Times have indeed changed! When I was a kid, Holy Week was a time of quiet reflection on the passion of Jesus Christ. While we were happy that summer vacation beckoned, the Holy Week was dreaded as there was a long period of boredom from Holy Monday to Easter. There were no radio stations on air, no TV stations broadcasting, no playing outside, no making noise, no running around, no bathing after 3p.m. on Good Friday, no malls opened, NOTHING! Only those who had family in the provinces left Manila for some rustic R&R.
Many years ago, a month before Holy Week, my travel plans would have been all set. Bags were prepared and packed including all the sunblock I needed and sets of swimwear were ordered and purchased for all the photo ops that were inevitably staged. There were at least 10 of us who planned the yearly Lenten trek to the beach until one by one friends left to reside in other countries.
Many years ago, a month before Holy Week, my travel plans would have been all set. Bags were prepared and packed including all the sunblock I needed and sets of swimwear were ordered and purchased for all the photo ops that were inevitably staged. There were at least 10 of us who planned the yearly Lenten trek to the beach until one by one friends left to reside in other countries.
When I got back from living in Los Angeles, I had grown more sedate and a few years older so I started staying in Manila during the Lenten season. At first it was paradise in Manila during the observance of Holy Week. Cars were few and far between. Traffic was nil. And it was calm and quiet... until recently.
I think residents in Manila started to catch on. A lot of them still take advantage of the lengthy holiday. Families with kids stlill end up going to the beaches or some cooler climes. This year, however, a lot of people opted to stay in Manila.
My Lenten observance this year was marred by mobs of people doing their own practices. I opted to partake of the Holy Week Tridium by attending Mass. On Holy Thursday, the washing of the feet by Jesus is traditionally re-enacted and the Chrism Mass is rendered more dramatic bolstered by the local parishes' theater groups.
Miraculous Medal interior |
As opposed to last year's visit of 14 churches, this year I went to half that number.The Altars of Repose themselves have become spectacles of their own. My first visit was at the Miraculous Medal along San Marcelino street in Ermita, Manila. Not as crowded as I thought... that's a good thing. And then it got progressively worse in some churches.
My next stop was at the Basilica Minore of the Black Nazarene in Quiapo. Mass had just concluded and the Blessed Sacrament had just been deposited into the Altar of Repose. The crowd was unexpectedly not as thick. At Sta. Cruz, where the Mass was still ongoing when we arrived, throngs of people prevented us from entering the church. Next option? Manila Cathedral!
Teeming with people, the Cathedral, recently re-opened in 9-April was dramatically lit on this summer night sky. Always, a marvel to behold, the Altar of Repose was a glimmering mosaic of gold tiles with the imposing image of Christ. Very tastefully done, I must say. In the same area is San Agustin Church. But in order to get there, we had to navigate two blocks of the rest of Manila's populace. The enterprising locals had merchandise lining the streets or under makeshift kiosks. It was bedlam in San Agustin. Their Altar of Repose was tastefully done. It evoked an old world charm that was not too ostentatious looking.
San Agustin |
Then we went to the Assumption Parish in Leveriza. Malate. It was solemn, not a lot of visitors to this little, unpretentious parish. Their altar was on a little corner of the knave with a red carpet leading to the pews. After this, we went to the Malate Church dedicated to Our Lady of Remedies. Still undergoing retro-fitting, the church had a small Altar of Repose on the right transept of the church. there was also a lot of human traffic in the patio where an outdoor via crucis was installed.
Malate Church |
Our final stop was at the chapel of St. Scholastica's College in Leon Guinto. As usual, it was a very simple set- up done by the sisters. A light trellis of bamboo slats woven with an assortment of white flowers that fit into one of the alcoves. Our religious obligation done, we just had to eat a pizza. By then we were famished.
St. Scholastica |
* photos taken from Edhel's Facebook album.
** for some reason, I could not upload my photos.
** for some reason, I could not upload my photos.