ADIOS, SONNY!

The Advocates for Heritage Preservation members have suffered a great loss in the person of Martin Imperial Tinio. His passing comes as a sudden blow just when the newly-elected Mayor of Manila has initiated great strides in recapturing Manila's past glory.

Sonny Tinio, to those who do not know him and may have not had the pleasure of making his acquaintance, was a well-spring of knowledge as far as history is concerned. He was a respected authority on heritage in its many forms and permutations and an engaging author and expert on heritage homes and landmarks and monuments.

Enjoying a hot cup of Arroz Caldo in Bu;acan

Born to a life of pedigree and privilege, his commentaries are peppered with knowledge that comes from a background of personal experience as well as years of living the life of the upper crust. He can look unassuming in his simplicity but details in his person will make you look twice. It's in the nitty gritty where he snatches your second glances... a silver ring will serve as a kerchief slide... a walking cane will have a huge globe of tiger's eye as a finial... silver filigree adorns his velveteen alfombra slippers where the ordinary folk only have embroidery... nothing but nothing slips his discerning eye for detail.

Always a favorite guest speaker and subject matter expert in fora and discussions, listeners wait with baited breath for his irreverent but relevant opinions. He is usually forgiven because his observations, more often than not, are correct! There is always something new to learn from the man. And this is why people attend his numerous lectures and book signing. 

Sr. Tinio signing a copy of his coffee table book Ancestral Houses

He is an indispensable resource person as far as the Intramuros Administration and the National Commission for Culture and the Arts are concerned. He has acted as consultant, curator, of many a museum. He is a popular author of coffee table books on architecture, design and art and culture. He is a gourmand and an epicure -an avowed foodie with a discerning palate. His Facebook  posts of food is a great testament to this fact. His tongue in cheek attitude to art criticism is often gleaned from his displeasure at not finding a historical marker to a much touted heritage structure..."Wala'ng marker?... wala'ng kwenta!" after which guffaws and peals of laughter can be heard from his companions.

We'll miss you, Senor!

ALIWAN SA SOX AT MANILA FAME

It was a hectic Saturday morning for me last 27, April, 2019. I was invited by some friends to have a market visit to the Manila Fame Show that assembles manufacturers and exporters of exquisite Philippine products geared for the international markets. 

However, the Manila Fame visit coincided with two other events so I decided to have a go of it all in one concentrated effort. My first stop was at the Department of Tourism sponsored TRY SOX at the activity area of Robinson's Place Ermita. I was at the area around mid-day to experience what the regional event has to offer its visitors. SOX is a diminutive for Region 12 comprised of  three areas: South Cotabato, Saranggani and General Santos.

TRY SOX was a surprising exposition. They had actual members of indigenous communities doing their arts and crafts demonstrations in the center of the exhibits. On sale in the booths were T'nalak cloth, Inaul malongs, tubaws, T'boli beads and belts, B'laan clothing, etc. I meandered around to see what items I could get my hands on. I managed to get some contact numbers from the exhibitors in the event I would not be able to come back to finalize my purchases. In these expos, it would be wise to roam around for good bargains before you shell out your hard earned cash. I did find very finely beaded tops but the seller had gone for lunch and I had to leave for my meet up with my friends at the Manila Fame show. It was nearly lunch time so I decided to get a bite to eat before proceeding to World Trade Center..

Obra Nicolas basket with leather trim

When I got to the lobby  of the Manila Fame Show, I saw Annie Obeya who arrived earlier than me.  At an event like this, it isn't unusual to see celebrities and luminaries in the art, design, showbiz, fashion and even the paralegal industry. Before we even got inside the exhibits, I bumped into Ito Kish, whose home decor has already made a mark in the global market and Atty. Lorna Kapunan, with whom I conducted tour guiding  activities as she hosted international lawyers in the past. Our first stop was at the booth of Tina Campos, jewelry designer and friend of Annie where she gets her fashion accessories from. I purchased a leather trimmed basket from good friend and bag designer Marcelo Alonzo, whose Obra Nicolas booth was swarmed with buyers. His items were a steal owing to the fact that it was the last day of the affair and they didn't want inventory left. 

Marawi fabrics and beadworks

A few minutes later we were joined by Ace Burwell and Lloyd Anthony Nuestro Raffols and Pheeyah Salones. We went roaming around the huge expanse of WTC to soak in all of the lovely items on sale. Unfortunately, I didn't have an unlimited amount on hand to purchase everything I want. It would be a bit of  stretch to say I wanted it all... I actually did! I just couldn't afford it let alone have enough space in my house to store them. I also met Sabrina Artadi whose show, Sabrina's Kitchen I used to follow on TV. I also had a glimpse of Tweety De Leon Gonzalez, Dzee Gervacio and Marie Martinez whose acrylic bags were quite interesting. By the time we had had enough of shopping, my friends had bought clothes, bags, indigenous fabrics, home ware and what not. Davao based fashion designer Edgar Buyan had very eye-catching separates done in digital prints of tribesmen and women and turn of the century paintings emblazoned on shirts, jackets, skirts, pants and shorts. Nothing fit me, unfortunately. 

The sun was setting and we decided to drop by the Aliwan Fiesta next door at the Star City complex. The Aliwan Fiesta is a yearly event which brings together all of the regional festivals. Contingents from all regions congregate in Manila to present their Reyna ng Aliwan Candidates, their parade floats and their street dance performers culminating in a coronation ceremony for the year's winning beeauty queen. There are also food  concessionaires and regional handicrafts for sale in the  Aliwan Market area. We got hungry and decided to go for an early dinner at the Harbor Square area. We tried the food at Orange and were fairly surprised that the food was pretty good despite a friendly price range. 

It was still quite early so our group decided to go out for dessert. we decided to try out the new restaurant operated by Tesoro's aptly called A Mabini's. On our drive towards A Mabini street we chanced upon the  ongoing street dance parade of Aliwan Fiesta and was captivated by the array of color and glitz of the ongoing parade.

Tesoro's converted their Mabini outlet into an unpretentious restaurant. They have a satellite store in the ground floor but more of the space was for the restaurant. We tried the ensaymada stuffed with mantecado ice cream, the salty melted cheese was a perfect foil for the sweet ice cream, such a perfect dessert. The Leche'ng Flan (yes, you read it right) was more like a creme brulee with its caramel top slightly burnt. Before we decided to call it a day, we went up to the Namayan restaurant on the roof deck to check out the outlet operated by a bed and breakfast operated by a lessee. After that I decided to get home and come back another day for the entrees.

myself on the foreground, Anna, Acey< Annie, Lloyd and Pheeyah

THE GUNS ARE SILENT

I was very fortunate to have been invited to a very special trip this past weekend (6 -7 April, to be exact). You see, my father and uncles were veterans who fought in World War II. When I was a little boy, I would go to Bataan and Corregidor with my father to commemorate Araw ng Kagitingan. I tagged along for a free ride and enjoyed going around the ship. It was a great adventure, but the significance of it was lost on me.

Navy in Gala uniform

When the Titos N Titas invited me to join them on this trip, I naturally jumped at the opportunity to be a part of the journey. This time, I had come full circle! My father had passed on in 1988 at ripe old age of  seventy. That means that during the Japanese occupation in 1941 my father was at the prime of his youth at 23 years old. This celebration was a very sentimental one for me. I would not have missed it for anything!

Members of the veterans 

We were a group of thirty five people who confirmed our desire to join at least three contingents of Philippine Veterans and their families that were to travel from Sangley Point in Cavite City to Corregidor island - WWII's Last Stand! The fiercest and most brutal fighting for our sovereignty happened here. I can only cringe in horror as my father and uncles related their story of torture and suffering at the hands of the Japanese Kempeitai. I joined the trip because it was my sentimental journey in honoring their memory.

BRP Bacolod City - LS 550

There were two pick up points for our group: one was in Centris for those coming from Quezon City, the other one that I was in would meet in Makati/EDSA. By two in the afternoon, we were on our way to Cavite City. There were fourteen people in our van and we made our way to Sangley Point in about an hour.  We made a quick side trip to a close relative of Ron and Lea Caliboso, who in eagerness to entertain us, prepared food a day before the said trip. Feny had to store the local delicacies in her fridge and shared the pancit to her neighbors lest it got spoiled. So when we arrived at her home, we were surprised at the generous spread of food she prepared for us. There was Samala's kakanin and slices of watermelon and pineapple,ice cream,  soda and pancit which we devoured with gusto. After such a heavy merienda, we then motored a few blocks down to the pier to board the BRP Bacolod City (LS-550) that was to take us to the island overnight.

the circle of 35 on board the ship

I was wondering why the call time was so early in spite of an ETD that was past midnight. I should have known that the registration of about a thousand and five hundred pax would indeed cause some form of delay. Busloads of contingents arrived from the south. Red Cross volunteers and health workers from Cavite City along with their ambulances were on call. SAF members, enlisted men, plebes, a military brass band, silent drill members participating in the ceremony were present in the registration area for the ship's manifest. The bedlam was only temporary. Actually, I was thankful we did arrive early as we got first dibs on our area in the ship. It was better than being at the back of the ship's ramp where there was no shelter. People were still arriving until nine o'clock in the evening. The long wait allowed us to settle down and put our stuff together. There was plenty of time for us to explore the other areas of the military camp. The staff and personnel were very friendly and accommodating. By two a.m., the sirens blew and the announcements were made for last boarding and we were on our way at sea.

view  from the port side while docking on the North side of  Corregidor

At daybreak, the ship had started to slow down and a glorious shoreline that was Corregidor's north shore welcomed the ship's arrival. Corregidor a.k.a. as The Rock, is under the jurisdiction of the province of Cavite City in the province of Cavite. It sits strategically at the mouth of Manila Bay dividing the entrance to the bay into the North and South channels. It is about 6.5 km long and 2 km at its widest part. The total land area is about 900 hectares and its highest elevation is about 590 ft above sea level. Corregidor island and four other smaller islands have always been heavily defended by colonizers as it is a sentry way in protecting the city of Manila from its invaders. The Cavite Tourism Council gathered our contingent into two coasters to take us around the tadpole shaped island and view its historic sites.

before disembarking

Corregidor Island is divided into four areas: Tailside, Bottomside, Middleside and Topside. The Tailside is where the air strip to the island was constructed in the 1920's. Kindley Field is named after an American aviator of the US Army Air Corps. The Bottomside, on the other hand, is where the army docks are located and also the part that connects the Tailside to the rest of the larger portions of the island. East of the Bottomside is the Malinta Hill which separates the bottomside from the Tailside. 

Middleside Barracks

Our first stop was the Middleside Barracks where the US built a two story complex of quarters for officers and enlisted men. There were facilities for a hospital for enlisted and non enlisted personnel, a PX, and two schoolhouses: one for Filipino and another for American schoolchildren. What stands on the spot now is a bleak reminder of the ravages of war: twisted steel and crumbling walls of what might have been a glorious American colonial style building. 

Battery Way

We then proceeded to Battery Way. Built into a concrete fortified pit, the battery is significant as the four guns within its radius were the last guns to fire under heavy bombardment by the Japanese forces. Seventy percent of gunnery personnel had been reduced to casualty. Major William Massello, Jr. under whose command were inflicting heavy damage on the Japanese attackers had been wounded and held on to one of the guns as its breach block froze aftrer eleven straight hours of use. He was captured and imprisoned by Japanese forces and sent to a hell ship that brought prisoners of war to Yokohama, Japan. Walter "Pinch" Kwiecinski was the last Sargeant to fire the last gun. They managed a direct hit on a Japanese landing craft. but the battle of Corregidor was lost. He also became a POW and was shipped off along with the others.

*Group photo by Annie Grace Nicandro Obeya

The next stop was at Battery Hearn which sits on a high promontory on the Topside. The two guns could do a 360 degree turn on that elevation ready to fire at invading ships at any time.Unfortunately, because both Smith Guns had a circular base that served as perfect bulls eye target, both fell easily from airborne fire by Japanese Pilots. Bombs decommissioned these guns that stood no chance. Heavy bombardment caused an explosion in the battery and the underground armory. Battery Hearn is named after Brig. Gen. Clint C. Hearn who commanded the Harbor defenses of Manila Bay and Subic in 1919.

the Lighthouse

The next stop was the Topside. We were deposited at the Light house area where we were allowed to meander along the small stores and souvenir shops. The light house is the second oldest light house built in the country (the oldest being the farola in Tondo, Manila) dating back to 1853 after the recommendation of Governor Pascual Enrile de Alcedo. It directed ships towards the entrance of Manila Bay guiding said ships to the Port of Manila. By the time the Americans settled in the country the light house had fallen into neglect and disrepair. A directive to improve the system had been put into effect around 1903 with the newly established Bureau of Coast Guard and Coast Guard. They added three more buildings flanking the lighthouse that served as the quarters for the light house operators, a kitchen and latrines. By 1908, Corregidor Island became a military installation that was known as Fort Mills.

the Peace Dome

A short walk down a cemented path brought us to a series of buildings that formed the main complex of Corregidor Island. I immediately proceeded to the Peace Dome that immortalized the fallen from WWII. At exactly 12 noon, the sunlight pierces through the dome and lights up the center of the circular marble altar. further down the walk is a series of marble panels that detail the  campaigns the Americans fought along with the Filipinos and other nationalities in the Pacific. The fighting in the island was one of the most intense in the world and Filipino and American resistance against the Japanese was so concentrated, it delayed the further progress of the Japanese forces to the rest of Southeast Asia and Australia for another four to six months.

the Eternal Flame of Freedom

Obligatory photos were taken at the Eternal Flame of Freedom art installation overlooking the ocean on the south side. The twelve meter structure made of Corten Steel was designed by artist Aritides Dimetrios and is supposed to symbolize the struggles of Americans and Filipinos and the ideals for freedom for future generations. Solar lamps illuminate the installation at night.

Arlene Cejar posing for a rear view of Cine Corregidor 

Retracing our steps on the right side, one sees the rear part of Cine Corregidor. The last movie screened on the cinema before its destruction was Gone With The Wind and across it is the Pacific War Memorial Museum. The museum is a veritable treasure trove of  war memorabilia: found objects, war medals, guns and ammunition, old photos of an era that espoused courage and freedom. It was a very moving experience. The last time I felt that way was when I went to Hiroshima Peace Dome and Museum. The experience that devastated Japan after the American retaliation and forced them to surrender to the Americans.

Mile Long Barracks

The ruins of the Mile Long Barracks complex still stands as imposing as ever. The three storey structure was said to house the soldiers on the Topside of the island. Mc Arthur was believed to have had his office in the edifice as well as his quarters here. Constructed to be hurricane proof, the former barracks was believed to be only a third of a mile long. However, the soldiers would walk its three floors and that equaled 1,520 feet. Ergo, the monicker stuck. 

Erlie Querubin on the steps of the Bachelor Officers Quarters

The parade grounds and nine hole golf course was in this level fronting the the cinema and the Bachelor Officers Quarters. along the pathways are glorious trees and greenery and a smattering of  memorials to the bold servicemen who gave up their lives in pursuit of freedom. This area is also where the tracks of the electric operated tramway ends on that portion of the island which winds down to Malinta Tunnel.

Titos N' Titas after brunch on a Sunday

Lorcha Dock

The coaster collected us and we went back down to the Bottomside area by the Lorcha Dock where Gen. Douglas McArthur left the island en route to Australia and back to the US to plan his return to the Philippines to liberate us from Japan. It was brunch when we got down to Mc Arthur Cafe. Not a bad idea to have something to eat. At P350.00/pax, one can have a fill of rice and meat and veggies and chicken with drinks to boot. Close by is the San Jose Church, a quaint little church slightly hidden by lush greenery and lots of trees. Apparently, the church had been upgraded from its original wooden structure and is said to have served its spiritual purpose for the residents of Bgy. San Jose and soldiers in the area. The water in this area was clear but one can see traces of plastic and some discards perhaps brought in by the tides. My one regret was not being able to swim in the ocean owing to an early departure for Sangley Point slated at two p.m. Once we got back to the ship, the captain announced that departure was moved to four p.m. 

San Jose Church

I was nestled in my area of the ship so I had no compulsion to move and go back for a swim. We bided our time on board the ship. And then, the party began! The Philippine Navy Seabees is a band composed of enlisted men that just loves to play music. They entertained us with songs ranging from standards, Original Pilipino Music, Pinoy Rock, disco and folk. Their piece d' resistance was when someone requested for them to sing Bohemian Rhapsody by Queen.  Feigning unpreparedness at first, the supposedly hesitant members of the band broke out into the opening lyrics in a melodious harmony and went on to rock the stage with high pitched Freddy Mercury chorus of soloist and second voices. By the third set of songs, members of my group and a random group of women and even senior citizens were dancing the hot, sticky afternoon away, unmindful of the sweat and stifling heat.

The Philippine Navy Seabees

Before we knew it, the sun had started to set and the cool afternoon breeze started to flow. pretty soon we were docking at the pier of Sangley Point. We then proceeded to Chef Foo restaurant in Cavite City for a hot meal and then it was time to head home.

The guns are silent now... My journey was complete! 

I'd like to express my sincerest thanks to the local government of Cavite, the Philippine Navy,  the Cavite City Tourism Council, Bhel Asinas Galvez Esquierdo for laying down the ground work for three straight months without expecting anything in return, Mabelle Tenorio for arranging the logistics of transport and food, Ms Fenny who welcomed us into her cozy home, Ronel and Lea Caliboso for their van support and to the fun and endearing company of the other participants: Emman dela Pena, Wanda Ole of Iloilo and Bacolod, respectively; Dodi Escartin, Lin Deres, Corazon Victoria, Annie Grace Nicandro Obeya, Jorge Ferrer, Edwin de Guzman, Willy Bas, Allan Pardilla Martinez, Jezreel Gonzalez JR Nino Patao, Pie Burwell, Arlene Cejar, Tim Delez, Fritzie Ramos, Aisah Basuel, Ness Sembrero, Elisha Rico, Toppie Torres, Amy Cristobal, Emy Dulay, Deck Pantia, Dennis Roland S. Castanos, Mary Ann and Noel Panaligan, Febe Sevilla, Leah Amante Villapando, Erlie Querubin, Faviola Torres Hidalgo. This would not have been as much fun without you there...

UTE-GANDANG HAVEN: DE-STRESSING IN DINGALAN

panoramic view of the UTE-GANDANG HAVEN shoreline

If you ever need to de-stress, I just discovered a new spot to do it in. Dingalan, Aurora is the place to be! I would have to give credit to the Titos N' Titas group who tagged me along upon the invite of Atty. Toppie Torres, who is also a member of the Titos N' Titas facebook group. Hold on... it's not open to the public yet... they have barely done the finishing touches. Hopefully, by the time this blog entry gets out there in the cyber universe all the little details would have been put in place.

Those familiar with the topography of Aurora know for a fact that there are only a few stretches of white sand in the entire province. However, the Pacific has a lot of surprises in store for those who seek the ocean's curative powers. My main motive was to get out of Manila before the summer even starts. I got a head-start to summer at UTE-GANDANG HAVEN that's under the management of MAPOLCOM Incorporated, a corporation run by the Policarpio siblings. Nestled in the center of the cove of the Barangay Matawe shoreline, the two thousand square meter resort is still undergoing its final stages of construction. It is, however, already equipped with ten rooms fashioned from re-purposed container vans with built in double beds. Think Tiny House Nation and you get a pretty good picture.

Dingalan cove

UTE-GANDANG HAVEN takes its name from the parents of the Policarpio siblings. UTE is a diminutive for their dear departed father Eutoquio Policarpio while GANDANG refers to their mother Bernarda Torres Avendano. Our group met at the corner of Sen Gil Puyat and EDSA while the other group met at EDSA Centris. Another vehicle had all the necessary supplies and snacks. We headed north east past midnight and grateful for the easy flow of traffic towards our destination. The roads were pretty dark so we made a couple of miscues and had to make u-turns a couple of times. But we made it to UTE-GANDANG HAVEN at daybreak. What we thought would be a wet weekend eventually turned out for the better.

early morning mist in Dingalan, Aurora

Upon arrival, the resort was pelted with rain and the Sierra Madre mountains that frames the resort was covered in mist.  We had breakfast of steamed eggplant and okra, tomato-salted egg salad, hotdogs, paksiw (vinegar based fish stew, white rice and fish sauce and sunny-side eggs. The brewed coffee was strong and hot and a perfect foil for the cold easterly winds blowing that morning. By mid-day, the sun started to peek out of the gray clouds and that was the cue to don the swim shorts. The Titas in their Hawaiian inspired outfits took the 4x4 dune buggy for a spin as some of the other members tried to settle in in their accommodations. Pretty soon it was lunchtime.

Bhel Esquierdo Asinas at the wheel, Maria Lilibeth Benosa
backseat L-R:  Fritzie Ramos, Yohann Moises

Paksiw

Can seafood get any fresher? We had grilled tuna, seaweed salad (lato), edible fern salad (pako), grilled pork belly, baby squid in its own ink. Then the karaoke made its appearance! As some of the ladies started the singing some of us made our way to the beach. It was getting hot by now. I saw a few craggy rocks on the left side and made my way towards it to explore. There was also a cave by the rocks. The waves were churning like a washing machine. It may not be suitable for a leisurely swim but it would be perfect for surfing or body boarding. The resort also would be ideal for team-building activities, yearly planning activities for companies, weddings, conferences, events or just simply soul seaarching... I made my way towards the point where the waves break over the rocks and climbed up to the cave for a while for a few photos. then it was swim time. Well... I didn't swim! I stayed in between the rocks and waited for the waves to come rushing in after it breaks over the rocks. I was all alone in that spot! Nirvana!!!

moon's out at 3p.m.

By mid-afternoon, I started to make my way back to the resort so I had more time to choose a path avoiding the sharp coral and limestone strewn all over the beach. I even marveled at the moon that had shown itself by a little after three in the afternoon... and I have photos to prove it! It didn't take long before I had showered and changed and gotten ready for dinner. A boodle fight was set up for the evening meal. Again we had a variety of sea food starting off with huge crawfish (ulang), grilled yellow fin tuna, steamed rice, and baby squid in ink and we even had fresh coconut water straight off the nut. Dinner was an event in itself! the rest of the evening was spent in a huddle as we enjoyed the strong gusts of wind hitting the shoreline. It was as if the easterlies was lulling us to sleep.  We wrapped ourselves in our malongs (tubular cloth wraps) and made an effort to try to spend the night under the stars...I had actually drifted off to Lalaland, when a strong gust chilled my spine and I had to go back to my room.  Can't take the wind chill factor... and it's supposed to be the start of summer!

Woke up while it was still dark to find out I wasn't alone. There were other people who had been up early too. So I decided to do my morning prayers while waiting for daybreak. It was already Sunday! Little by little, the sun started to filter through the dark clouds and a glorious morning broke through. This was evidence of God's glorious creation! The clouds hung so low, it seemed one could reach out to touch it. The sun's golden rays spread out gradually to light up the cove. It was nearly time to leave. Brunch was steamed rice and fried fish and Spanish omelette and the surprise viand was left over tuna that was reconstituted into tuna sisig. I downed it with lots of water and started to load my stuff into the van. Can't help but be grateful for the kindness and generosity of our host Mr. Miguel  Policarpio. "Boss Mike" and his siblings were the most gracious hosts. Thank you!


We left UTE-GANDANG HAVEN to have lunch at the ancestral home of Atty. Toppie's forbearers. From Barangay Matawe, we stopped by the market for last minute souvenir shopping and to buy snacks. The fish was fresh off the sea and some species were so cheaply priced I was aghast that some fish species cost ten pesos per kilo. Ten pesos?!? We couldn't do without the obligatory group photos at the boundary markers some even taking turns for memorable selfies.

Don Isidoro Torres' ancestral home

The Torres cousins

Dingalan is so unbelievably close to the Torres ancestral home that we simply went through a few municipalities in Aurora and then the municipalities of Gapan, Jaen and finally to  view Gobernador Heneral Isidoro "Matanglawin" Torres' (of Malolos Bulacan) Antillean - style Bahay na Bato. The more than a century old home stands as a mute witness to waves of colonizers, wars and perhaps even natural calamities. Unfortunately, the house needs special attention and restoration as it has become quite precarious over a century. Time, weather and pollution can weaken certain areas of a storied home. But we marveled at the detailing of the exterior structure.They really should apply for a historical marker to highlight the historical significance of the property. The home is located at 300 Gallego Street, Poblacion, San Antonio, Nueva Ecija.  Atty. Toppie also unfurled the  proverbial "welcome mat" with a late lunch of spaghetti and puto (rice cake) at cuchinta (brown gelatinous cakes with shredded coconut) and soda. Then it was time to bid goodbye to the Torres clan who had gone out of their way to welcome us. We were even invited to the town fiesta on the first week of January; St. Anthony's feast day.

Daybreak at Dingalan photo by Tim Delez*

Finally, we decided to have an early dinner at Arki's Grill in San Miguel, Bulacan. It's a nondescript cafe that serves great food at affordable prices. A solo serving of Samgyupsal would set one back at P290.00! I'm glad I opted out of that as I was still pretty full at the time. I decided to try their seafood pasta and a lemon cucumber cooler. The pasta came in a size-able serving with garlic cooked the right way and the seafood tender and not overcooked. The pasta was swimming in butter so we had to request for bread slices to eat a la scarpetta ("the shoe") in which the bread is used to scrape off the little bits and the oleo off the plate. By the end of my meal my plate looked like it had been washed clean. That was really good! Those who ordered the samgyupsal had to doggie bag their meal. Obviously, they couldn't finish the whole lot.  Some of us shared an order of Shabu- shabu. The rest ordered Clubhouse sandwiches and smoothies. It was getting dark so we bid our goodbyes at Arki's Grill so the vans could go separate ways to their pick up points. 

L-R Front row: Corazon Victoria, Bhel Esquierdo Asinas, Maria Lilibeth Benosa, Locel AnnTumlos, Annie  Obeya
L-R Back row: Willy Bas, Miguel and Lourdes Legaspi, Del Nuqui, Arlene Arguel Cejar, myself, Mabelle Tenorio
at Arki's Grill

Seafood Pasta and lemon cucumber cooler at Arki's Grill

We all were pretty sated with food and good camaraderie to make a promise to do it again. Dingalan, after all is not too far from Manila. A four to five hour drive from Manila is all it takes. If you have to go by public transport, there are buses that leave the 5th Ave. depot in Caloocan that goes directly to Dingalan. Or one may opt to ride a bus to Cabanatuan City and transfer to a Dingalan bound bus from there. The UTE-GANDANG HAVEN staff will be more than willing to answer your queries. They are courteous and friendly and more than willing to provide our smallest needs. You may have to book in advance as this early before we left the resort, families in their vans and jeepneys  were driving up to the resort to get to the beach. Or you may check out their Facebook page and get your messages across. 

Yours truly. photo by Maria Lilibeth Benosa*

Thank you, Atty. Toppie Torres made our stay so delightful, it was difficult to leave. And thank you Titos N' Titas for for a week-end well spent!

L-R: Miguel and Lourdes Legaspi, Jorge Ferrer, Willy Bas, Locel Ann Tumlos, Pheeyah Salones, Arlene Arguel Cejar, Lea Mina Caliboso, Del Nuqui, Toppie Torres, myself (partly hidden), Amy Cristobal, Fritzie Ramos, Lilibeth Benosa, Yohan Moises, Corazon Victoria, Bhel Esquierdo Asinas, MabelleTenorio, Edwin de Guzman, Allan Pardilla Martinez, Annie Grace Nicandro Obeya

PALACIO DE MEMORIA (Part II)

The Titos N Titas: L-R, Ferdi Bolislis, Pheeyah Salones, Tim Delez
Arlene Cejar, Myself, Bhel Asinas
Mabelle Tenorio, Lilibeth Benosa, Dodi Escartin
Febe Sevilla, Leah Caliboso, Del Nuqui, Pie Burwell
Dennis Roland Castanos, Yohann Moises, Fritzie Ramos, Amy Cristobal

This visit was planned by the Titos N Titas of Manila... We call ourselves that for no apparent reason except for the fact that we like visiting interesting areas that catch our fancy.  Annie Grace Nicandro Obeya made the arrangements for our tour of the mansion. So on top of that we decided to make a whole day of it visiting Baclaran Church, St. Andrew Church, St. Joseph Church, Sarao Jeepney, San Ezekiel Moreno Church. 

Shrine of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, Baclaran

Since the Casa de Memoria doesn't open till ten in the morning, and since it was a first Saturday of the month, the group made the Baclaran Church our first stop. The first order of the day was Mass in honor of Our Lady of Perpetual Help . Originally dedicated to St. Therese of Lisieux,  whose grotto is in the patio, the veneration of the saint was eventually given second importance when the image of Our Lady of Perpetual Help was ensconced in the main altar upon the request of the Ynchausti family of Malate as a condition of their donation of a  high altar in 1932. The icon form Germany made it's way to Baclaran  through Ireland and, Australia .  The devotion to the Lady was celebrated on a Wednesday at the new church designed by Arch. Cesar Concio and it caught on. The popularity of the Novena was strengthened when people observed the devotion regularly since. Then Archbishop of Krakow, Karol Cardinal Wojtyla celebrated the Eucharist when he made an unofficial visit to Baclaran in the 1970s and then made it part of his Apostolic visit in 1981 as  Pope John Paul II. On a secular note, during the snap elections in 1986 the thirty five tabulators who walked out of the Philippine International Convention Center claiming the election was being rigged sought refuge in Baclaran Church despite the  fact that Imelda Romualdez Marcos was a known supporter of the church.

Needing sustenance, our lunch was at a non-descript carinderia along Quirino Highway in Paranaque called Gracia's. The food was exceptionally cheap and very tasty. I opted to order cantina style as I couldn't wait for them to cook my tapsilog. I ordered a bowl of monggo guisado (mung bean soup) and okoy na alamang (shrimp fry fritters). The combination was perfect! The fritter was really fresh and one could taste the briny shrimp that was crunchy and savory. The soup was hearty and thick. All that with a cup of rice an a small bottle of soda set me back around seventy pesos. Not bad at all!

We then motored to St. Andrew Church which wasn't too far. The church of St. Andrew is one of the oldest churches in Manila dating back to 11 May, 1580. Established in an area known then as Palanyag ( a derivative of the Filipino term Paglalayag meaning to set sail). It was a small fishing village of a few houses which were clumped along the Paranaque river and Manila Bay. Agustinian priest Fr, Juan de Orto was tasked with spreading the word of God in the area which he started doing around 1578. By 1580, they community had become a visita where Fr. Diego de Espinal had built a mission house and appointed as its superior. Being a fishing village, the community was dedicated to St. Andrew who was the patron of fishermen. The parish thrived under the Patronato Real in which King Felipe II provided 200 pesos and 200 bushels of rice to the religious in the area periodically because the mission had no funds. By August 10, 1625 the shrine to honor the Nstra. Sra, del Buen Suceso. The Chinese Pirate Koxinga threatened to invade Manila in 1625. Gov. Manrique de Lara had all the churches outside Manila demolished in order to fortify the city. St. Andrew was not spared. In 1762, when the British conquered Manila, Fr. Eusebio Polo and Fr. Manuel de Sto. Tomas Garcia were exiled in Goa, India..Eventually, the church was rebuilt and declared a shrine. Some of the visitas in and around the area like Sta. Monica and San Dionisio are built facing the Cathedral.

St. Andrew Cathedral

The next site we visited was the St. Joseph Church. Arguably, the most photographed church during the Christmas season, St. Joseph is also the home of the world famous Bamboo Organ. Built under the initiative of Fr. Diego Cera, O.S.A, the church is done in the Philippine earthquake baroque style from 1797 - 1819. The adjacent convent, now a museum, is done in the manner of a Spanish Antillan house. Damaged by strong earthquakes in 1828 and 1863, and wars from the British invasion and the Japanese occupation, the church was restored and structurally reinforced to its present condition. The church gets a lot of attention for its historic, aesthetic, cultural contributions. It is virtually impossible to talk about the St. Joseph church without at least viewing the Bamboo Organ.

St. Joseph Church

The Bamboo Organ

On our afternoon visit, our guide brought us into the church to listen to the pure tones that it produces. Fr. Diego Cera built the organ from 1816-1824. The organ has 1,031 pieces, 902 of which are bamboo pipes.  It was destroyed in the earthquake oh 1828 and laid unused until 1917. In 1972 , Johannes Klais Orgelbau won a contract to restore the organ in Bonn, Germany and by 1975, the organ  restoration was completed and the Bamboo Organ Festival was celebrated since. That merited a trip up to the choir loft to view the organ's inner mechanisms that ingeniously have been partially encased in glass so one can see how it operates. A go-see of the museum revealed that the cost of restoration during the 1970s at approximately P1.5M. It was money well spent, if you ask me.

Bamboo Organ pipes

Bhel Asinas touring us around her high school campus

Tita Bhel Asinas took us on a sentimental tour of her high school, St. James. We were allowed into the campus to see the still existing Spanish era conventos and campus plus the "improvements" made that included new school buildings and gym that brought back many funny stories to tell. Then we were off to Sarao Motors to see how the iconic mode of transport - the Jeepney is constructed. It also offered us a glimpse of  history since the time the jeeps were conceptualized and produced to its evolution up to the present. I am of an age when the jeepney fare for kids was ten centavos. The regular fare at the moment is nine pesos... that's inflation for you, folks! From war transport, our beloved jeeps are now subject to high technology. E-jeepneys are now in vogue as a concession to environment friendly practices.

Ness Sembrero and Piolo Panaligan at the Sarao Jeepney factory

San Exequiel Moreno Church

Finally, we visited San Exequiel Moreno Church on the outskirts of Las Pinas along the C5 route. San Exequiel was born in  Alfaro, La Rioja, Spain on the 9th of April, 1898. Twenty years later, on September 22, 1868 he took his vows in Navarra, Spain.  By the 10th of February,  1848 San Exequiel Moreno was sent to Intramuros, Manila where he stayed at the San Nicolas convent, a.k.a Recoletos. By mid 1870 he was sent off to Jaro, Iloilo.  He was also sent off to Palawan , Mindoro and Las Pinas His religious zeal and love for the poor are traits endeared him to his parishioners. He stood by their sickbed to minister to them and shared personal funds to provide for their needs in times of calamity. As proof of fact, the parishioners petitioned for his continued stay in Las Pinas when they learned he was to be assigned to Sto. Tomas, Batangas.  He was also assigned to the parish in Sta. Cruz, Manila and Imus, Cavite. Subsequent postings merited petitions for the suspension of his transfer, but St. Exequiel Moreno always obeyed the orders of his superiors. This paved the way for his return to Spain and then he was assigned to Colombia. In mid 1905, he was diagnosed with cancer of the palate and retired to spend his days in Monteagudo, Spain. On August 19, 1906, San Exequiel Moreno succumbed to his illness. His remains were exhumed in 1915 and 1975 and found to be incorrupt. The church dedicated to him is spanking new, reminiscent of  Neo Romanesque design on a massive scale. Everything was an obvious match to the new development in the area. I particularly liked the relic of St. Exequiel Moreno displayed near the left transept of the altar.  I'd give it a few more years to display more character. I even climbed up the choir loft to view the shiny  pipe organ that's a definite feature of the church.

San Exequiel Moreno relic

By sundown all of us had boarded our way to the vans headed for Manila. That was epic!