LOREN LOVES THE LOOM

On a recent tour assignment to the National Museum, I was pleasantly surprised to find that there has been some refurbishing and restoration/ renovation going on in both buildings. There have been  new additions to the museum's collection and some new items have been placed either on permanent loan as well as some special exhibits.

In this instance, I did like the temporary exhibit of the Hibla ng Lahing Filipino Gallery on the fourth floor of the Museum of the Filipino People. Credit goes to Senator Loren Legarda for putting up a worthy collection on the Abel Ilokana in celebration of Women's Month. Clearly, the venerable senator has an advocacy for promoting things Filipino. Her fashion sense and style prompts her to don indigenous fabrics adapted to contemporary designs. She makes it a point to use locally woven fabrics for her clothes in most, if not all of her official functions.

The  Abel Ilokana collection, sadly, will only last until the 30th of March. However, I feel that it's a creative way of highlighting the Filipino's long tradition of weaving. The Abel or Inabel is a type of sturdy cloth that has been part of the Ilocos region's way of life. It is the product of both tradition and function as the northerners tried to keep the art of weaving alive by passing on the knowledge and skill to the younger generation. The art was passed on from grandmother to daughter to granddaughter as most families kept looms in their households.

Formerly limited only to women, the art of weaving became a means not only to keep women modestly and stylishly dressed, it was also a source of wealth and income to support their families. The abel cloth was used not only for clothing but also for their homes as these were turned into table runners, blankets and even mosquito nets (depending on the fine quality of the weave and fibers). The men, nowadays have taken to weaving as well! As a matter of economics, the men have slowly infiltrated the art form once dominated by the Ilokanas. Their strength allows them to make tighter woven fabrics that are also stronger.

There were indeed times in my childhood when my grandmother would often remind us in the  old Filipino proverb; "kung maigsi ang kumot, matuto'ng bumaluktot!" It was also a reference to a simpler way of life to try adapt to the curve-balls that life throws at you! How apropos, considering she would order blankets from Ilocos.  Once banned from being exported to Spain, the inabel was considered a threat to the local Spanish weaving industry. Its sturdiness survived the gale force winds that moved the Spanish Galleons on their long voyage across the Pacific and so it was preferred and often used as sails. Of course, until now, those blankets from Ilocos are prized for their sturdiness. 

I'm happy that Sen. Legarda was able to showcase the fine art of weaving in the north. Nowadays, the abel or inabel has taken on new applications for its use. Glad they re-discovered it before it becomes a dying art...

THE LEGACY OF A PROUD PEOPLE

It is always a privilege for me to accept guiding duties to the Banaue Rice Terraces. Recently, I was up there with four Dutch guests who were so awed by this man-made wonder. I myself am speechless at the high level of planning and construction the Ifugaos undertook to build this heritage site. And so showing it off to tourists is always a treat.

Other Asian countries like Japan and Mongolia have their own versions of the rice terraces. Ours is different, though. Consider the following facts:

• The Banaue Rice Terraces are more than 2,000 years old.
• The Banaue Rice Terraces soars to a height of anywhere from 3,000 -5,000 feet above sea level
• It covers a total land area of 400 square kilometers
• If laid end to end, it will run halfway around the globe
• The Banaue Rice Terraces supports its own ecosystem

What strikes me as extra-ordinary is that there could not have been that many Ifugao settlers in the Philippines many years ago. What our ancestors achieved must have taken immense effort and intensive manual labor on their part to build these rice paddies on the slopes of the Cordilleras.

Even with the encroachment of the Spanish and American colonizers, the indigenous people of the Cordilleras remained true to their culture and their inner resolve to not be subjugated by foreign rulers. They were the incessant mosquito that kept bugging the Spanish colonizers. They would plague the Spanish troops and their commanders with raids that left some of their victims headless. They protected their gold mines and built the rice terraces for survival.

Even until now, as the younger generation prefer to seek jobs in urban centers, those locals left behind make the effort to repair the damaged portions. The Banaue Rice Terraces remains, to this day, a testament to a proud people.

Old World Charm

Casa Vellejo facade

I was up in Baguio City after having spent time in Banaue and Sagada. I was with Dutch guests and we had arrived on the tail end of the Panagbenga festival; Baguio's take on the Rose Bowl parade celebrating the city's profusion of flowers.

lobby shot

It was crowded and noisy. Traffic was rerouted. Roads were blocked. Live performances were aplenty on make-shift stages on Session Road. And it seemed half of Metro Manila's population joined in on the fun. We had to double back to find the road leading to the hotel.

fireplace at the lobby

But when we got there... aaahhhh! We were surrounded by a cocoon of genteel charm!

the grand staircase

Casa Vallejo is situated on the lower slopes of Upper Session Road right where the SM Mall is located. Strategic, yes... but what a sight spoiler that mall is! In any case, it was nice that even after some controversy, Casa Vallejo was not sold to private individuals who would have demolished the historied walls of this quaint hotel.

signage in wood

Built in 1909 in the American Colonial style, Casa Vallejo reminds one of the an old, much lived in, comfortable home where wooden floors are polished and wooden beams glow in the amber light of chandeliers. Formerly a hill station under the American regiime, not much has changed in its over a century of existence. The cavernous dining hall named Hill Station (what else?) serves updated Filipino dishes and  has a great picture window view of the hills down below... now a hodge-podge of various roofing material (sad, really.)

exposed wooden beams in the dining hall

It's a blessing that residents of Baguio took to protesting what would have been a crime to our national heritage - the demolition of Casa Vallejo! It's rooms evoke a homeyness that have an understated luxury. and the food ain't bad, either. So when you're up in Baguio for a summer get-away don't forget to make you reservations waaaay in advance. It's not that expensive and it's worth your hard-earned cash.

the Hill Station restaurant

SCOTTY'S CRIB

Scotty's home

Alright, call me a dinosaur... jurassic even! I don't care. I was in Sagada recently for a tour with some guests from the Netherlands and they were literally quite impressed with the grand vistas that the Cordilleras afforded them. But there is always one special spot in Sagada that will always be close to my heart.

a remembrance from the UP students and staff

Whenever I get the opportunity, I visit the usual tourist spots that the area has. The burial caves, the hanging coffins...these are all standard for visitors there. This time around I got to visit the home of my idol and former professor, William Henry Scott.

The library

Scotty, as he was fondly called by those who knew him, lived in Sagada among the proud peoples of the Cordillera mountain range. He was a very learned, erudite and scholarly researcher and professor who knew how to motivate his students to dig deeper as far as historical facts were concerned. He was my professor as I was pursuing a degree in History at the University of the Philippines, College of Arts and Sciences in Manila. Needless to say, Scotty was my favorite professor! He just brought out the best in his students. And so, I responded by getting A's in his exams. 

I was fortunate this time around to get into the home he left behind to his adopted son/companion, Miguel Talanay.  Mr Talanay lives in the A-frame house with his pet dogs and he now holds the position of treasurer for the cooperative store. He was gracious enough to let me take a peek into Scotty's crib. 

Living room shot

I was teary eyed when I walked into the library where Scotty once wrote his essays and his research papers. All of a sudden, memories of my days at the university came rushing back. We often kidded that Scotty had an uncanny resemblance to Albert Einstein. It ends there.  But his insights into the Cordillera culture and its people have left an indelible mark on his students of Philippine history.

Mr. Talanay in the living room

In hindsight, I think the stuff I learned from him are the things I remember most. I am a proud Filipino! It's strange... it was an American who taught me that!!!