Dalawa'ng Bahay

L-R: Pheeyah Salones, Mercy Imbuido Nebria, Vica Tigno, Addel De Dios Lapira, Presy Vivar, Ofie Palma, Ferdi Bolislis and myself at the back

I was cordially invited by two friends on the first weekend of May for breakfast and lunch at their homes. It was something I had looked forward to because it was not going to be any ordinary get to together. We had formed a clique of fun loving, heritage admiring, boisterous, gregarious friends composed of different people from different backgrounds. 

Breakfast spread at Bahay Makabayan

Weeks in advance, we received the invite from Maestro Jose Benigno Salvador (a.k.a. Jimmy Corpuz) and Mercy Imbuido Nebria (fondly called momshie Merce) to visit their homes in Marilao and Malolos, Bulacan respectively. Right after the Bacolod and Iloilo heritage tour we attended, Pheeyah Salones, Ferdi Bolislis and myself together with Vica Tigno, Ofie Poblete and Presy Vivar met up early at the Trinoma Parking Area where collective vans to the north wait for passengers. It didn't take long for the six of us to negotiate a reasonable fare to Marilao to visit the Bahay Makabayan which Jimmy Corpuz lovingly put together. We each paid P65.00 for our  UV Express fare with the driver's assurance that we were to be dropped off at the Bahay Makabayan's door step. We took a little time getting there as we didn't exactly know where it was. 

Puto

Karioka

Naturally, when maestro saw us, he welcomed us in and was it ever a welcome!!! The table was already partially laid out with some food that was all there for the tasting. I skipped breakfast that day knowing we were going to be treated to Bulacan's heritage cuisine. I was flabbergasted at the breakfast spread! As in any Filipino home, after the customary greetings of "good morning" (or evening) the guest is normally asked "kumain na ba kayo?" ( have you eaten?) But since we came there specifically for the food, Maestro Jimmy casually waved for us to take our seats at the table. Maestro Jimmy's new millenial mom dotingly served us other items coming from her kitchen. I mentioned millenial mom here because she's 72 and doesn't look a day over forty.

Suman

Puto Maril

Bulog

Now what comprises a typical Bulaqueno  breakfast? Well, for one, you can't escape the usual pan de sal and brewed coffee. Their pan de sal was densely rolled and weighed heftier than what we have in Manila. The bakery it came from has been operating since the 1930's. The itty bitty puto ( steamed rice flour cakes) from Marilao was soft and chewy while another bigger variant of puto had either slices of salted egg or slivers of cheese on top. I tried the  suman (cylindrical steamed rice wrapped in young banana leaves) sweet enough as is, it had a sauce of, get this... BULOG! Bulog is a mixture of condensed milk, dayap (local lime) and smashed jackfruit seeds that's boiled to soften, peeled and then coarsely chopped for added texture. It not so much as crunchy as it is nutty with the consistency of macadamia nuts. I relished the salty taste of queso'ng puti (carabao's milk fresh cottage cheese) and the pan de sal  over steaming hot coffee with cream. What a perfect combination!

Carabao's milk

Plump duhat that I mixed with carabao milk

I also had Karioka (gelatinous sticky rice deep fried to a crispy exterior with the inside staying soft and chewy). It had just the right sweetness and consistency the crunchy part tasting like a caramelized soccarat coating. A brilliant combination I just had to try was the duhat ( a purple endemic fruit) mashed with some fresh carabao's milk. It was unusually tasty. If you've never tried duhat, when it is ripe it has a sweet taste and a little mushy mouthfeel as you eat the flesh of the fruit but having too much of it has a bitter sticky mouthfeel when eaten. The carabao's milk get's rid of that sappy, sticky after taste when you've eaten too much of it. Dessert was kusilba of Kaong, Nata de Coco and langka. Sweet syrup laden jackfruit , coconut jelly (nata de coco) and kaong (sweet palm fruit). 

plows and tillers on the background at Bahay Makabayan

We had our fill and then moved to a later addition of the house to Bahay Makabayan which is sitting over the garage area of Jimmy's home. He has a collection of memorabilia from old magazines, soda bottles, books, artwork and brochures that were culled over the span of his career. It seems that the collection has been assigned different areas in the small addition. Not a single item is out of place. The collection interestingly delves on Bulacan arts and culture. Incidentally, Jimmy is or was  the director of Bulacan heritage studies at the Bulacan State University, ergo the monicker Maestro. The house has been featured in various art and culture shows and magazine shows like rated K. Each item on his collection has a story to tell. Plans are afoot for extending the Bahay Makabayan for Jimmy's ever-growing collection. amid the laughter and the photo ops we had to bid our leave as Jimmy was expecting another set of guests to his home for lunch so he showed us ho to get to Mercy's area by public transport.

Eggplant salad and salted egg halves

We went to the Marilao Public Market so we could take the jeepney to Malolos. The fare was ten or twelve pesos for a short trip to the outskirts of Malolos as Merce instructed us to get to the crossing and alight there which we did. Apparently, Merce's home is inside the gated community right smack along the main highway and in a few minutes she was greeting us and showing us the way inside the village. We were ushered out onto the patio of her home where tents were set up for shade and  tables and chairs were set-up for alfresco lunch. When your with a small group like this, don't be misled into thinking it's going to be a quiet affair. Not ever!

Bagoong rice and grilled tilapia

Funny stories and jokes were being bandied about during the conversation. Some of them were off color. Some were quite demure. All of them were funny. We started to get ready for lunch and one by one the dishes started coming out from Merce's kitchen. We prayed for thanks and praise and then attacked the food! There was a bowl of  red, plump macopa which I totally ignored. I don't eat it, anyway. I started with a fresh salad of pechay and shaved veggies like squash and carrots with a slight drizzle of  vinaigrette that was really restaurant quality. I had a second helping of course. And then as the lunch was getting more animated, who should arrive but dear amigo Addel de Dios Lapira? He was expected to be at Bahay Makabayan with us but didn't show up. It was, indeed, a pleasant surprise that he followed us to Merce's house. Right then, our conversation went totally immodest. Laughter induces one to eat more, I think.

Pansit with anato seed oil

Bowls of Bagoong rice and Tinola with native chicken was served. I could never eat a meal without rice so this was totally welcome. There was a variant of Pansit Bihon that was cooked with anato seed oil. I thought it was of the Malabon variety but I was totally surprised. It was very tasty with a different flavor profile as I could taste the fresh chives on it.  I was just really happy feasting on the grilled Tilapia that I paired with roasted eggplant salad with shrimp paste and onions and salted egg halves . Everything I tasted was so totally delicious. Take note, these are dishes that are not traditionally served for special occasions but  for a gathering of  foodie friends like us, this was indeed special! For dessert, I tried Merce's Turon Camote with a drizzle of caramel. What makes it different is that the filling is not the traditional sweetened banana slices but mashed sweet potato. I baked a loaf of Banana chocolate bread and made a caramel glaze to go with it. It was served for postre as well. We had a short sharing to end the gathering whilst reading some verses to make the gathering more meaningful and had loads of photo ops and coffee to prevent us from going groggy after so much food.

Merce's Turon Camote

Interestingly the way back to Manila was faster. we crossed the main highway and took a van to Trinoma in Quezon City and I took the MRT and LRT to get home. This was just too hilarious a gathering... I now wonder... would there be a part II?

My chocolate banana bread with caramel glaze

BARONS OF BACOLOD AND ILOILO (4/4)

Old Capitolyo

The 28th of April, 2017 was our fourth day of our Bacolod and Iloilo  Advocates for Heritage  Preseervation tour and this being our last day, we wouldn't let it pass without enjoying the sites that Iloilo offers. If you think other areas have a monopoly on heritage buildings, you have another think coming. I wised up after doing the tour without having breakfast the day before. We got up early to have a light meal. The meeting spot was at the Old  IloiloProvincial Capitol formerly known as the Casa Real building which has now been converted into a multi purpose use building. A spanking new Iloilo Provincial Capitol Building has been built behind the old one. It was easy to navigate through the city as the rendezvous point is located right across the Arroyo Fountain that diverts the vehicles to different parts of the city. The Arroyo Fountain is simple in design with four caryatid figures in diaphanous robes of Greco-Roman style. The fountain is named in honor of former Sen. Jose Ma. Arroyo, who happens to be the grandfather of the former first gentleman, Mike Arroyo.  We started out with the tour when all the participants had checked in for the last tour.

Our City Tour was slightly altered in order to maximize the sites to be visited for the participants who had flights back to Manila in the morning and after lunch. It was Roy Gatpatan who was again on duty for our bus tour. I thought it was a great opportunity for me to enjoy his humorous punchlines. This time, The organizers thought it best  for us to experience a staple meal of Ilonggos for breakfast. The bus stopped at the La Paz Public Market and we disembarked for a hearty meal of La Paz Batchoy and also Madge Cafe's local brew.We navigated around the stalls and alleyways of the market until we reached the carinderia area.  I'm glad I had breakfast ahead of everyone! The stalls were full of customers on their way to work for the day. Breakfast is, after all, the most important meal for the day. 

Madge Cafe

What's so special about La Paz Bachoy, you ask? It's a bowl of beefy noodle goodness that's good for any time of the day. The broth is salty, meaty and flavored with copious amounts of fried garlic, chives, slices of liver, slivers of boiled eggs, pork fat and chunks of beef falling off its bone and crushed chicharon. Just describing it makes my mouth water! Meanwhile, the local version of Starbucks is Madge Cafe. They have different strengths of coffee depending on how strong you want your cuppa. They also serve coffee iced and in different preparations. This morning that we visited Madge Cafe, it was full at seven a.m.! We congregated in one table and made do by borrowing chairs from other customers. In this cafe, one has to line up to have your order filled and then you wait for it to be served. We were having so much fun taking selfies and we-fies of the establishment people were becoming curious at the very least because we were mostly in yellow tees. We were getting curious glances from the other diners there. Across Madge Cafe was a smoothie shop whose come-on was an acoustic duo dishing out reggae tunes.So there was so much going on in the area to perk everyone up aside form the local delicacies of puto, bandi, pinasugbo, piayaya and what not. Knowing everyone had eaten the fill, we all boarded the bus and made our way for the rest of the city.

Lopez-Vito heritage house

There was so much to see, really. Familiar names of prominent families peppered the commentaries as we viewed different styles of heritage houses: Antillean, bahay-na-bato, neo colonial, Spanish colonial, bavarian, swiss chalet would describe these styles of architecture. The family names of sugar barons kept ringing in our ears as we passed palatial homes on the bus: Lopez, Locsin, Lacson, Lizares, Ledesma, Lopez-Vito, Araneta, Montinola, Sarabia,  Hofilena, Pison and the list goes on. It doesn't matter that the homes are beside decrepit, decaying neighborhoods or blooming new development. The houses remain as elegant reminders of Iloilo's genteel past. 

Nelly's Garden

Nelly's Garden in Iloilo City would have been our first site visit for the day. Unfortunately, it was a weekend which means the house is usually reserved for its occupants. Sadly no visit was allowed for this day. It doesn't mean we couldn't admire the home from our bus, right? We parked a few minutes along the road so we could take obligatory photos of this lovely home. Nelly's Garden was built in 1928 by Don Vicente Lopez  who was married to Dona Elena Hofilena. The property was named after their eldest daughter Nelly Lopez y Hofilena. The property sits on a four hectare lot and is approximately a kilometer away from the Jaro Cathedral. The story goes that the couple decided to move away from the cathedral to a quieter area. Apparently the Spanish canons that were exploding on special occasions bothered the couple. The house was nearly burned to the ground in WWII when guerrillas wanted to burn down the mansions to prevent the Japanese from using them as headquarters. The mansion was spared from destruction when the Japanese retaliated with guns blazing preventing the house from getting razed by fire. The house is said to have precious paintings and objets' art which the Japanese appreciated. The Beaux Arts style mansion with its colonnaded front porch and fifteen foot high ceilings have welcomed diplomats and royalty in its cavernous halls, the likes of: Imelda Romualdez Marcos, Corazon Cojuangco Aquino, Gov. Gen Frank Murphy, Teddy Roosevelt Jr., Thailand's Prince Chupra were received here. Nelly's Garden is also now open for wedding receptions and events. 

Lizares Mansion

The Lizares Mansion is another heritage home that has been spared from destruction. Languishing in neglect for decades,  this palatial home was built in 1937  by Don Emiliano Lizares for his wife Dona Concepcion Gamboa his three sons and two daughters.  The  mansion has three floors, a basement and an attic. Done in a combination of Spanish and early American architectural style, it has  a wooden winding staircase and 59 wooden doors. The home was commandeered by the Japanese as their headquarters and purportedly used the basement to keep their tortured prisoners. At this time, the Lizares family had left for Pototan, Iloilo for their personal safety. After the war, the family returned to the mansion but their lives were never the same. Don Emilio died in 1950 and the rest of the family moved to Manila. The house was leased to a businessman who turned it into a casino. This was closed by the mayor who felt that gambling was corrupting the locals. It was then left to the care of  a certain Tio Doroy Finolan who kept the mansion intact. It was acquired by the Angelicum School in 1962. The  mansion was turned into a formation house for young Dominicans in 1963. By 1978, the property became the home of the Angelicum School in Iloilo. On our visit, we were allowed into the compound. Unfortunately since there was a formation going on for that weekend, we were not able to go inside the mansion. 

Casa Mariquit

Casa Mariquit is one of the oldest heritage homes in the Jaro district. Built by Fernando Lopez for his wife Maria Javellana Lopez. The more than a century old home is done in traditional Bahay-na-Bato style with a balcony on the facade of the second level framed by waist-high wrought iron scroll work. The lower level served as recibidor for guests and clients since the lower floor was used as a bank. A wide staircase welcomes guests into the caida which showcases memorabilia of the Lopez Family and its prominence in Philippine affairs. Fernando Lopez has the distinction of serving as Vice President of the Philippines for three terms: !949-1953, under  President Elpidio Quirino; 1965-1969 and 1969-1972 under President Ferdinand Marcos. He was also chairman of ABS-CBN from 1986 until his death in 1993. Portraits of the couple are displayed in the caida. Receptions with foreign dignitaries and royalty and official seals of the Office of the Vice-President are lovingly displayed. A Grandfather's clock with its melodious hourly chimes dominates a corner of the room. The large veranda can accommodate a large coterie of guests. the expansive sala with wide planks of hardwood floors  and groupings of seating evokes a long lost time of grand parties where conversation skills were paramount. The master's bedroom with its four poster bed actually has a trap door that leads to the vault. Near the  large kitchen is the formal dining room and a small oratorio with an adjacent room. Behind that is an azotea that leads to the servants quarters. We were fortunate on this visit to see the vault and the tunnel that was said to lead to the Jaro cathedral (now closed). The museum is now owned and operated by Robert Pena Puckett started restoration of the house and museum in 1993. He is the great grandson of Mariquit and is president of the Solar Electric Co. The solar panels on the roof of Casa Mariquit is his concession to modernity.

Jaro Cathedral

We then drove to the Jaro Cathedral  prior to lunch. the Jaro Cathedral is done in Gothic style and is the seat of the Jaro Archbishopric. Dedicated to Nstra. Sra. de la Candelaria, the church was established in 1826 by Fr. Bernardino Alisen. It was damaged in the great earthquake of Iloilo in July 13, 1824 and repaired by Fr. Jose Alvarez from 1833 to 1835. Graciano Lopez Jaena was baptized in the church in 1856. The present church was built upon the initiative of Archbishop Mariano Cuartero, O.P. , first Bishop of Jaro, in 1874. Again it was damaged during the Jan 15, 1948 earthquake and was reconstructed and restored by Archbishop Jose Ma. Cuenco. The belfry made of brick is separate from the church and situated right across the street. It was constructed under Fr. Juan Aguado and restored by Fr. Jose Alvarez from 1833-1835. It was ruined in 1948. 

Jaro Belfry

Our guide had a funny anecdote in which he says that people requesting for a partner should light a pink candle at the shrine as pink represent love. After a year, if their wish had still not been granted then they should return to the Jaro Cathedral and go up the belfry. After which they should light up a mosquito coil to prevent mosquitoes from biting them. 

Megaworld development

We drove around the new development in the city of  Iloilo marvelling at the large tract of land owned by certain Pison, a self-made millionaire whose business was the production of salt. At least 2,000 hectares of salt beds near the coastal area of Iloilo has been bought by real estate developers. New buildings for residential and recreational areas have sprung up in the area to rival posh environs in Metro-Manila. Finally, we reached the lunch venue. Tatoy's Manukan and Seafood started out as a small shack with three tables by the seashore at Villa de Arrevalo. Owned by Honorato Tiburan Espinosa (ergo, Tatoy's) who has parlayed his earnings into more restaurants. Fresh seafood and luscious juicy chicken inasal are his best sellers. That was exactly what we tried. We had calamares, lumpiand shanghai, tuna belly and shrimp with rice. Then Tita Dodi ordered their famous chicken inasal for us to experience. 

Sta. Barbara

Lunch over, I had to get my luggage from the bus so we could proceed to the airport to catch my flight for the afternoon. Only to find out en route to the airport that my flight had been delayed and that I was allowed to re-book my flight to a later schedule. Taking the cue, we had my flight back to Manila re-booked at nine in the evening. This gave me the opportunity to visit the  Santa Barbara Church in Sta. Barbara district. I was extremely grateful for the opportunity. Sta. Barbara is another jewel of Iloilo's heritage churches. Made of hewn sandstone and coralline limestone quarried from Alimondian, the huge blocks of stone were delivered by carabao-drawn carts to the area of Sta. Barbara. The church, though started in 1849 by Fr. Francisco Agueria,  was not completed after Fr. Mateo Rodriguez 1855-1873 continued construction and Fr. Calixto Fernandez completed it until 1878.  It was here where local hero Gen. Martin Delgado declared a military junta to fight the Spaniards on 17 November, 1898. Both church and convent were spared from destruction during the Philippine-American War, WWII and the earthquake of 1948. Sta. Barbara is the patron saint for policemen, artillery men  and soldiers. The church has a neo-classical facade with a semi-circular arched entryway with cut-away doors. Statued niches flank the entryway on each side. Coupled pilasters divide the main facade into three levels. The pediment has urn-like finials as decorative touch. The interior has a long knave with spacious transept has touches of restoration with some tiles introduced into the crown molding. 

Iloilo Golf Club

Fellow AHP member, Tita Dodi Escartin ushered us back into her car and drove us to , arguably, the oldest golf club in the country - the Iloilo Golf Club. We didn't have membership but were allowed to drive in with permission from the security. We went in to the club house and  walked into a mini museum on golf out at the back  where they have the veranda with Tony Chan's name on it. He is the father of Jose Mari Chan who was an esteemed member of the club. Manicured lawns and lots of polished wood on the structures smell old money. The kind that only sugar barons could afford to dispose of on their down time. It was late in the afternoon so we stopped by a coffee shop where we had fresh lumpia and soda and cake and coffee for some. After that Tita Dodi dropped us off at our hotel where we waited a little to get to the airport and catch our flight. 

Iloilo has a strong cultural anchor that goes well with its history. Its storied past regales us with unlimited trappings of wealth and power... Of privilege and pedigree... No matter how you look at it, it will show a great divide among the rich and the very, very rich. But what unifies its gentle people is the food and a knack for the sweet life... La Dolce Vita!

Elizalde Mansion

Thank you Tito Encarnacion, Emman dela Pena, Dodi Escartin Fines Sumerigido, Roy Gatpatan, Raymond Alunan, Cidni Mapa, Mr. Ramon Hofilena; the AHP participants, AHP Manila, AHP Bacolod, AHP Iloilo, AHP San Joaquin, the Tourism officers and staff of  Bacolod and Iloilo, the Mayors of the towns we visited, our coach captains

BARONS OF BACOLOD AND ILOILO (3/4)

The morning of the 27th of April was to be our first day of the heritage tour that would take us all over the province of Iloilo. The entire party was up early and by seven in the morning, people were arriving at the appointed  rendezvous to kick off the tour. We started milling around in the plaza of the San Jose de Placer Church in Iloilo City for a while as there was a Mass being held and it was improper to just barge in and take the obligatory photo documentation of this lovely church. Following the Spanish lay-out of the town the church is bounded by the Plaza Libertad and the municipal building. Across it would be the Freemason headquarters and the former Iloilo hotel with its graceful portico. Road improvement projects at the front of the church mar the view as there were heavy machinery parked in front of the Spanish style convento situated at the left of the church.

Started in 1873 by Fr. Mauricio Blanco, O.S.A., who also started the two rectangular belfries flanking  the church in 1893. The church was repaired by Fr. Manuel Diez in 1902. It was spared from destruction in WWII and was restored by Engineer Mariano Cacho of the Panay Electric Company. The church was again renovated in 1980-'82 by Agustinian priest Fr. Andres de Centina using Romblon marble on its transept, presbytery, main and side altar walls, and floors. A main feature is its altar gilded with 17,000 gold panels undertaken by Fr. Jesus Fernandez. It has three knaves and a transept marked with fluted columns in Corinthian style. The Byzantine church has a semicircular arched main entrance with  minor entrances on each side. Six Ionic columns support the twin belfries and a pediment with a statued niche on the tympanum. It also has semicircular arched windows and rose windows on its facade.

St. Joseph convento

They also house the image of the Nstra. Sra. del Rosario, an image found on the 29th of September,  1614 during the defense of Iloilo by  Corporal Diego de Quinones against the invading Dutch fleet headed by Admiral Georges Spillberg It was taken in a solemn procession to the church by Fathers Geronimo Alvarado and Juan de Morales.The Statue was damaged  in 1850 church fire and restored in Manila in 1873 and restored again in 1907 by Sra. Dna. Candelaria Soriano vda. de Cacho* ( A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Churches, Benjamin Locsin Layug, New Day Publishers, 2007)

We met our Iloilo guide as we were leaving the church and boarded the bus for our next destination. As it turns out, Roy Gatpatan is the cousin of my next door neighbor here in Manila. I've been making friends with close Manila connections, how cool is that? Roy Gatpatan was most entertaining with commentaries injected with humurous anecdotes and stories eliciting hearty laughter from us.

We first did a city tour going through Calle Real where heritage buildings stand side by side and still intact and in use. Graceful architecture still abounds in Iloilo City with the buildings' dates proudly displayed on their  unique facade. Deep inside I'm thinking, had Escolta not been bombed in WWII, it would have looked like Calle Real. We also went around the university belt of Iloilo where learning institutions have proudly produced  technocrats, political figures, health workers and seafarers. This prompted our guide to quip that "awareness of heritage has something to do with the literacy rate of a city." Once again, the laughter...

A lot of us missed breakfast for fear of missing the early call time, so it was a treat stopping by the Camina Balay nga Bato at a small sleepy district called Villa de Arrevalo. Originally known as La Villa Rica de Arrevalo the adjective has been dropped over the centuries. It is said that when the Queen Isabel II was deposed because of the Salic Law, the Vireinato (viceroyalty) was transferred to this location thus earning the title rich village. An obelisk at the plaza with a crown on its apex symbolizes the patronage from the queen.

We were met at the ground level by the current owner and resident of the heritage house, Luth Camina Avancena welcomed us and spoke of the house history. She is the 4th generation occupant of the home built on the support of 24 hardwood posts covering the entire floor area of the home. Built in 1865, the home is an elegant throw back of generations of family members that have introduced little changes over the years. Their main draw is an experience of sipping piping hot, thick chocolate from a baterol. The chocolate comes with crispy crackers or  rosquillos for dipping into the thick coco. To get a refill, one merely rings a small bell and the server comes to you with pewter pitcher of hot chocolate brew in hand. It harks back to the time when the dons and donas need not raise their voice to call house help. At the mere tinkling of a bell, they come running to fulfill your every whim.

We then proceeded to the San Joaquin Church, in San Joaquin where we were met by the officer in charge for tourism Ms Erlyn Alunan. The church of San Joaquin is a success story of restoration. Located 53.5 km west of Iloilo City, it sits on a plain overlooking the sea. The church is a declared National Treasure. It is constructed of  gleaming white coral rock quarried from the shores of Punta Maligting, Bgy. Igcadlum, Igbaras. Fr. Thomas Santaren, O.S.A. headed the construction of the church in 1869. The simple facade has three sections. The ground level has an arched main doorway with coupled pilasters dividing it in three sections. On each side of the entry way are statued niches. The choir loft level has two niches as well and a statued niche at the center. The triangular pediment has two sets of finials on the top. The unique feature of the church is its high bas relief of the Rendicion de Tetuan depicting the victory of the Spanish forces under Spanish General Leopoldo O'Donnell over the Moorish forces under Moorish Crown Prince Muley Abbas. The relief was done in red, blue and yellow mosaic carved in  stone blocks and mounted on the pediment.which was added halfway through the construction of the church by Fr. Santaren, Spanish Engineer Felipe Diaz and a Filipino (some say Chinese) carver.

We made a short stop to sample some of San Joaquin's delicacies at Do Doy's (AHP San Joaquin) residence and to admire his collection of old photos, shards of hand painted Florentine tiles, artwork of old churches. Then we proceeded to the Campo Santo of San Joaquin. Ms Erlyn regaled us with a history of the town's noble past. Some of the locals, Ms Erlyn included, trace their ancestry back to the ten Bornean Datus who fled Sultan Makatunaw's cruel reign during the Sri-Vijaya empire c. 1250 A.D. These ten Datus were:1. Datu Puti (the leader), 2. Datu Balensusa, 3.Datu Bangkaya, 4. Datu Dumalugdog, 5. Datu Dumangsil, 6. Datu Dumangsol, 7. Datu Lubay, 8. Datu Panduhinog, 9. Datu Paliburong, 10. Datu Sumakwel. Ms Erlyn is a direct descendant of Datu Paliburong. 

The Campo Santo of San Joaquin is built on a hillside with an imposing chapel right smack ini the center of the public cemetery. Located on the outskirts of the town, it was supposedly intended for the final resting place of victims of a cholera outbreak. Unfortunately, the cemetery has come under controversy quite recently. The pride of San Joaquin residents and also a National Treasure became the site of a treasure hunting spree that was spearheaded by the parish priest Nelson Silvella. Treasure hunters were caught red-handed while digging 60 feet under the mortuary chapel seeking gold in the dead of night. Witnesses and the caretaker (bribed by the priest) filed a complaint to the police who apprehended ten men involved in the crime. The priest has been relieved and is currently in hiding. Ms Erlyn made her leave from there and we back tracked towards Miagao for our lunch and to experience a World-Heritage site.

Lunch at Miagao Municipal Hall was sponsored by the local government. We were warmly welcomed at the town Hall and they were only too happy to have an AVP of the town's history and it's national treasure. at the lobby were samples of the local weave called Hablon. The town takes it name from the Miagus plant that grows abundant in the area. But more than a heavy lunch, I had a drink of water at a 7-11 building that blocks the view of the church from the road. Another photo bomber of a national treasure!

Maigao Church is an imposing building built like a fortress. There's good reason for this. The town, along with San Joaquin and Guimbal lie near the ocean. It was a favorite haunt of slave traders who would raid the town to capture locals and sell them off as slaves. Miagao in the third church built in the area on top of a hill called Tacas (escape). The first church was built in 1734 and burned to the ground by Moro raiders in 1741. The second one built by Fr. Fernando Camporredondo from 1744 to 1750 was also burned and looted by pirates in 1754. The existing one was built by Fr. Francisco Maximo Gonzalez in 1786 of huge stones quarried from Sitio Tubo (San Joaquin) and completed by maestro de obras from Igbaras in 1797. 

The elements have not been kind to Miagao Church but its construction has mostly weathered natural disasters and wars. In 1864, Agustinian priest, Fr. Agustin Escudero undertook restoration of the church, and in 1880 interiors were done by Fr. Jose Sacristan. In 1898 the church succumbed to fires and American War 1910. Damaged by an earthquake in 5 Jan 1948. Restored by Archbsp. Wenceslao Enojo in 1959. In 1962 Msgr. Leonardo Javillo and NHI chairman Esteban Ocampo did restoration as well. A marker was installed by National Historical Institute under Director Luis Montilla on 16 February 1963. 1 August 1973, Maigao was a declared land mark, and in 1994 it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Miagao is certainly the most beautiful of the World Heritage Churches in the country. It has four meter thick walls of sand stone. The facade has Filipino motif in high relief depicting the giant image of St. Christopher carrying the child Jesus on his shoulder.  Philippine flora dominates the  motif. A coconut tree serves as the support for St. Christopher flanked by fruit laden Guava and Papaya trees representing fertility. The lower portion has a semicircular arched entry  framed by two pillars. On each side of the entrance are statued niches. Sto. Tomas de Villanueva, the patron saint is in the central niche of the choir loft section with a heavily decorated frieze and the pediment has the high bas relief of of the Filipinized artwork reminiscent of the Aztec style design. Acanthus leaves are included in the decorative patterns of the design. The bell towers are asymmetrical with half circular buttresses. The left has four stories while the right has three. These were later additions during construction in 1839 by Father Francisco Perez. The pealing of the bells warned of invasion and pirate raids and the lower tower allowed for sound to travel farther inland as a warning to locals.

We sort of back-tracked our way from San Joaquin to Miagao and passed through Taytay Boni which is one of the last remaining Spanish bridges in the country. The bridge is remarkably well-preserved and kept from vandalism with a wrought iron fence around it. Built in 1854, the bridge stands as a testament to Spanish engineering. Bonifacio Neular is credited for designing the bridge which allows the overflow of water from the mountains to drain out to the ocean. The bridge is 35 meters long, 6.7 meters wide with 1 meter walls. Yellow sandstone called tablea is the main composite of the bridge which was de-commissioned in the 1960's when the new highway was built. The bridge lies on the outskirts between Miagao and Guimbal. Speaking of Guimbal, the town is known for its vanishing mansion. The story goes that on certain evenings a beautiful lady will hail a cab and direct the driver towards Guimbal. Once the mansion is in sight, the lady will disembark from the cab with directions for the driver to pass another route. When the driver turns around, the mansion is nowhere in sight. A marker with an effigy of a white lady and the tree where the mansion is supposed to be located marks the mystical spot.

Lazaro Ancestral House in Iloilo City was our next stop. Another Bahay na Bato, the house is notable as it was visited by no other than national hero Jose Rizal on his way from Dapitan to Manila. Apparently, the patriarch Don Raymundo Melliza was a classmate and close friend of Jose Rizal who served as a chief magistrate in Cuba and advised him about the Cuban settlement which Rizal wanted to move to in lieu of his imprisonment and eventual execution. The request he made was denied by the Spanish authorities and Rizal ended up walking to his execution. The house is now occupied and is our venue for merienda of a Pancit Molo and empanada. The house is expansive and has a big blow up of Jose Rizal in the caida. Unfortunately, i took much of my time taking stock of the photographs I had for the day and they ran out before I could experience it.

Relic of St. Anne

It was a short drive to Molo Church and the sun was beginning to set so I immediately made my way to the church dedicated to St. Anne. While taking photos, I  saw Mike Asinas who tagged me along to the old convento to take photos of their collection of antiques and to see the relic of St. Anne. Nothing beats the luster of old wood and I admired the items on display at the convento of Molo Cathedral. They have the ecclesiastical chair which Pope Paul IV used on his visit to this church. Incidentally, the second Filipino saint, San Pedro Calungsod, served in the church in his prime before he was martyred while evangelizing the local Chamorro indigenous people in Guam along with Jesuit saint Diego Luis de San Vitores.

Made of coral stone in 1831 under the supervision of Don Jose Manuel Locsin. The church withstood the bombing of WWII but the belfries were destroyed. It was restored after the war. It has five retablos and stained glass windows on its walls. The church is known for the images of 16 female saints that line the knave. The main facade is divided into three sections and arched main doorway flanked by coupled pillars. the upper segment has an arched stained glass window in the center and the windows on the belfry are arched as well. Rose windows are placed on top of the windows while a bas relief of Jesus is placed on top of the stained glass. The pediment has a niche with the statue of St. Anne. The third level of the belfries have finials and topped with turrets.

Across the plaza is the Yusay Mansion. Now, I personally left out the Consing name in deference to the wishes of a dear dear friend and mother figure who shall be left un-named. The Yusay mansion apparently was never owned by the Consing family. According to her, one of the Yusay daughters married into the Consing family and that he eventually became mayor of the town. They did live in the mansion during his term.  As part of his duties, the mayor would allow audience to his constituents who needed assistance in a myriad number of things. Not that he wasn't any good as a public official. From what I hear, he was indeed, an efficient mayor of Molo. But the name stuck. When they sold the mansion to SM Kultura, there was included a clause which prevents the mansion from being torn down. So the mansion was restored to its former glory. The second level was supposed to become a mini museum on the history of the property. That is yet to materialize.

Yusay Mansion

So after a long day spent practically jumping in and out of the bus, we were dropped off at the hotel to have our dinner anywhere we wanted. Our hotel was next door to its mall. We had dinner at a small restaurant called Chika-an where we sampled their version of  tuna sisig, chicken inasal and a veggie dish which i can no longer recall. The  dinner was alright... but the conversation and the laughter was simply superb!!!

BARONS OF BACOLOD AND ILOILO (2/4)

I woke up ahead of my alarm to the sound of chirping birds. Daylight was creeping in as I enjoyed my morning coffee in the cabin 4-D of Mambukal Resort. I just  stepped out to see the avian life amongst the trees when I remembered the evening commentary on the bus that there was a population of bats in the area. I was not disappointed. There were an inordinate amount of bats flying in to roost for the day. It was amazing to watch so I ran in again to fetch my camera and photograph them. I managed to take some snapshots of flying foxes and other species of bats. Apparently there are 4: golden mantled, common island, large flying fox and the endangered golden-crowned flying fox. I also took photos of surrounding areas  and checked out the restaurants for my breakfast. I was going to check out the falls when I bumped into the ladies who were also on their way to see it.

There are seven stops to the summit of the falls, the last one being the most spectacular. The trek was mild and the way was clearly marked out. There were too many photo ops along the way that when we reached the first stage of the falls, it was time to head back to base camp so we won't be late for the 8:30 a.m. call time. The cottage we stayed in was clean and well-ventilated. It had abundant water supply and the bathroom was neat and in working order.The sprawling complex has a total of 23.6 hectares and abundant wildlife to enjoy. Among the facilities are a buttterfly garden, hot mineral baths, a spa, zip line, boating lagoon, wall-climbing, pool, convention hall, canopy walk, villas, cottages and Ishiwata bath house. Mambukal Resort is the gateway to Mt. Kanlaon. I think a second visit is in order...

People have to remember that when they are part of a tour group, they are answerable for any delays they cause while on the trip. That should be taught to millenials. I go by the rule that if you're on time, you're already late! So we waited for more than half an hour to leave because three young men failed to wake up early and pack up ahead of call time. That further delayed our trip to the next stop thus affecting the schedule for the entire day.

We made a stop at Tan Juan Araneta house  in Bago City.  The home is now a general  museum run by the local government of Bago City. Famed as the home of General Araneta whose claim to fame is deluding the Spanish forces to surrender to him using only makeshift canons and 2 guns... that was a stroke of genius! He reclaimed the house for his  family  of twelve to live in until his death in 1924. The family was forced to abandon the house again with the arrival of the Japanese Kempeitai who used it as their headquarters. After WWII, the heirs no longer wanted to stay in the house and the local government made use of it at first as the Bago High School in 1947. By 1972, the Araneta family donated the property to the local government unit. By 1982 restoration had begun with the aid of the National Historical Institue. And in 1991 the museum was underway. It now has different sections from war memorabilia, home implements and furnishings, sugar production and an effigy of a babaylan (shaman).

Our next stop was at the Panaad Stadium in  Bacolod City. Apparently, we arrived a few days late for the Panaad Festival. Thank goodness! Otherwise we would not have been able to see the Kalamay sa Bacolod mini museum. The one stop museum  had a petite collection of memorabilia that deals with the production of sugar: its painstaking, labor-intensive production. It also has a section of dolls in indigenous attire. One was created by artist Solomon Saprid. Then we headed for lunch.

Eron's Cansi House is an unpretentious hole-in-the-wall restaurant that serves a variety of dishes for lunch fare. But since we replied to the query of what we wanted to eat... we wanted cansi for lunch. They brought us here because this was the best place to experience it. We ordered a few side dishes but the focus was the savory thick broth that came with bone marrow and fall off the bone meaty goodness of  cansi. The souring agent for the soup is an endemic ingredient called batwan. It's a green bulb that is boiled together with the thick broth and the bone-in leg and shank of beef. It's their Ilonggo version of sinigang including the gelatinous marrow that melts in your mouth. Honestly, if they didn't serve anything else,  the broth on the rice could save my lunch hunger pangs. So good!!

The Capitol of Negros Occidental is a neo-classic style building following Daniel Burnham's Beaux Art style that had been extended over the decades.  Corinthian columns  support a parapet that has two caryatid figures on each corner along the front colonnade. The facade faces a wading pool in the plaza that is bounded by Filipinized figures done by Guillermo Tolentino.  The provincial capitol tourism office is on the right wing annex of the building. The multi-purpose/social hall is on the second floor of the main building. 

Pressed for time due to our delayed schedule we were given  10 minutes to visit and document the San Sebastian Cathedral in Bacolod City. The church was originally a small chapel built in 1876. The present structure was built upon the initiative of Fr, Mauricio Ferrerro using Guimaras Island corral stone and inaugurated by Fr Manuel Cuenca in 1882.On the 23rd of June, 1933 it was made a cathedral. Msgr. Casimiro Lladoc repaired and improved the church in 1936. to mark the Cathedral's centenary, the church bells were brought down from the belfry and placed on the right side of the church patio in 1976.  Beside it is the Archbishop's Palace started in 1830 by Fr. Julian Gonzaga but was completed only in 1890. It was a refuge of Spanish military and civil officials during the revolution. It faces a small park with a Band Stand in the center. the church property line runs along the center of the park. The crown along the roof of the band stand has the names of  important classical composers. The band stand is adorned in classical black and white contrasting tiles. Fountains have suggestive sensual figures representing male and female genitalia.

By four in the afternoon we were at the port and ready to board a ferry to Iloilo.  Luckily the weather was cooperative and it was an hour and a half of smooth sailing from the Bacolod port to Iloilo. We saw Rocca Encantada but it was too far for any discernible photo from my camera. When we disembarked from the fast craft, the jeepney we rode in struck a bargain with us for a fifty peso/ pax fare from the port to our Go Hotel destination and another ride from the hotel to  our dinner at Kamalig at Atria Ayala. Dinner was superb as usual...I swear I must have gained 5 more pounds from eating on this trip. Tita Dodi Escartin joined us for dinner. She was in Iloilo attending to her father who was sick at the time.

Kamalig Restaurant at Atria Ayala (photo by Pheeyah Salones)

We were so full after dinner, we decided to burn off some calories with a stroll at the Esplanade along the mangroves of  the Iloilo river. The air was barely blowing and when it did, it was a warm night. Fitness enthusiasts were jogging or speed walking along the Esplanade.  It was also nearing the weekend so families were  strolling out at night.It's interesting to see new urban development in an old city but done right. Imagine doing an esplanade along the Pasig River... that would be a 10 mile marathon. Why can't the metropolis pool their resources together to build a jogging path like this?

Some members decided to end their walk at the Esplanade and took rides to their respective hotels. Tita Dodi left her car at Atria and we walked back with her. We then decided to have after dinner coffee at  Madge Cafe at Atria. The staff were friendly and informative. They knew their product and helped us decide what drinks to order. After the drinks, Tita Dodi decided to take us on a night tour of the city. It was a nice drive... no traffic! But it was either I was too tired or my glasses were dirty or that the surroundings were too dark. I could barely make out the palatial homes outlines against a dark street. After that, Tita Dodi dropped us off at our hotels to rest for the night.