The "Pen" Promotes the Philippines

On a recent assignment, I was tasked to show guests of the Manila Peninsula Hotel around Intramuros. Part of the itinerary was sent to me via text message and I was mildly surprised that some of the stops to be made were not the usual tourist routes. It seemed odd that the other sites to be visited were more artisanal than the usual tourist souvenir shops.

Aussie journalists viewing  Eugene  Jarque's artwork

It was odd but those were the orders so I decided to dutifully stick to the itinerary. Then when I, on board the Jeepney Tours vehicle stopped at the Manila Pen, I realized this was no ordinary tour. It was part of the Manila Peninsula's corporate responsibility program which invites journalists from different countries to visit the Philippines and promote the country by showcasing the best of what we have to offer.

Lilliana Manahan's installation

On this tour, I was introduced to four Australian journalists and Peninsula Sydney's PR Director Sue as well as Peninsula Manila's PR Director, Maning Garchitorena. While waiting for the other members of the touring party, I had to adjust pretty quickly as everyone was pretty witty... punchlines were thrown at me from left, right and center. You'd have to be ready with funny repartee to catch up.

Manila Pen's table setting 

The stops after lunch were inspiring, to say the least. We went to the La Fuerza Compound in Pasong Tamo Extension. What was formerly a distillery has been re-purposed into different atteliers. The first stop was at Gallery where three young visual artists whose works we viewed. Lilliana Manahan had an installation of seventeen layers of drapes that were handpainted aside from smaller frames. Eugene Jarque who featured his frames of wooden collages and Mac Valdezco had her sculptural pieces in plaster and rope. Her pieces seemed like they came from archeological digs and looked very organic.

Mac Valdezco's sculpture

Manila Pen had an elaborate set-up for lunch that served updated versions of adobo, lumpia, and caldereta. I had all been so good that while the conversation kept flowing so did the food and the wine. But since I was on assignment, i begged off on the bubbly and stuck to the cucumber and sprite drink that was so refreshing on a hot summer day.

Manila Pen's menu card and cucumber sprite coolie

Ms Kaye Tinga (wife of former Pateros Mayor) and Andy Vasquez Prada of  W17 joined us for lunch after which we proceeded to their store within the compound. All the items in their store are unique finds albeit pricey. You get what you pay for, of course, but their items can hold your attention for hours. I fell in love with a dining table made of one humongous plank of acacia tree. It could've probably seated 20-25 people comfortably. I didn't dare to ask the price... If have to ask... you can't afford it.

W17 facade

Then we headed off to Dasmarinas Village for a private fashion show of Len Cabili's clothes and Natasha's jewelry. This tandem come from two distinct regional backgrounds. Len hails from the south and so early on she was interested in local weaves while Natasha comes from mixed  Ifugao/Australian parentage. It was so awe-inspiring that Michael McHugh of Mindfood Australia decided to feature both of the designers exclusively in his glossy mag.

The entire day was a lot of fun and an eye opener for the guests courtesy of one of the better hotels in Manila. The following day, the guests were whisked off to Amanpulo in Palawan for the weekend.  I'm so hoping they invite me again the next time around.

Andy Vasquez Prada and Mrs Kaye Tinga in thier store W17

Treats from La Cocina de Tita Moning

Two days prior to President Obama's historic visit to Manila, I was tasked by the Tourism Board of the Philippines through Jeepney tours to guide for a motley group of Australians who are in the business of promoting the Philippines as a tourist destination.

Legarda Mansion taken from The La Cocina de Tita Moning website*

The group was headed by Ms Gillian Salter. an Aussie who's lived and worked in Manila for two years with the Mandarin Hotel. This was her job before heading back home and working in the tourism industry.

La Inocencia (Felix Resureccion Hidalgo) photo from the website*

The full day tour started with Intramuros, then back to the hotel and in the afternoon was the trip to Malacanang palace and a dinner at Tita Moning's. However, because of the state visit of President Obama, the trip to the Malacanang Museum was not permitted. The Museum reserves the right to deny entry to visitors on various ocassions: in matters of national security, and of course for the state visit of the U.S. president.

Don Alejandro Legarda Sr.'s camera's (photo from Tita Moning's website)

The evening was balmy and the guests had dressed up for a well planned evening by the Tourism Board. La Cocina de Tita Moning is an ancestral home of the Legarda's. The much lived-in home has been converted into a fine dining restaurant by one of the scions of the clan. Dr. Legarda's clinic along with his collection of antique cameras is intact. The reading room has his collections of books. A marvelous idea, I should think, since the house has remained true to the original structure and contains a marvelous collection of paintings and artifacts owned by the family through the decades: Among them,  Hidalgo,  Juan Luna and Zalameda art pieces and antiques galore that are a feast for the eyes.

Zalameda's painting of sailboats in the main foyer of the mansion

That being said,  the menu was a feast for the senses. The Menu read like a traditional Spanish feast starting with a trio of salads: grilled eggplant salad with homemade vinaigrette and salted duck eggs; papaya salad with jamon serrano, fresh basil, carabao cheese and honey calamansi vinaigrette; fresh Kangkong salad with grilled peppers, caramelized walnuts and homemade walnut vinaigrette. For the entree we had whole baked Lapu-lapu, Tita Moning's chicken adobo, Paella Valenciana, Sauteed fresh vegetables, organic brown rice. The dessert served was fresh  fruit platter and Tita Moning's bread and butter pudding. 

So many reviews have been written about the food coming out of Tita Moning's kitchen mostly revived by chef Suzie Legarda-Montinola that I wouldn't even attempt to write about the gustatory treats in store for the diners. Yes... it's that good! You actually get what you pay for. But for me, it's the little details that make dining in La Cocina de Tita Moning always a delight. The drinks served at the patio prior to the mandatory tour of the house, and the little chit chat from the food servers who have been with the Legardas for years, and the atmosphere of dining in an ancestral home complete La Cocina de Tita Moning's old world charm. Some more Salsa Monja, please?

Paella Valenciana at Tita Moning's (photo from lifestyle.inquirer.net*)

LENT EVOLVING

Times have indeed changed! When I was a kid, Holy Week was a time of quiet reflection on the passion of Jesus Christ. While we were happy that summer vacation beckoned, the Holy Week was dreaded as there was  a long period of boredom from Holy Monday to Easter. There were no radio stations on air, no TV stations broadcasting, no playing outside, no making noise, no running around, no bathing after 3p.m. on Good Friday,  no malls opened, NOTHING! Only those who had family in the provinces left Manila for some rustic R&R.

Many years ago, a month before Holy Week, my travel plans would have been all set. Bags were prepared and packed including all the sunblock I needed and sets of swimwear were ordered and purchased for all the photo ops that were inevitably staged. There were at least 10 of us who planned the yearly Lenten trek to the beach until one by one friends left to reside in other countries.

When I got back from living in Los Angeles, I had grown more sedate and a few years older so I started staying in Manila during the Lenten season. At first it was paradise in Manila during the observance of Holy Week. Cars were few and far between. Traffic was nil. And it was calm and quiet... until recently.

I think residents in Manila started to catch on. A lot of them still take advantage of the lengthy holiday. Families with kids stlill end up going to the beaches or some cooler climes. This year, however, a lot of people opted to stay in Manila.

Miraculous Medal interior

My Lenten observance this year was marred by mobs of people doing their own practices. I opted to partake of the Holy Week Tridium by attending Mass. On Holy Thursday, the washing of the feet by Jesus is traditionally re-enacted and the Chrism Mass is rendered more dramatic bolstered by the local parishes' theater groups.

Miraculous Medal Altar of Repose

As opposed to last year's visit of 14 churches, this year I went to half that number.The Altars of Repose themselves have become spectacles of their own. My first visit was at the Miraculous Medal along San Marcelino street in Ermita, Manila. Not as crowded as I thought... that's a good thing. And then it got progressively worse in some churches.

Manila Cathedral facade

My next stop was at the Basilica Minore of the Black Nazarene in Quiapo. Mass had just concluded and the Blessed Sacrament had just been deposited into the Altar of Repose. The crowd was unexpectedly not as thick. At Sta. Cruz, where the Mass was still ongoing when we arrived, throngs of people prevented us from entering the church. Next option? Manila Cathedral!

Manila Cathderal Altar of Repose

Teeming with people, the Cathedral, recently re-opened in 9-April was dramatically lit on this summer night sky. Always, a marvel to behold, the Altar of Repose  was a glimmering mosaic of gold tiles with the imposing image of Christ. Very tastefully done, I must say. In the same area is San Agustin Church. But in order to get there, we had to navigate two blocks of the rest of Manila's populace. The enterprising  locals had merchandise lining the streets or under makeshift kiosks. It was bedlam in San Agustin. Their Altar of Repose was tastefully done. It evoked an old world charm that was not too ostentatious looking.

San Agustin

Then we went to the Assumption Parish in Leveriza. Malate. It was solemn, not a lot of visitors to this little, unpretentious parish. Their altar was on a little corner of the knave with a red carpet leading to the pews. After this, we went to the Malate Church dedicated to Our Lady of Remedies. Still undergoing retro-fitting, the church had a small Altar of Repose on the right transept of the church. there was also a lot of human traffic in the patio where an outdoor via crucis was installed.

Malate Church

Our final stop was at the chapel of St. Scholastica's College in Leon Guinto. As usual, it was a very simple set- up done by the sisters. A light trellis of bamboo slats woven with an assortment of white flowers that fit into one of the alcoves. Our religious obligation done, we just had to eat a pizza. By then we were famished.

St. Scholastica

A solemn Holy Week to every one.

* photos taken from Edhel's Facebook album.
** for some reason, I could not upload my photos.

LOREN LOVES THE LOOM

On a recent tour assignment to the National Museum, I was pleasantly surprised to find that there has been some refurbishing and restoration/ renovation going on in both buildings. There have been  new additions to the museum's collection and some new items have been placed either on permanent loan as well as some special exhibits.

In this instance, I did like the temporary exhibit of the Hibla ng Lahing Filipino Gallery on the fourth floor of the Museum of the Filipino People. Credit goes to Senator Loren Legarda for putting up a worthy collection on the Abel Ilokana in celebration of Women's Month. Clearly, the venerable senator has an advocacy for promoting things Filipino. Her fashion sense and style prompts her to don indigenous fabrics adapted to contemporary designs. She makes it a point to use locally woven fabrics for her clothes in most, if not all of her official functions.

The  Abel Ilokana collection, sadly, will only last until the 30th of March. However, I feel that it's a creative way of highlighting the Filipino's long tradition of weaving. The Abel or Inabel is a type of sturdy cloth that has been part of the Ilocos region's way of life. It is the product of both tradition and function as the northerners tried to keep the art of weaving alive by passing on the knowledge and skill to the younger generation. The art was passed on from grandmother to daughter to granddaughter as most families kept looms in their households.

Formerly limited only to women, the art of weaving became a means not only to keep women modestly and stylishly dressed, it was also a source of wealth and income to support their families. The abel cloth was used not only for clothing but also for their homes as these were turned into table runners, blankets and even mosquito nets (depending on the fine quality of the weave and fibers). The men, nowadays have taken to weaving as well! As a matter of economics, the men have slowly infiltrated the art form once dominated by the Ilokanas. Their strength allows them to make tighter woven fabrics that are also stronger.

There were indeed times in my childhood when my grandmother would often remind us in the  old Filipino proverb; "kung maigsi ang kumot, matuto'ng bumaluktot!" It was also a reference to a simpler way of life to try adapt to the curve-balls that life throws at you! How apropos, considering she would order blankets from Ilocos.  Once banned from being exported to Spain, the inabel was considered a threat to the local Spanish weaving industry. Its sturdiness survived the gale force winds that moved the Spanish Galleons on their long voyage across the Pacific and so it was preferred and often used as sails. Of course, until now, those blankets from Ilocos are prized for their sturdiness. 

I'm happy that Sen. Legarda was able to showcase the fine art of weaving in the north. Nowadays, the abel or inabel has taken on new applications for its use. Glad they re-discovered it before it becomes a dying art...

THE LEGACY OF A PROUD PEOPLE

It is always a privilege for me to accept guiding duties to the Banaue Rice Terraces. Recently, I was up there with four Dutch guests who were so awed by this man-made wonder. I myself am speechless at the high level of planning and construction the Ifugaos undertook to build this heritage site. And so showing it off to tourists is always a treat.

Other Asian countries like Japan and Mongolia have their own versions of the rice terraces. Ours is different, though. Consider the following facts:

• The Banaue Rice Terraces are more than 2,000 years old.
• The Banaue Rice Terraces soars to a height of anywhere from 3,000 -5,000 feet above sea level
• It covers a total land area of 400 square kilometers
• If laid end to end, it will run halfway around the globe
• The Banaue Rice Terraces supports its own ecosystem

What strikes me as extra-ordinary is that there could not have been that many Ifugao settlers in the Philippines many years ago. What our ancestors achieved must have taken immense effort and intensive manual labor on their part to build these rice paddies on the slopes of the Cordilleras.

Even with the encroachment of the Spanish and American colonizers, the indigenous people of the Cordilleras remained true to their culture and their inner resolve to not be subjugated by foreign rulers. They were the incessant mosquito that kept bugging the Spanish colonizers. They would plague the Spanish troops and their commanders with raids that left some of their victims headless. They protected their gold mines and built the rice terraces for survival.

Even until now, as the younger generation prefer to seek jobs in urban centers, those locals left behind make the effort to repair the damaged portions. The Banaue Rice Terraces remains, to this day, a testament to a proud people.

Old World Charm

Casa Vellejo facade

I was up in Baguio City after having spent time in Banaue and Sagada. I was with Dutch guests and we had arrived on the tail end of the Panagbenga festival; Baguio's take on the Rose Bowl parade celebrating the city's profusion of flowers.

lobby shot

It was crowded and noisy. Traffic was rerouted. Roads were blocked. Live performances were aplenty on make-shift stages on Session Road. And it seemed half of Metro Manila's population joined in on the fun. We had to double back to find the road leading to the hotel.

fireplace at the lobby

But when we got there... aaahhhh! We were surrounded by a cocoon of genteel charm!

the grand staircase

Casa Vallejo is situated on the lower slopes of Upper Session Road right where the SM Mall is located. Strategic, yes... but what a sight spoiler that mall is! In any case, it was nice that even after some controversy, Casa Vallejo was not sold to private individuals who would have demolished the historied walls of this quaint hotel.

signage in wood

Built in 1909 in the American Colonial style, Casa Vallejo reminds one of the an old, much lived in, comfortable home where wooden floors are polished and wooden beams glow in the amber light of chandeliers. Formerly a hill station under the American regiime, not much has changed in its over a century of existence. The cavernous dining hall named Hill Station (what else?) serves updated Filipino dishes and  has a great picture window view of the hills down below... now a hodge-podge of various roofing material (sad, really.)

exposed wooden beams in the dining hall

It's a blessing that residents of Baguio took to protesting what would have been a crime to our national heritage - the demolition of Casa Vallejo! It's rooms evoke a homeyness that have an understated luxury. and the food ain't bad, either. So when you're up in Baguio for a summer get-away don't forget to make you reservations waaaay in advance. It's not that expensive and it's worth your hard-earned cash.

the Hill Station restaurant

SCOTTY'S CRIB

Scotty's home

Alright, call me a dinosaur... jurassic even! I don't care. I was in Sagada recently for a tour with some guests from the Netherlands and they were literally quite impressed with the grand vistas that the Cordilleras afforded them. But there is always one special spot in Sagada that will always be close to my heart.

a remembrance from the UP students and staff

Whenever I get the opportunity, I visit the usual tourist spots that the area has. The burial caves, the hanging coffins...these are all standard for visitors there. This time around I got to visit the home of my idol and former professor, William Henry Scott.

The library

Scotty, as he was fondly called by those who knew him, lived in Sagada among the proud peoples of the Cordillera mountain range. He was a very learned, erudite and scholarly researcher and professor who knew how to motivate his students to dig deeper as far as historical facts were concerned. He was my professor as I was pursuing a degree in History at the University of the Philippines, College of Arts and Sciences in Manila. Needless to say, Scotty was my favorite professor! He just brought out the best in his students. And so, I responded by getting A's in his exams. 

I was fortunate this time around to get into the home he left behind to his adopted son/companion, Miguel Talanay.  Mr Talanay lives in the A-frame house with his pet dogs and he now holds the position of treasurer for the cooperative store. He was gracious enough to let me take a peek into Scotty's crib. 

Living room shot

I was teary eyed when I walked into the library where Scotty once wrote his essays and his research papers. All of a sudden, memories of my days at the university came rushing back. We often kidded that Scotty had an uncanny resemblance to Albert Einstein. It ends there.  But his insights into the Cordillera culture and its people have left an indelible mark on his students of Philippine history.

Mr. Talanay in the living room

In hindsight, I think the stuff I learned from him are the things I remember most. I am a proud Filipino! It's strange... it was an American who taught me that!!!