LOREN LOVES THE LOOM

On a recent tour assignment to the National Museum, I was pleasantly surprised to find that there has been some refurbishing and restoration/ renovation going on in both buildings. There have been  new additions to the museum's collection and some new items have been placed either on permanent loan as well as some special exhibits.

In this instance, I did like the temporary exhibit of the Hibla ng Lahing Filipino Gallery on the fourth floor of the Museum of the Filipino People. Credit goes to Senator Loren Legarda for putting up a worthy collection on the Abel Ilokana in celebration of Women's Month. Clearly, the venerable senator has an advocacy for promoting things Filipino. Her fashion sense and style prompts her to don indigenous fabrics adapted to contemporary designs. She makes it a point to use locally woven fabrics for her clothes in most, if not all of her official functions.

The  Abel Ilokana collection, sadly, will only last until the 30th of March. However, I feel that it's a creative way of highlighting the Filipino's long tradition of weaving. The Abel or Inabel is a type of sturdy cloth that has been part of the Ilocos region's way of life. It is the product of both tradition and function as the northerners tried to keep the art of weaving alive by passing on the knowledge and skill to the younger generation. The art was passed on from grandmother to daughter to granddaughter as most families kept looms in their households.

Formerly limited only to women, the art of weaving became a means not only to keep women modestly and stylishly dressed, it was also a source of wealth and income to support their families. The abel cloth was used not only for clothing but also for their homes as these were turned into table runners, blankets and even mosquito nets (depending on the fine quality of the weave and fibers). The men, nowadays have taken to weaving as well! As a matter of economics, the men have slowly infiltrated the art form once dominated by the Ilokanas. Their strength allows them to make tighter woven fabrics that are also stronger.

There were indeed times in my childhood when my grandmother would often remind us in the  old Filipino proverb; "kung maigsi ang kumot, matuto'ng bumaluktot!" It was also a reference to a simpler way of life to try adapt to the curve-balls that life throws at you! How apropos, considering she would order blankets from Ilocos.  Once banned from being exported to Spain, the inabel was considered a threat to the local Spanish weaving industry. Its sturdiness survived the gale force winds that moved the Spanish Galleons on their long voyage across the Pacific and so it was preferred and often used as sails. Of course, until now, those blankets from Ilocos are prized for their sturdiness. 

I'm happy that Sen. Legarda was able to showcase the fine art of weaving in the north. Nowadays, the abel or inabel has taken on new applications for its use. Glad they re-discovered it before it becomes a dying art...

THE LEGACY OF A PROUD PEOPLE

It is always a privilege for me to accept guiding duties to the Banaue Rice Terraces. Recently, I was up there with four Dutch guests who were so awed by this man-made wonder. I myself am speechless at the high level of planning and construction the Ifugaos undertook to build this heritage site. And so showing it off to tourists is always a treat.

Other Asian countries like Japan and Mongolia have their own versions of the rice terraces. Ours is different, though. Consider the following facts:

• The Banaue Rice Terraces are more than 2,000 years old.
• The Banaue Rice Terraces soars to a height of anywhere from 3,000 -5,000 feet above sea level
• It covers a total land area of 400 square kilometers
• If laid end to end, it will run halfway around the globe
• The Banaue Rice Terraces supports its own ecosystem

What strikes me as extra-ordinary is that there could not have been that many Ifugao settlers in the Philippines many years ago. What our ancestors achieved must have taken immense effort and intensive manual labor on their part to build these rice paddies on the slopes of the Cordilleras.

Even with the encroachment of the Spanish and American colonizers, the indigenous people of the Cordilleras remained true to their culture and their inner resolve to not be subjugated by foreign rulers. They were the incessant mosquito that kept bugging the Spanish colonizers. They would plague the Spanish troops and their commanders with raids that left some of their victims headless. They protected their gold mines and built the rice terraces for survival.

Even until now, as the younger generation prefer to seek jobs in urban centers, those locals left behind make the effort to repair the damaged portions. The Banaue Rice Terraces remains, to this day, a testament to a proud people.

Old World Charm

Casa Vellejo facade

I was up in Baguio City after having spent time in Banaue and Sagada. I was with Dutch guests and we had arrived on the tail end of the Panagbenga festival; Baguio's take on the Rose Bowl parade celebrating the city's profusion of flowers.

lobby shot

It was crowded and noisy. Traffic was rerouted. Roads were blocked. Live performances were aplenty on make-shift stages on Session Road. And it seemed half of Metro Manila's population joined in on the fun. We had to double back to find the road leading to the hotel.

fireplace at the lobby

But when we got there... aaahhhh! We were surrounded by a cocoon of genteel charm!

the grand staircase

Casa Vallejo is situated on the lower slopes of Upper Session Road right where the SM Mall is located. Strategic, yes... but what a sight spoiler that mall is! In any case, it was nice that even after some controversy, Casa Vallejo was not sold to private individuals who would have demolished the historied walls of this quaint hotel.

signage in wood

Built in 1909 in the American Colonial style, Casa Vallejo reminds one of the an old, much lived in, comfortable home where wooden floors are polished and wooden beams glow in the amber light of chandeliers. Formerly a hill station under the American regiime, not much has changed in its over a century of existence. The cavernous dining hall named Hill Station (what else?) serves updated Filipino dishes and  has a great picture window view of the hills down below... now a hodge-podge of various roofing material (sad, really.)

exposed wooden beams in the dining hall

It's a blessing that residents of Baguio took to protesting what would have been a crime to our national heritage - the demolition of Casa Vallejo! It's rooms evoke a homeyness that have an understated luxury. and the food ain't bad, either. So when you're up in Baguio for a summer get-away don't forget to make you reservations waaaay in advance. It's not that expensive and it's worth your hard-earned cash.

the Hill Station restaurant

SCOTTY'S CRIB

Scotty's home

Alright, call me a dinosaur... jurassic even! I don't care. I was in Sagada recently for a tour with some guests from the Netherlands and they were literally quite impressed with the grand vistas that the Cordilleras afforded them. But there is always one special spot in Sagada that will always be close to my heart.

a remembrance from the UP students and staff

Whenever I get the opportunity, I visit the usual tourist spots that the area has. The burial caves, the hanging coffins...these are all standard for visitors there. This time around I got to visit the home of my idol and former professor, William Henry Scott.

The library

Scotty, as he was fondly called by those who knew him, lived in Sagada among the proud peoples of the Cordillera mountain range. He was a very learned, erudite and scholarly researcher and professor who knew how to motivate his students to dig deeper as far as historical facts were concerned. He was my professor as I was pursuing a degree in History at the University of the Philippines, College of Arts and Sciences in Manila. Needless to say, Scotty was my favorite professor! He just brought out the best in his students. And so, I responded by getting A's in his exams. 

I was fortunate this time around to get into the home he left behind to his adopted son/companion, Miguel Talanay.  Mr Talanay lives in the A-frame house with his pet dogs and he now holds the position of treasurer for the cooperative store. He was gracious enough to let me take a peek into Scotty's crib. 

Living room shot

I was teary eyed when I walked into the library where Scotty once wrote his essays and his research papers. All of a sudden, memories of my days at the university came rushing back. We often kidded that Scotty had an uncanny resemblance to Albert Einstein. It ends there.  But his insights into the Cordillera culture and its people have left an indelible mark on his students of Philippine history.

Mr. Talanay in the living room

In hindsight, I think the stuff I learned from him are the things I remember most. I am a proud Filipino! It's strange... it was an American who taught me that!!!

Recess and Nano's

Like I always emphatically stress on this site. This is not a food blog!

Nano's interiors

But since food is part of culture I manage to squeeze in an article or two of nice food I've tried in Manila's ever evolving restaurant scene. Two restaurants I've tried recently are so diametrically opposed in price range, I'm amazed both serve almost the same type of cuisine.

Pizza with bacon at Nano's

I was in the vicinity of SM Manila one fine Wednesday to pay for my real estate taxes. I was famished and decided to go to the mall next door to sate my hunger pangs. Lunchtime is always busy at SM Manila. I did find a restaurant that wasn't too crowded. NANO's!

Tuna pasta at Nano's

They serve Italian food. They have a variety of pizzas which one can order per slice. A wedge of pizza costs as low as P65.00. I was curious as well as hungry so I went inside the restaurant and decided to have a full lunch which consisted of Tuna pasta al' Olio, a slice of pizza. It was filling. Not necessarily extra ordinary. But if you're hungry, that'll do. and for a price point of PhP200.00++ for a full meal and soda to boot. I'd say... not too shabby!

Crackers with cheese dip at Recess

Then I visited this new restaurant along Jupiter street in Makati. Recess by Chef Chris is on its soft opening. But I found the staff to be quite attentive and they have a good grasp of product knowledge. A diner can ask them questions on the menu and they'd be happy to reply as best they can. Chef Chris was also doing the rounds of tables asking diners if everything was in order.

Recess interiors

It's a well appointed brownstone. An open counter is located at the far end and a semi-secluded bar is situated at the right side as one enters the establishment. The food is a lot pricier compared to Nano's and more flavorful. The pizza has freshly rolled out dough and the portions of arugula and alfalfa sprouts were hearty enough to be rolled into the slices. the dip was also well seasoned and tasty.

Steak at Recess

The bowl of chilli I had was perfectly spiced and the freshly baked bread i dipped in it was quite heavy and had a nice crust and crunch. The steak my partner ordered was large and the gravy that went with it was thick and salty. I tried it as well... it was good! My only issue with Recess by Chef Chris was that for meals for two people they charged more than a thousand pesos, which if you really think about it, isn't affordably priced for the common "tao". It's a lot more expensive! But hey, you get what you pay for...

Bowl of Chilli at Recess

Intramuros Rising

Things are abuzz in Intramuros.

It all started with the restoration of Manila Cathedral last year (still ongoing until now). Then San Agustin also underwent restoration. However, San Agustin's make-over is taking on the project without closing its doors to the public.

I had a tour this week and was surprised that the lower portion of the San Agustin's sala recibidor was also being remodeled. A large piece was being dismantled and moved to another location by the Intramuros Administration. 

The 17th century retablo from Cebu which found a temporary home at the sala recibidor was taken piece by piece from it's designated spot and was being taken to another area within Intramuros. This was/is in conjunction with the rebuilding of the San Ignacio church that will house the extensive ecclesiastical collection of the Intramuros Administration.

The altar piece which occupied the far wall of the room is a massive objet d'art that depicts the significant stages in the life of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Extreme care had to be undertaken to move the individual pieces carved out of Philippine hardwood. 

Even the small decorative scroll pieces which seemed almost unobtrusive had to be moved by two men one at a time. The image of the Holy Infant Jesus was also taken out of its hardwood niche. For now, some of the pieces will be in Casa Manila until the building of the San Ignacio is fully completed.

The Manila Cathedral is nearing its completion. From time to time workers open doors partially to let the dust from restoration works fly out and during those times, one can take a peek on its progress. The church was supposed to be fully restored by 8 December of last year. The waiting makes it more exciting...

EARLY GOOD EATS for 2014

HAPPY 2014, EVERYONE!

Mitsuyado Sei-Men foyer

January hasn't even reached midway and already, my resolution of staying fit and healthy is on edge... I mean... it's officially back to normal from the Christmas season and people are slowing down on the bingeing.  So technically, I should keep my promise to eat healthy and lose the last remaining 3 kg. my doctor said i should try to lose.

Friends from Lowe Advertising

So what is one to do when friends are call for an over-extended Christmas get together? Eat! So when my my friends from Lowe Advertising called I managed to eat a healthy garden salad downed with lots of plain water. That was for lunch. For dinner I met with friends from Ateneo and we met at Shangri-la Mall's Tender Bob's restaurant. While they were downing steaks and mashed potatoes, I was having a seafood salad with shrimp and an orange vinaigrette dressing.

Ateneo friends

So far, so good!?! I also met with my friend's cousin and niece to jog around the CCP complex so what do we do after? We have a simple dinner at Max's Restaurant at Harbor Square. It would have been a healthy plate except for the serving size. We just had a Seafood Lomi - a noodle soup that had shrimp, crabmeat, mussels in a thick soup with chives, garlic and egg... 

Seafood Lomi

Tinapa rice which is actually friend rice seasoned with garlic, slice red onion, soy sauce, tomatoes and smoked fish...

Tinapa Rice

We also had Sisig Tofu. This was a new dish I had to try. It's a healthy take on a traditionally sinful Pampango dish of pork "mask" on a sizzling hot plate and served with lots of onion and garlic. This used tofu instead. Cooked on a hot plate still, but smothered in  bird's eye, green chilli and coconut cream. 

Sisig Tofu

Today, I had lunch at Mitsuyado Sei-Men. It's a nice little restaurant near along Jupiter street in Bel-Air, Makati. It's a franchise owned by the UCC  group and brought to Manila (see top photo). Their style is like the gazebo's that served street food in Tokyo. An adjoining doorway leads one to Yamato which is their bakeshop.

Mitsuyado Sei-Men interior

The ramen is hearty even if you order the solo portion (the regular might be too big for some). I ordered the Curry Ramen. You have a choice of thick or thin noodles. My ramen had bits of roast pork on it, much like lechon kawali. But the bowl was smothered in a rich, gooey curry sauce that was perfectly seasoned. It had the unmistakable flavor of curry from the turmeric but it was neither too spicy nor overpowering. The balance of flavor was unbelievably  subtle. I consumed it to the last drop.

Curry Ramen

My dear Jerome ordered the Cheese Tsukemen; a plateful of noodles generously sprinkled with parmesan. Tsukemen means dipping noodles so it had a small cup of melted cheese and a larger bowl of dipping broth that had a mix of herbs from chives to parsley and lemon grass and coriander. The cheese flavor was markedly present and seemed to enhance the dipping sauce. It was a delicate play of flavors that plays on your palate. Very tasty...

Cheese Tsukemen

Then it was Chocolatier for dessert. A few steps from Mitsuyado Sei-men, it's a boutique of chocolate products and a nice little coffee shop/restaurant. 

Chocolatier interiors

I had a Cappucino and Jerome had an Americano. The crema on my cup was frothy and light so it was a perfect accompaniment to the cake we ordered.

Capuccino

Golden Euphoria is a soft sponge cake that's velvety to the point of having a  "tiramisu" consistency. The surprise is the crushed Ferrero Rocher in the middle   layer of the cake. The chocolate tuille, white chocolate wand and the ganache drizzle serve as accents of rich chocolate flavor. We shared the cake.

Golden Euphoria

I'm still figuring out if I over-ate today... NOT! I shared the sweets, the ramen was my main meal for the day. I had broccoli and carrot soup for dinner, skipped the soda, did a lot of walking too. I'm watching my food intake. Sticking to my diet... I don't know how long it will last... =)