungry and decided to go for an early dinner at the Harbor Square area. We tried the food at Orange and were fairly surprised that the food was pretty good despite a friendly price range. 

It was still quite early so our group decided to go out for dessert. we decided to try out the new restaurant operated by Tesoro's aptly called A Mabini's. On our drive towards A Mabini street we chanced upon the  ongoing street dance parade of Aliwan Fiesta and was captivated by the array of color and glitz of the ongoing parade.

Tesoro's converted their Mabini outlet into an unpretentious restaurant. They have a satellite store in the ground floor but more of the space was for the restaurant. We tried the ensaymada stuffed with mantecado ice cream, the salty melted cheese was a perfect foil for the sweet ice cream, such a perfect dessert. The Leche'ng Flan (yes, you read it right) was more like a creme brulee with its caramel top slightly burnt. Before we decided to call it a day, we went up to the Namayan restaurant on the roof deck to check out the outlet operated by a bed and breakfast operated by a lessee. After that I decided to get home and come back another day for the entrees.

myself on the foreground, Anna, Acey< Annie, Lloyd and Pheeyah

THE GUNS ARE SILENT

I was very fortunate to have been invited to a very special trip this past weekend (6 -7 April, to be exact). You see, my father and uncles were veterans who fought in World War II. When I was a little boy, I would go to Bataan and Corregidor with my father to commemorate Araw ng Kagitingan. I tagged along for a free ride and enjoyed going around the ship. It was a great adventure, but the significance of it was lost on me.

Navy in Gala uniform

When the Titos N Titas invited me to join them on this trip, I naturally jumped at the opportunity to be a part of the journey. This time, I had come full circle! My father had passed on in 1988 at ripe old age of  seventy. That means that during the Japanese occupation in 1941 my father was at the prime of his youth at 23 years old. This celebration was a very sentimental one for me. I would not have missed it for anything!

Members of the veterans 

We were a group of thirty five people who confirmed our desire to join at least three contingents of Philippine Veterans and their families that were to travel from Sangley Point in Cavite City to Corregidor island - WWII's Last Stand! The fiercest and most brutal fighting for our sovereignty happened here. I can only cringe in horror as my father and uncles related their story of torture and suffering at the hands of the Japanese Kempeitai. I joined the trip because it was my sentimental journey in honoring their memory.

BRP Bacolod City - LS 550

There were two pick up points for our group: one was in Centris for those coming from Quezon City, the other one that I was in would meet in Makati/EDSA. By two in the afternoon, we were on our way to Cavite City. There were fourteen people in our van and we made our way to Sangley Point in about an hour.  We made a quick side trip to a close relative of Ron and Lea Caliboso, who in eagerness to entertain us, prepared food a day before the said trip. Feny had to store the local delicacies in her fridge and shared the pancit to her neighbors lest it got spoiled. So when we arrived at her home, we were surprised at the generous spread of food she prepared for us. There was Samala's kakanin and slices of watermelon and pineapple,ice cream,  soda and pancit which we devoured with gusto. After such a heavy merienda, we then motored a few blocks down to the pier to board the BRP Bacolod City (LS-550) that was to take us to the island overnight.

the circle of 35 on board the ship

I was wondering why the call time was so early in spite of an ETD that was past midnight. I should have known that the registration of about a thousand and five hundred pax would indeed cause some form of delay. Busloads of contingents arrived from the south. Red Cross volunteers and health workers from Cavite City along with their ambulances were on call. SAF members, enlisted men, plebes, a military brass band, silent drill members participating in the ceremony were present in the registration area for the ship's manifest. The bedlam was only temporary. Actually, I was thankful we did arrive early as we got first dibs on our area in the ship. It was better than being at the back of the ship's ramp where there was no shelter. People were still arriving until nine o'clock in the evening. The long wait allowed us to settle down and put our stuff together. There was plenty of time for us to explore the other areas of the military camp. The staff and personnel were very friendly and accommodating. By two a.m., the sirens blew and the announcements were made for last boarding and we were on our way at sea.

view  from the port side while docking on the North side of  Corregidor

At daybreak, the ship had started to slow down and a glorious shoreline that was Corregidor's north shore welcomed the ship's arrival. Corregidor a.k.a. as The Rock, is under the jurisdiction of the province of Cavite City in the province of Cavite. It sits strategically at the mouth of Manila Bay dividing the entrance to the bay into the North and South channels. It is about 6.5 km long and 2 km at its widest part. The total land area is about 900 hectares and its highest elevation is about 590 ft above sea level. Corregidor island and four other smaller islands have always been heavily defended by colonizers as it is a sentry way in protecting the city of Manila from its invaders. The Cavite Tourism Council gathered our contingent into two coasters to take us around the tadpole shaped island and view its historic sites.

before disembarking

Corregidor Island is divided into four areas: Tailside, Bottomside, Middleside and Topside. The Tailside is where the air strip to the island was constructed in the 1920's. Kindley Field is named after an American aviator of the US Army Air Corps. The Bottomside, on the other hand, is where the army docks are located and also the part that connects the Tailside to the rest of the larger portions of the island. East of the Bottomside is the Malinta Hill which separates the bottomside from the Tailside. 

Middleside Barracks

Our first stop was the Middleside Barracks where the US built a two story complex of quarters for officers and enlisted men. There were facilities for a hospital for enlisted and non enlisted personnel, a PX, and two schoolhouses: one for Filipino and another for American schoolchildren. What stands on the spot now is a bleak reminder of the ravages of war: twisted steel and crumbling walls of what might have been a glorious American colonial style building. 

Battery Way

We then proceeded to Battery Way. Built into a concrete fortified pit, the battery is significant as the four guns within its radius were the last guns to fire under heavy bombardment by the Japanese forces. Seventy percent of gunnery personnel had been reduced to casualty. Major William Massello, Jr. under whose command were inflicting heavy damage on the Japanese attackers had been wounded and held on to one of the guns as its breach block froze aftrer eleven straight hours of use. He was captured and imprisoned by Japanese forces and sent to a hell ship that brought prisoners of war to Yokohama, Japan. Walter "Pinch" Kwiecinski was the last Sargeant to fire the last gun. They managed a direct hit on a Japanese landing craft. but the battle of Corregidor was lost. He also became a POW and was shipped off along with the others.

*Group photo by Annie Grace Nicandro Obeya

The next stop was at Battery Hearn which sits on a high promontory on the Topside. The two guns could do a 360 degree turn on that elevation ready to fire at invading ships at any time.Unfortunately, because both Smith Guns had a circular base that served as perfect bulls eye target, both fell easily from airborne fire by Japanese Pilots. Bombs decommissioned these guns that stood no chance. Heavy bombardment caused an explosion in the battery and the underground armory. Battery Hearn is named after Brig. Gen. Clint C. Hearn who commanded the Harbor defenses of Manila Bay and Subic in 1919.

the Lighthouse

The next stop was the Topside. We were deposited at the Light house area where we were allowed to meander along the small stores and souvenir shops. The light house is the second oldest light house built in the country (the oldest being the farola in Tondo, Manila) dating back to 1853 after the recommendation of Governor Pascual Enrile de Alcedo. It directed ships towards the entrance of Manila Bay guiding said ships to the Port of Manila. By the time the Americans settled in the country the light house had fallen into neglect and disrepair. A directive to improve the system had been put into effect around 1903 with the newly established Bureau of Coast Guard and Coast Guard. They added three more buildings flanking the lighthouse that served as the quarters for the light house operators, a kitchen and latrines. By 1908, Corregidor Island became a military installation that was known as Fort Mills.

the Peace Dome

A short walk down a cemented path brought us to a series of buildings that formed the main complex of Corregidor Island. I immediately proceeded to the Peace Dome that immortalized the fallen from WWII. At exactly 12 noon, the sunlight pierces through the dome and lights up the center of the circular marble altar. further down the walk is a series of marble panels that detail the  campaigns the Americans fought along with the Filipinos and other nationalities in the Pacific. The fighting in the island was one of the most intense in the world and Filipino and American resistance against the Japanese was so concentrated, it delayed the further progress of the Japanese forces to the rest of Southeast Asia and Australia for another four to six months.

the Eternal Flame of Freedom

Obligatory photos were taken at the Eternal Flame of Freedom art installation overlooking the ocean on the south side. The twelve meter structure made of Corten Steel was designed by artist Aritides Dimetrios and is supposed to symbolize the struggles of Americans and Filipinos and the ideals for freedom for future generations. Solar lamps illuminate the installation at night.

Arlene Cejar posing for a rear view of Cine Corregidor 

Retracing our steps on the right side, one sees the rear part of Cine Corregidor. The last movie screened on the cinema before its destruction was Gone With The Wind and across it is the Pacific War Memorial Museum. The museum is a veritable treasure trove of  war memorabilia: found objects, war medals, guns and ammunition, old photos of an era that espoused courage and freedom. It was a very moving experience. The last time I felt that way was when I went to Hiroshima Peace Dome and Museum. The experience that devastated Japan after the American retaliation and forced them to surrender to the Americans.

Mile Long Barracks

The ruins of the Mile Long Barracks complex still stands as imposing as ever. The three storey structure was said to house the soldiers on the Topside of the island. Mc Arthur was believed to have had his office in the edifice as well as his quarters here. Constructed to be hurricane proof, the former barracks was believed to be only a third of a mile long. However, the soldiers would walk its three floors and that equaled 1,520 feet. Ergo, the monicker stuck. 

Erlie Querubin on the steps of the Bachelor Officers Quarters

The parade grounds and nine hole golf course was in this level fronting the the cinema and the Bachelor Officers Quarters. along the pathways are glorious trees and greenery and a smattering of  memorials to the bold servicemen who gave up their lives in pursuit of freedom. This area is also where the tracks of the electric operated tramway ends on that portion of the island which winds down to Malinta Tunnel.

Titos N' Titas after brunch on a Sunday

Lorcha Dock

The coaster collected us and we went back down to the Bottomside area by the Lorcha Dock where Gen. Douglas McArthur left the island en route to Australia and back to the US to plan his return to the Philippines to liberate us from Japan. It was brunch when we got down to Mc Arthur Cafe. Not a bad idea to have something to eat. At P350.00/pax, one can have a fill of rice and meat and veggies and chicken with drinks to boot. Close by is the San Jose Church, a quaint little church slightly hidden by lush greenery and lots of trees. Apparently, the church had been upgraded from its original wooden structure and is said to have served its spiritual purpose for the residents of Bgy. San Jose and soldiers in the area. The water in this area was clear but one can see traces of plastic and some discards perhaps brought in by the tides. My one regret was not being able to swim in the ocean owing to an early departure for Sangley Point slated at two p.m. Once we got back to the ship, the captain announced that departure was moved to four p.m. 

San Jose Church

I was nestled in my area of the ship so I had no compulsion to move and go back for a swim. We bided our time on board the ship. And then, the party began! The Philippine Navy Seabees is a band composed of enlisted men that just loves to play music. They entertained us with songs ranging from standards, Original Pilipino Music, Pinoy Rock, disco and folk. Their piece d' resistance was when someone requested for them to sing Bohemian Rhapsody by Queen.  Feigning unpreparedness at first, the supposedly hesitant members of the band broke out into the opening lyrics in a melodious harmony and went on to rock the stage with high pitched Freddy Mercury chorus of soloist and second voices. By the third set of songs, members of my group and a random group of women and even senior citizens were dancing the hot, sticky afternoon away, unmindful of the sweat and stifling heat.

The Philippine Navy Seabees

Before we knew it, the sun had started to set and the cool afternoon breeze started to flow. pretty soon we were docking at the pier of Sangley Point. We then proceeded to Chef Foo restaurant in Cavite City for a hot meal and then it was time to head home.

The guns are silent now... My journey was complete! 

I'd like to express my sincerest thanks to the local government of Cavite, the Philippine Navy,  the Cavite City Tourism Council, Bhel Asinas Galvez Esquierdo for laying down the ground work for three straight months without expecting anything in return, Mabelle Tenorio for arranging the logistics of transport and food, Ms Fenny who welcomed us into her cozy home, Ronel and Lea Caliboso for their van support and to the fun and endearing company of the other participants: Emman dela Pena, Wanda Ole of Iloilo and Bacolod, respectively; Dodi Escartin, Lin Deres, Corazon Victoria, Annie Grace Nicandro Obeya, Jorge Ferrer, Edwin de Guzman, Willy Bas, Allan Pardilla Martinez, Jezreel Gonzalez JR Nino Patao, Pie Burwell, Arlene Cejar, Tim Delez, Fritzie Ramos, Aisah Basuel, Ness Sembrero, Elisha Rico, Toppie Torres, Amy Cristobal, Emy Dulay, Deck Pantia, Dennis Roland S. Castanos, Mary Ann and Noel Panaligan, Febe Sevilla, Leah Amante Villapando, Erlie Querubin, Faviola Torres Hidalgo. This would not have been as much fun without you there...