The Baguio of My Childhood

I have always had fond memories of Baguio. I used to go to the summer capital quite often when I was a kid. Two of my elder cousins studied there and my dear grandmother would gather all of us cousins and head for Baguio to check on her favorite grandchildren.

Recently, my cousin Alice arrived and she had the bright idea of taking her American husband to see Baguio first-hand. Apparently, she too, had fond memories of Baguio and had told Jim (her husband) stories of how she spent vacations there. So upon her invitation, I tagged along for a weekend there. She had an invite to stay at the Baguio Country Club and she and Jim stayed there while I and the driver stayed at the El Cielito Inn a stone's throw from SM City Baguio ( yes, there's one there now too).

I was surprised by the speed of which we got there. We cut the trip to at least half the time thanks to the modern day convenience of the NLEX and SCTEX which cuts through the face of Northern Luzon. Before it took 6-8 hours to get to the city of pines... nowadays, it takes 4-6 hours. Incidentally the SCTEX also cuts through the Hacienda Luisita ( owned by PNoy's family) and you get a sense of the wealth and power of landed families from the Spanish times to the present as they hold sway over the common Filipinos.

The purpose of the trip was R&R and to show Jim around what the Americans built to make the location a place of refuge and to remind them of home when they were getting bored and home-sick in Manila. Because truly, the city remains far removed from the heat of the rest of country. It's as if you were trasported to a different country while you're here.

When I was a child I stared in awe of the beauty that surrounded me as I craned my neck to see the deep ravines along Kennon Road. At the foot of the mountain one gets a whiff of fresh mountain air. No longer. You only get that now whe you're near the city proper. The rest of the climb all you see is the degradation of Kennon Road and the smell of smoke emissions from the busses that ply the Baguio-Manila Route.

There is so much urban development in Baguio now so much so that there are traffic jams along Session Road ( where we used to do most of the sightseeing and eating) and there are areas where traffic is re-routed one way. The side of the Baguio Cathedral along session Road has so many tall buildings now it has all but obscured the Gothic Baguio Cathedral from that side. I remember eagerly running up the steps to the cathedral and counting the hundred and plus so steps to the top. Pine trees that used to surround the historic church have been sawn off. there's a walkway and fountain that now obscures the faced of the Cathedral.

Thankfully, the sites that make Baguio unique are still there but I can't tell whether it has become a tourist trap or a sign of progress... I guess it's a matter of looking at different perspectives. The observation deck at Mine's View Park has been totally over-run by stall upon stall of curio shops and Photo-ops with dogs and horses. It takes a while before one gets to the view. Apparently there have been a lot of complaints from tourists and there is now a move to re-locate the merchants from the view deck. Igorot Kids used to hang around the cliff face to scrounge around for coins tossed by tourists. The practice has now been stopped. Rightly so, as it has cost the lives of some children falling off the cliff clambering for loose change.
The vista of Baguio remains as spectacular as ever but now, homes are precariously constructed along ridges. Old colonial homes are left derelict or up for sale. Hotels, motels, inns, pension houses, bed and breakfasts have sprung up like mushrooms due to the heavy influx of tourists during the summer. But the landmarks of Baguio remain as enduring as its glorious weather. At two in the afternoon, the clouds set in. Usually, it rains in the afternooons this time of year so don't forget your raingear. It isn't as cold as I remember it to be. But the flood of memorieshas made this trip a very sentimental one for me... and my cousin as well...

Here are some of Baguio's Must See's:
Baguio Country Club ( see the marker for its history)
Camp John Hay- built as an american military facility, the camp is now open to the public with all the great amenities and spectacular views. a certain area now has a row of dining and outlet stores.
Mine's View Park - need I say more?
Burnham Park - named after Daniel Burnham of Manila and London fame... he was responsible for the gridiron lay-out of the city of Manila. Baguio has the same lay-out.
Baguio Cathedral-(see photo)
Lourdes Grotto- we used to run up and down the stairs when I was a kid. Now it's a location for a TV commercial for body pain relief pill.
Mansion House- built as a summer residence for the presidents of the Philippines. Located across the entrance of Wright Park
Teacher's Camp- I stayed at the Teacher's Camp year ago for an Art consrvation and Preservation Seminar conducted by the National Museum. The place is famous for the Urban Legend of "white Ladies" and ghost stories.
Baguio Convention Center- Designed by National Artist for Architecture Leandro Locsin, the convention center is situated right across the UP Baguio Campus. I recommend you visit the Tourism office there to ask for maps of Baguio City.
Wright Park- Pony ride, anyone? I used to ride the sturdy mountain horses when I was a kid. I got a "kick" (pardon the pun) out of it everytime.
Botanical Garden- When I was a child i remember putting my nose on a rose to sniff it and my face was totally covered in pollen.
Mount Sto Tomas
Tam-awan Village- Artist Ben Cabrera is credited for re-creating an Ifugao village with his personal funds and creating a complete arts center with a gallery near Quezon Hill.
Philippine Military Academy- West Point style military Academy that trains the future military leaders of the country. I remember attending a PMA graduation when I was a kid. It was for the graduation of tito Alexander Aguirre who was top of his class. The academy has accepted women plebes a few years back.
Asin Hot springs
Loakan Airport- now closed for commercial air transport. Sea Air now has flights to La Union complete with busses that ferry passengers from La union to Baguio City
Bell Church
Heritage Hill- Site of Baguio City Hall. It houses American Colonial Buildings that are still in use.
Easter Weaving Room- site for local weaving. the most famous weaver that broke into international fame is Narda Capuyan. She popularized the Igorot weave in Europe and the americas
Wood Carver's Village
Baguio City Market- Ever popular place to look for bargains, especially fresh strawberries
Maryknoll Sanctuary

Yes they're still there. But you better go see Baguio before everything completely changes before your very eyes. Getting around isn't a problem as there are jeepneys that go the routes of these sites and taxis are cheaper (guess what? no aircon). there's even a fly-over now that leads from the city to the Marcos Highway that's as smooth as it can get...

An Afternoon with Secretary Lim

Yesterday was a red-letter day for the remaining Mabuhay Guides. It was the day when the remaining guides paid a courtesy call to newly-appointed Department of Tourism Secretary Alberto Lim. I say remaining because from twenty-five the number has been drastically cut to fourteen active Mabuhay Guides. Some have opted to leave the group for better pastures while the rest who were stricken of the roster failed to make the desired rating.

Oh yes, Virginia... the Mabuhay Guides underwent an acid-test of sorts for an entire year while taking on various guiding duties. Each and every group we went with were given an evaluation sheet of how satisfied/disatisfied they were with our guiding skills.

But I digress. As a show of solidarity and support for the newly-appointed secretary, we were all instructed to be in our gala uniform and be at the Secretary's office at 1:30 p.m. Suits for the men and for the women, their black pencil skirts and their orange tops and matching blazers.

We were ushered into the recieving room and were made to wait for Sec. Lim as he was still out on a meeting with PNoy. Whilst there, we all exchanged pleasantries and tried to catch up on what each and everyone was doing outside of the Mabuhay Guides. As is usual with our meetings, there was a lot of fun and laughter which we did with a lot of resttraint so we don't make the wrong impression on the Secretary.

At half past two in the afternoon, Secretary Lim enters the door from his office and he was a bit surprised that we were dressed to the nines as if a reception was underway. Apparently the cabinet meeting would have taken till midnight if the president had not included another meeting he had to go to. My first impression of Secretary Lim was that he was a no-nonsense kinda guy. He's a pretty tall man with a serious demeanor. Eventually, he slackened when we each introduced ourselves to him. Of course, our mother-hen, The Susan Calo-Medina was there to steer the conversation to our plans.

I liked that Secreatry Lim was quite supportive of the future plans of the Mabuhay Guides. Like us, he believes in upgrading the quality of the guides in the country and that he is willing to provide us with logistical support if and when necessary. He also believes in strengthening the Mabuhay Guides brand so we can professionalize the guiding industry as an effective conduit to tourism. Like any businessman, he can be direct and exacting to the point that he gets misconstrued... misquoted... perhaps even misunderstood.

All in all, the meeting was a pleasant one and shows lots of promise for the Mabuhay Guides who choose to stick it out and spread the love for country and travel to the rest of the world. Meanwhile, as we all undergo the renewal process for our individual accreditation, we're most anxious for the guests to start pouring in. The rainy season has set in and at the moment, it's quite a long wait for each and everyone of us to get assigned to a tour.

That's tourism for you... we're dependent on the weather. We can make the worst of the rainy season look good but we have an eye out for brighter sunshine to make our guests enjoy what the country has to offer.

Oh well, since it's summer in the US, my cousins have all decided to come home for a spell. For them, this is the best time to come home to Manila. The weather isn't that bad and it's a lot cooler than it is during summer. Since I haven't taken my turn yet I may as well get some practice showing my cousins around...

Global Pinoys

Here's a list of Filipinos who have distinguished themselves recently by grabbing the headlines worldwide. I personally, find their stories inspiring and am proud we share the same race.

THE PUGILISTS- Recently, three boxers hogged the headlines: Anna "the Hurricane" Julaton - the first Fil-Am female boxer who captured the WBC title. She has the same coach as Manny Pacquiao in the person of Freddie Roach. Anna flew in just recently and was feted with a ticker tape parade and a courtesy call on P Noy as well as guest spots on various TV Shows. On the same arena (pun intended)are two guys Brian Villoria and Nonito Donaire who pommelled their Puerto Rican and Mexican opponents. The victory is especially sweet for Donaire who recovered his championship belt, albeit, on a different weight category... but a victory, nonetheless.

FRANCISCO "DJANGO" BUSTAMANTE - Recently won the World Pool Championships in Cardiff, Wales. Billiards is a strong arena for Philippine talents. It has gone a long way from the dyas of Efren "Bata" Reyes and Amang Parican both of whom elevated billiards consciousness in the country and elevated the sport into an art form. Incidentally, Mr. Reyes also competed in the same competition but was eliminated in the earlier rounds. Django pocketed the cash prize of 36,000.00 Euros and bragging rights as world pool king.

FRANCISCO DOMAGOSO- Formerly better known as Isko Moreno, the man who was a struggling actor in his younger days has become an icon of sorts when he was invited to and graced a seminar on local governance in the United States. Born of humble beginnings, Francisco was a street urchin who spent his childhood begging for scraps of food and frequenting the mounds of trash in Smokey Mountain. He ended up in Showbusiness as a discovery of German Moreno and eventually entered politics first as a councilor of Manila. He then pursued higher education and continued to serve in the local government. Isko was duly elected and was one of the first to be declared winner in the vice-mayoralty race in the City of Manila in the 2010 elections.

CANDICE ADEA - A diminutive ballerina of no meager talent, Diday, as she is fondly called by friends won the Silver Prize in the recently concluded ballet olympics in Jackson, Mississippi. The International Ballet Competition in Jackson is held every 4 years and is participated in by hopefuls from all points of the world. Young dancers come from far and wide to compete in dance technique which they have finely honed in their own respective countries.

Candice follows in the footsteps of celebrated Filipino dancers Lisa Macuja Elizalde (who won silver in Japan) and Camille Ordinario Joson (again, silver medalist in Paris). Candice is a principal dancer of Ballet Philippines.

ARTHUR AALA- Make no mistake about it, Italians know their food well. So how the heck did one Filipino win the hearts (and stomachs) of a nation that perfected pasta and pizza? Well, give them sushi.

Arthur Aala opened his first Japanese restaurant, Ohashi, in 2002. He is now the owner of 6 Japanese restaurants. Two of them are solely his, while he co-owns the other 4 with his Filipino buddies.

A framed certificate recognizing the quality of their food is proudly displayed in one of his restaurants, Osaka. It was awarded to the restaurant by the Il Gotha del Gusto International Press Association, which has a membership of 300 food critics worldwide.

Aala believes the quality of food and service in his restaurants is the reason why customers keep coming back. He started as a janitor in the Middle East at the young age of nineteen with dreams of providing for his family. He then rose the ranks and learned to make sushi. When he felt he had learned enough, he moved to Turin and established a small Japanese restaurant ( i know, why not Pinoy food?. His business grew and he now owns 6 restaurants employing Filipinos.


UST SINGERS - The University of Sto. Tomas Singers made history when they bagged the Choir of the World- Luciano Pavarotti Grand Prize at the 2010 Llangollen International Musical Eisteddfod, in Wales, UK -- the oldest and most prestigious choir competition in the world. They won the same award in 1995, making them first and only Filipino and Asian choir to win the celebrated award twice.

The Choir of the World competition (COTW), which is the highlight of the festival, is exclusive for the 1st prize winners of 5 major choir categories: Mixed Choir, Chamber Choir, All-Male Choir, All-Female Choir and Barbershop/Close Harmony Choir.
The UST Singers won the top prize in the Mixed Choir Category, which qualified the group for the COTW competition.

In the COTW competition, the UST Singers triumphed over 4 champion choirs: the Cywair Choir of Wales, winner of the Chamber Choir category and also a Choir of the World winner in 2005; the White Rossettes Choir of England, winner of Barbershop/Close Harmony Choir; Cantabile Choir of Limburg, Germany , winner of the All-Male Choir Category, and the Chanterelles Choir of England, the winner of All-Female choir.


The COTW trophy is named after the great tenor Luciano Pavarotti, who started his career as a singer at the same Llangollen International Musical Eistedfodd stage in 1955 when he was a choirboy in an All-Male Choir in Modena, Italy. His choir emerged as the All-Male Choir Champion in the same competition in 1955. The Pavarotti name was added to the COTW title in 2005.

The University of Santo Tomas Singers was founded in 1992. It is a mixed choral ensemble composed of a select group of students and alumni representing the different colleges and faculties of the oldest university in Asia. The group, under the baton of Prof. Fidel G. Calalang Jr., is completing its tour in some European cities before returning to the Philippines.

Meanwhile, another entry from the Philippines, the DLSU Chorale, also won 2nd place in the Chamber Choirs category.

Pinoys in International News

Subic's Surprises

It was a bit of a surprise visiting Subic with good friends June Recto and Wena Bradley. I had come from the Manila City Hall to work on the release of my Mayor's Permit which I had to wait a week for. I have to go back again on the 16th of July,Friday of next week to recieve my City Health ID. Meantime, there was a trip that was previously planned for the Thursday which did not push through. So on Friday morning I called myh friend to tell him I was done with my errands. Guess what? We were going on a road trip...

The pick up point was June's house at 1pm . We proceeded to Subic on board Wena's van and arrived there around two hours later. Surprise, surprise! Subic is still evolving and shows continued development. From it's high profile background as a former American military facility, the base now serves as an exporft processing zones housing industries that manufacture anywhere from household products to industrial parts.

In my time, the areas around Subic and Clark were associated with establishments of ill-repute. Especially Olongapo, which was designated as a Mecca for wine, women and song. Many a serviceman on furlough would gallivant around the areas of Clark and Subic looking for thrills of the sensual kind. When the Americans were sent back home it seemed time stood still. The girly bars lost its patrons, the women eventually settled down and raised families or made good by turning a new leaf.

Nowadays, Subic and its environs have evolved into an urban center with lots of recreational facilities that caters to different interests. Hotels have sprung up. Casinos have started operating. Fun adventures fit for family affairs are aplenty to entertain and educate guests. Even its environs boast of prime beach resorts and even a cultural haven like Pundaquit.

Here are some of my favorite spots in Subic:

Pamulaklakin Forest Trail - Learn the Aetas' way of life and how they survive using indigenous materials culled from the forest trail...


Tree Top Adventure- Enjoy zipping from one tree to the next. Have fun walking or flying through the tree tops. Or simply enjoy a leisurely afternoon sipping coffee or having snacks way up in the arbod ledge.

Zoobic Safari - enjoy various animal encounters and have an exciting time feeding the tigers in specially equipped vehicles while you drive around rough terrain amid the biggest cats in the world.


Aqua Adventure - Get wet and have fun watching whales and dolphins do tricks and delight kids with these lovable aquatic animals.

Red Dragon Restaurant - Enjoy scrumptous Chinese dishes at the Red Dragon restaurant and watch the waistline go with delicious, nutricious meals...


And then of course... there's always the shopping!!! Originally a port where American goods are brought over for the consumption of the reserved forces stationed at the base, the consumer products found its way into the commissary to be lapped up by Filipinos who could afford top-dollar prices. Now everyone's welcome to shop at the stores that sell American goods.

Every visit to Subic can be summed up in one catch-phrase: "the more things change... the more they stay the same..." =)

Binondo Bytes

Same time last year, we had a brilliant guest lecturer in the person of Ms. Lorelei de Viana who did extensive research on Binondo architecture. She published a book which is a valuable resource tool for anyone who wants to do a tour of Binondo.

Anyway, all the Mabuhay Guides were so impressed with her knowledge of the area that we keep going back to her book if only to borrow "nuggets" for our commentaries on the Binondo area.

The last time I was in Binondo I noticed black netting on what used to be the British Chancerry, a building that survived the carpet bombing during the Liberation of Manila in 1945. I hope they don't plan to tear the building down. That would be a shame and an outright violation of R.A. No 10066. That's the new law that prevents people from changing, destroying or defacing anything that is more than 50 yars old. I wonder if the authorities at the Manila City Hall have any knowledge of this.



The glory days of Escolta are all but gone but vestiges of its past remain in the old buildings that proliferate the area:

- The Capitol Theater is now heavily guarded and there seems to be some business going on inside, another renovation in progress?

- The Calvo Building - Formerly the headquarters of the Kapuso Station, now the site of the Escolta Museum. The building has remained faithful to its neo-classical design

- The Natividad Building - reminiscent of 18th century parisian buildings in the Beaux Arts style. A favorite site featured in TV commercials.

- Perez-Samanillo Building - Art Deco building that survived the bombing of WWII. Features an Otis elevator with exposed dials.
- Regina Building - Major business address for financial institutions from the early to mid-20th century. It has retained its neo-classic details over the years.

Aside from the buildings, Binondo has other treats to offer... particularly the food!!! Seriously, why wouldn't anyone want to do a walking tour of Binondo when, at every turn, one is faced with the possibility of having a tasty treat? The prospect of trying Chinese food is enough to make one salivate.

The usual hopia and siopao are just part of the usual niblets. The guests will determine just how much food they are determined to try... or how much they can take... I can't enumerate the food they can sample, else I give the tour secrets away. Best to try a Binondo tour with any one of the Mabuhay Guides. The cost is certainly well within reason. After all, the long walk is chock-full of visual and gustatory treats...

Call the Mabuhay Guides for a Food/ histtorical trip to Escolta and Binondo. We throw in a Pasig Ferry ride too if you're coming from the Makati area.

Ilocos Top Sites

The very first province we went to for our immersion August of last year was Ilocos. There were ten of us Mabuhay Guides who were sent there to learn the routes and visit the spectacular sights that the region had to offer. So to celebrate my first anniversary as an MG, I'm giving you a run down of the best sights to see in Ilocos.

I refuse to be committed to a countdown so I will enumerate my most favorite must see's and must try's in no particular order.

- The Museo Ilocos

The best way to understand the Ilocano psyche is to visit the Museo Ilocos. Archeological artifacts on the Ilocano way of life are aesthetically displayed for everyone's enjoyment. This includes a scaled down Ilocano home that leads to a makeshift theater where one can enjoy Ilocano music.
- The Old Churches
There are many churches that can strengthen one's belief in the Catholic faith. The massive scale of the churches as places of worship and their grandeur can be awe-inspiring:

Sta. Monica church in Sarat is where presidential daughter Irene Marcos was wed to Greggy Araneta. The event was a nationwide spectacle. A few weeks after the wedding the church was damaged partially by an earthquake that rocked Luzon.
St Paul's Cathedral in Vigan was the official seat of the diocese of Nueva Segovia. The religious influence of the Catholic church extended its reach from Manila to the north via the trappings of Catholic dogma.

The Immaculate Conception Church in Batac is a quaint church in neo-classic style with delicate architectural touches.
The San Agustin Church is one of four Philippine churches declared World Heritage Site by the UNESCO. The massive flying buttresses and its earthquake baroque style not to mention its impressive facade are some of the unique details that make the church a true landmark in Ilocos.
- Marcos Mansion/Museum
Batac is where the Marcos Mansion and Museum are located. A stone's throw away from the Ricarte Museum, the Mansion and Museum houses the mauseleum where former President Marcos' remains lie in state.
The Manision is a working household for the Marcos family when they stay in the province.
Malacanan ti Amianan
Located in Paoay, the Malacanan of the north is a stately down-sized presidential mansion replete with golf course and recreational facilities for the former strongman of Ilocos.


- Juan Luna Museum
The home of nationalist and painter Juan Luna y Novicio which has been turned into a museum. The restored home of brick showcases archives, photos and memorabilia owned by the Luna family and chronicling their rise to prominence.


- Sitio Remedios
A quaint villa in Currimao that has a "collection" of old ancestral houses restored and converted as lodging for the resort. It also features a spanish era lighthouse within the property along the rugged coastline. Ideal for weddings and honeymoons.


- Pagudpud
Ilocos Norte's pride is bolstered by the pristine white-sand beaches in Pagudpud. Resort hotels dot the coastline with various accomodations that cater to tourists' budget


- Bangui Windmills
A series of windmills that tap the windpower along the northwestern sea coast. The windmills provide a third of the electrical power demands of the Ilocos region. It has also cut the fossil fuel supply of the region considerably. The assembly of the Bangui windmills is a feat in itself with humongous barges carrying the parts to its location from the west.


- Cape Bojeador
The lighthouse used to serve the region guiding ships (mostly galleons) to safer waters. The lighthouse uses a Fresnel lens and is still operable to this day. There are ATVs that may be rented nearby should one wish to explore the locale.


- The Food
Poque-poque, cabatiti, dinengdeng and vigan longganisa are among the more famous eats one could try in Ilocos. There's also Empanada in Batac. This one is different from the empanada found in bulacan and pampanga. It's orange crust is flaky and best eaten warm. Inside is a melange of grated green papaya, vigan longganiza and a raw egg that cooks when the crusty pocket is deep-fried in boiling oil.


- Vigan
The story goes that a Japanese Imperial officer fell in love with a Filipina and pleaded to the Japanese high command that Vigan be spared from the bombing that took place in World War II. Gladly, they listened to his pleas. This is what saved Vigan from total destruction. To this day, Vigan remains a picturesque town with its Spanish colonial homes still intact.


There you have it... these are some of my favorite sites in Ilocos... There's a lot more I haven't included but hey, tomorrow's another day...